trickedcarbine

It appears we will need butthole pics of both of them in order to see which one really is the better.C'mon Rob, get to it....

Still think you fucked that up.... The new one is to pretty for mud. Lmao

There is a rhyme and reason to the needle/pilot transition, but no the needle has nothing to do with idle.

You are so all over the map with your approach. I was polite and even said I wasn't bashing you. You are the only one getting huffy because you were told what you are doing was wrong and now you wanna do this "I'm older then the young punk, so I must know more" thing. Get over your self. Your post was that of someone new to tuning, and had no real relevance to tuning a PJ carb properly. You then back it up with a story about how you build your own stuff in effort to turn your words to gospel. Fact is, I knew at 16 what you are just now starting to figure out, and I was putting info you needed, but for some reason you needed to act offended and get all defensive. At this point, I have nothing further to add as you are clearly 39 going on 13. I'm sorry I offered insight and will no longer continue any input. Remember guess and check can melt motors before you check. You may commence to doing it the hard way again.

That's so you get more strength on a lighter aluminum bar, but can still slide all the regular handlebar accessories back on.

Did you have both carb bowls off at the same time? If so they could of been switched. They are side specific. Slides are in the carbs with the cut away facing the back?

Oh shoot, should of said BLOW* out the ports.

Stock exhaust before the switch or something else aftermarket? And it ran good and clean? Try: Fresh plugs, check plug gap, check pick up gap, possibly back the pilot down to a 27.5 pilot. It should be close with a 30 in it though. Clean the carbs. Check that the pilot isn't all goobered up and plow out the ports with air and brake parts cleaner if you don't have a good parts washer.

I would start around 310 main. You will be richer as the temp climbs so in the summer you should be leaning it out a size or two. Definitely err on the side of caution when putting smaller jets in it. Keep an eye on the plugs and feel for the motor to run crisp or stuttery. Anything but a clean pull get out of the throttle slowly so you don't cut all the fuel abruptly and shut it down to check plugs.

What jets? Where is the air screw set at?

Especially once you're over 400cc's

I only picked it apart because of your comment about picking it apart. You know you need to be right so I coddled you a bit.

Weren't you from Michigan? One of Doc Fang's sled guys?

No. Do not buy any American Star. Might look good, but everything I've touched from them squeaks, creaks, crunches, and turns to rust/corrosion.

^ little rude.... But necassary.

Be careful with those jet kits. Most of them are suited for stock or stock with an exhaust and pod filters. So the kit may not be what you need. Also, most of the needles that come in those kits are kind of gimmicky. What is done to the motor and what are the jets in it currently?

Fire the motor and use throttle to idle the bike while you establish if it's rich or lean on the pilot. Make the proper jet change. Now set idle.... That simple. The main and needle changes you mentioned have nothing to getting the PJ's to idle. Not trying to bash you, but you are making a simple process sound way to complicated and your jets posted won't work for everyone. Also, if you are 9 turns out on the choke to idle that is usually an indicator that the pilot is a bit rich as your air screw settings are pretty much spot on. The PJ's can certainly be a pain in the ass, but with the right understanding of how they work and good tuning knowledge they can definitely be made to run decent.

^ that.

How are you trying to help people when your entire post is missing the actual info to set the idle on PJ's? They are simple yet finicky. Just turn the choke knob in all the way. Put a mark on it with a paint pen. Back it out 6 1/2 - 7 1/2 turns.

What info is stamped inside the intake floor?

Interesting

I was only curious, because if they were worth a damn they would already be telling you what I previously stated. Based on that alone, I'd say it's probably time to find a different "engine builder" to talk to when seeking advice.

Who's your friend?

That is simply the most contradicting bunch of parts bolted together. If you ride open terrain, I'd imagine you wand a strong mid-top set up? If so, ditch the 2/1 and get a second 35mm PWK. Maybe even a set of 28mm PWK's if you're wanting to keep it really snappy but that drag port would definitely work as intended with 35's. The Toomeys are quite mediocre. Your current Trinity pipes will out perform Toomeys easily. The Toomeys feel a bit lazy in comparison, and won't rev as nice as the Trinity stuff. If you are wanting to step up to the bigger "drag" in frame pipes, you have Rockets, CPI, Shearer, and Snipers. I'll just come out and say it, it's doubtful you have a motor moving enough heat/exhaust volume to take advantage of the snipers. They are great pipes, but they require CC's, and the ability to move lots of AFM. The smaller stock cylinder stuff has minimal testing with Snipers and results are marginal. They are meant for the bigger CP cylinders. The Rockets are ok, strong snap and pull, but they tend to feel a little flat up top. Not so fun when you're trying to crank a cross the dunes or field in 6th gear. The Shearers have a good reputation for performance, but the quality just keeps plummeting and getting more inconsistent with each set that hits my hands. They pull great from the mid range and just freight train till you're out of gear. The CPI's are bitchin. Quality construction and chrome. You can even get them unstamped and raw to save dough, but the performance is the same. They pull a bit earlier and sign off just a touch earlier then the Shearers and are very stout. The CPI's would also complement a smaller motor quite well.