wayfst

Used maybe 3-5 times. bought brand new this last summer from K&T performance in utah. paid 570 bucks. $450+ shipping takes them and the foot peg bracket to hold them. They go to ebay on sat.

Braxton---you need to fix this.

ditto, strong advice, let us know.

clean the pilot jets, that should cure it.

I use amoil saber mixed at 80:1 and like every other oil mentioned up here it does a great job in not letting the piston stick to the sides of the cylinder. Let's conscider this--- your main jet can only move X amount of fuel and oil mix, fuel is what cools the piston, not the oil, so if the mixture has more fuel and less oil moving through that jet, it stands to reason that your engine's internal components will run cooler. now before all the girls get their panties in a wad, I'm not saying anyone is wrong for their choice-----crap I can hear them bunch already. anyway, less oil-more fuel. there are some other points we could go into, but I know I'm going to be wiping noses for the next week over this.

when I went from the v-force 2 to the 3's. it changed my jetting, but mine leaned out, had to raise the needle one.

I don't know about warrior carbs, but most 4 stroke carbs will have accelerator pumps on them which will flood your bike every time you pin it. If you go with mik's go with the tm series. There is a ton of stuff to help dial them in. I live in Idaho, when I was messing around with those stock carbs it was 65-75 degrees at 3750 feet. Put some huge jets in there and find out if you can even go fat, if you can cool, jet down and be done. but I still say you can put 600's in there and it run lean. There is only one way to find out. Have a good day chief, let us know.

take two pieces of tape ( duct tape ) place one in the middle of each front tire-straight a cross from each other ( doesn't have to be perfect ) take a pen- place a vertical line on each piece of tape. move the tape to the back side by rolling the bike FOWARD- take the measurement( using the vertical line as points) with a tape measure. roll the bike FOWARD till the measuring points are in front- measure there. the difference is your toe setting. if the back is 24" and the front is 24 and a 1/8 the toe setting is 1/8 out. make your adjustments, roll the bike back and forth a few times- roll it FOWARD till the points are in the back- measure- roll it FOWARD- measure. Keep that up till you get it right. as far as how much, I set mine at 1/32 to 1/16 in, but everyone on here set it at 1/4 in or more. my goal is control with the least amount of resistence, but just in case you ever line up with me I prefer that you be snowplowing yourself right in to the sand, so 1/2" toed in sounds perfect!

you put the cars in the basement? what size of jets did you put in there? That's what I found, the stock carbs were good up to about 270-290 and then my top end would run aground, in this thread I started to think that maybe my elevation had something to do with it ( thicker air might pull more fuel ). If you put 450 + jets in there, and the stock carbs could move that much fuel, shee should have started sputtering like you just flipped your choke, but what you have sounds lean to me. as far as the carbs I like mik's, but most people here have pwk's, you'll find more help with those. take care, merry christmas!

heater hose

just take out upper bolt-knock out old bushings-tap in new ones. very easy. get new ones for alba. cheap

what do you need? a head?

hows the bearings in your crank, broken ring, broken piston could be alot of thing not related to jetting or timing.

I've got a set of v-force 2--let you have them for 120 beans. they have maybe 5 rides on them. upgraded to 3's. pm me let me know.

what did you find out lokar?

cool, that's the stuff we need. now the problem I face is that I don't wear them out or break them (much) but I burn them. I have a lockout and don't want stiffer springs so increased surface area is the answer. Jeff pm me the price for your clutch without springs if you would. thank you

Finally, some info! I thought about this also: I was wondering if the fiber material on the fiber plates would be wider, but how much wider? Like a few posts back, a thousandths of an inch isn't going to make that much difference. Ahhhh...and the mystery goes on.

californian dick

Well there was no " arguement" or "cat fight", thanks for making us sound like a couple of girls, we where just discussing a differing experience with stock carbs. I live at 4000 feet and couldn't get mine to go rich after having it ported. I still say the needle jet on stock carbs are to small for you aplacation, but it's simple to test, put the biggest frick'n jet you can get your hands on-big enough that you're sure that it will fall on its face coughing and sputtering-put it in and if it acts like it does right now I'm right and Banchetta owes me a beer. If it sputters and dies, Banchetta send me your paypal info and I'll buy the beer (just one, I'll just blame it on your luck). so go get a 580 and prove me right!

I'm not trying to get jeff to give up any secrets,but the question still remains, where does this "extra" surface area comes from? I don't care who makes them or where he gets them from, or how much his price is on them., I'm not looking for a short cut. If the fibers are made of diffrent stuff then ok, but the claim is more area, so where, dude, do I drag it behind my bike? The photo shows a plate that looks exactly the same as mine does. While I do not feel that I am asking for "secrets", I do feel that a consumer should be able to understand what one is purchasing. I don't want to get a boost bottle here. I think that Jeff is honest in his claims, I am not calling him a liar or calling into question the validity of his claim or anyone else's--I just want to know HOW as the photo and thus far explanations have not expanded on this area question.

cool, I'm out'a here.

I think I lost myself I was looking on the net, the only powder coating that would take that kind of heat is called stove-bright high temp powder and it's good to 1200 degrees. If I was to hold it open long enough to smoke that stuff I'm sure I would have destoyed something. some people have all the luck.

ok, everytime I had to go over 270 with a stock carb on any banshee it would end up like this poor guy here who started this thread. so I say this, lets have lokar go get 400's throw them in-hold it open for 1/4 mile- if it floods out I'll pay for the jets-if it burns down you pay for the jets. what do'ya say lokar?! what the hell does lokar mean anyway?

You are telling me that a stock carb with a stock needle will move a 380 jet worth of fuel!?

This is what I'm say'n.