odaen

That was a very very impressive show of determination by a defense, Urlacher in particular.

clicky the link in my sig... http://www.redline-racing.net

Will the 8 plate Hinson setup fit under the stock clutch cover? I always assumed that you had to run their modded cover to make room for the deeper basket.

Do I understand you correctly when you say you're gonna build a 16mm bike for the Oregon dunes? What's the point? A 4mm setup right is more than ample for anything on our coast really. Now, if you were gonna go to Glamis or Sand Mountain, where the big motors have some room to roam, I could understand a little more.

From henceforth, I shall refer to the aforementioned "duneable override" as the bigred350x tranny. What would you charge to do the machine work to my shift drum and cogs? You could probably turn some good dough with all of the equipment you have and your know how.

as long as the bike is in neutral

I'd just wire it up to the headlight side of things so that it's completely separate from your ignition.

Exactly. Those screws gotta be damn near all the way in before the round nose even comes close to making contact with the slide.

stick with your stock carbs

I think that was Jeffrey Ross, he f'n kills in all of those roasts. Hefner's roast was funnier though. Gilbert Godfried, that guy cleaned house that night.

Are you the guy that the SSR rigid chassis and billet cases is for?

That's the same setup he runs in his drag bike, so I'm sure he's got lots of tuning advice as well. Hope you're not use to the 250X power, because you're gonna have a real beast of a motor in that banshee. Good luck with it :beer:

Drain it, pick a brand and stick with it :beer:

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

It was a joke. Both seemed to be overhyped with little to no data to back up claims...

Tonto Goldstein, but my friends call me Bubba.

where's the love? ::

both of my lockups were mattoon covers, and my pegs cleared them fine. I did have to adjust the angle of the brake lever though using the adjustment on the master cylinder.

You guys and your negativity.... Read the disclaimer. "If you don't use 1dir G3 reeds with this product, gains may be minimal."

"We got it in stock, I GUARANTEE IT!"

I haven't slept for weeks in anticipation of this launch..........showered either, for that matter. :thumbsup:

Advancing the timing isn't all that straight-forward. It's like compression. If you raise the compression, you'll gain more low end torque, but too much compression, and it will kill your top-end performance. The same is true with timing. Here's a plot of my old 4mm cub motor on racing gas. The lowest HP curve is 4 degrees of timing. The middle curve is 8 degrees, I believe. You can see that significant gains were made everywhere except after the peak. If I had the HP vs Time curve, it's a better view to see how much faster the motor accelerates with respect to time. You can clearly see though, that once the HP peaks, the power just falls off, whereas with the 4 degrees of timing, it held on for longer. The largest curve is 8 degrees with 39mm carbs rather than 36mm, so you can see the effects of going to a larger carb as well. Almost everything about performance is a trade-off, as you can clearly see in these plots.

I highly doubt that one wheel sits forward from the other. That would assume that the a-arms were symetric. I've heard nothing but great things about those sundahl setups. I think if you can even buy one, the frame itself runs like 10k, but it's been awhile since I've seen any threads about them. Think outside the box, people.

My all-time fav, hands down

All I can say is welcome to being broke, because once you put on a set of pipes on it, and feel the difference in power, you'll want more and more, until you're riding a rocket....