trickedcarbine

Talk to Brian at Quality Powdercoat. He's been doing quite a bit of the metallics and annodized looking stuff.

That's a good thing. That keeps that pin inside from moving. Yours has been done inside as well? That would mean whoever went through that crank had more then half a clue. Let's just hope they did a good job of phasing it as well. What stroke is this thing? Hard to orient from the photo with out seeing the rod, but it could also be a plug if they took a crank apart to change the stroke.

50% more intake area. Equivalent of a third intake window. Piston goes up and pulls AFM straight through in to the cylinder right past the transfers as though it's not there creating additional crank case volume as though they are intake windows. All the while the secondary transfer does scavenge off the intake side Boyheson ports like normal, as well as when the piston is dropping it forces some volume back in to the transfer from the cylinder. (Edit:I see you touched on this part.^ )Internally his Boyhesons are pointed more at the ports he has machined in to the sleeve then upward in to the transfer. It took a lot of fine tuning to get it to not surge and fade and come back on. When he started doing them there were fellas not to stoked as they can be a cunt to get running right. There is definitely some port interference going on as the piston moves causing those extra intake windows to close and it starts to feed the transfers hard. It showed up as a goofy dip in the curve on dynos regardless of pipe/carb combos. Mine just took some compression and a fat pilot to needle transition. Made that easier to read.

Ahh, that's what I was thinking.

Houser makes those for banshees?!

NOOOO!

Haha, I have to agree!

Really? You sure about that? You keep speaking as though you got this figured out yet recently posted that you really haven't done much 2 stroke work let alone banshees. So come again those ports Jim did were about filling of the secondary transfers? Do you have one of these cylinders in your hand? And where are the numbers you're judging your assumption from?Really look at those ports. Look how high they are and re think what you think they are doing. My 12 old 12 port made almost 50 foot pounds before 9k and still made 84 hp at 9,600 with a decent over rev on shearers. Took some sorting out, but if that ain't promising on a motor with 192 exhaust I'd like to see what you're working on. Jim was a little quirky, but toward the end of his run he finally got those 12 ports to run the way he claimed. At least mine did/does. Not bashing, just trying to get a guy that claims to be a heavy thinker to think a little outside he box. My apologies if that sounded brash. Carry on.

No! Not gonna live long on 80+ Hp motors. Change the outers to Max Loads and then kick the shit out of it.

Send him your crank, get a refund, buy a HotRods. Or just send his back and offer to pay the difference. If they are really better he should be stoked to have another awesome crank laying around. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yahtzee!

The g115 rods have held up ok. But....

You can make it work. Just cut the stock tabs off the frame and make your own or zip tie the air box off the frame rails. Ain't gonna be pleasant or pretty.

I was being facetious about your experiment with solevent in the cases.

The 160 main is in the ball park but the spark plug will tell you if it's spot on or not. As for the idle, on the Keihin's you typically don't want more then 2.5 turns out. And if you find the bike feels blubbery and opening the air screw past the 2.5 turns doesn't fix it, you would be correct that it's overly rich. Drop one size at a time though. What pilots are in there now? Idle, just use the little black knobs on the slides to get it comfortably idling. Once it's close, use use the sync tool to get it perfect or feeler gauges to set the slides dead even if you don't have a sync tool.

I sense some fuckery is afoot. Were those cylinders indeed ported for a 4mil? Were they previously set up on a spacer plate or just a gasket with stepped domes?

Get pods, problem solved. There are other front half sections you can get for the air box and adaptors from the carb to new front section, but it's a considerable investment with out being a definite fix. If you're worried about mud/water, get some aluminum or stainless sheet metal and bend up a custom shroud that keeps all the funk out

So, did you ever do the research to figure out what you were doing wrong?

Oh, looks like you got that figured out..... At least post pics the next time it melts down.

^ that! But it is pretty Fuggin fast... I just realized that's Billit junk. Who built that combo?

Might as well have the whole thing out of the bike at this point. I'm stoked you were commited to making it right and not compromising.

Didn't you say the base gasket varied? Like jugs were on an angle? Best to measure both cylinder heights, both sides of the crank, and both deck heights. Justin will get you sorted out.

It you're winding out 5th & 6th, it may be worth having a dual pinguel pet cock and possibly bigger bowls. What brand 112? Lots of race fuels get weird colors instead of the age old chocolate tan you hear most folks refer to. But typically you can get like a cinnamon redish smoke ring.

Any one who asked for shipping info and hasn't PM'ed the details. Only a few more hours to get answers until Monday.