J.J.

Fixit, thanks man, I'll have to take a look at that.

Sounds like a pretty good course, concentrate at doing your best and ignore that loser, he'll most probably drop out soon...

Thanks for the heads-up, I'm having problems shifting 2nd to 3rd on pavement. (I've lost a few drags against my buddies 450 because of this ) But then, shouldn't the loose cam problem be common through all the gears? Confused...

Walt, thanx for scanning the magazine article, I really appreciate it... There's not much that I can add to what the other guys have said about your bike, your's and NYUK's bikes are still the most classy I have seen and are still my favourate banshees.

Yamalube-R, 32:1

Yep, the kit should come with some flat washers, bolt the intake manifold to the new reed cage with the washer in between the two as a spacer, then use a blade in the narrow gap to cut the rubber off.

Well, what kinda problems? You've come to the right place, I'm sure someone here will help you get it sorted.

I just want to take this oppertunity to thank CombatTalon2 for all his help (and patience) in getting my sig going. Dustin, you da man!

Yep, Meat_Head is the BHQ polishing wizard and try to refer to his post as mentioned before. I've polished the clutch cover and it came out very well. First off, I used paint stripper and a plastic putty knife to get the paint off. There are a lot of casting flaws to remove beforehand, I used a small 2nd-cut rat tail file, followed by emery cloth to remove large amounts of alloy. All scratch marks and dents from boots etc, have to be removed before you start polishing, I used very fine water paper for this. After that I just put it on a buffing wheel that I had mounted in the lathe and polished and polished and polished some more... I mounted the wheel in my bench grinder previously, but the rpms were too high and I ended up with bits of buffing wheel and buffing paste all over the place.

Kewl!! There is quite a good article on the LSR website on how to set up the camber & caster. That steering stabilizer is a bitch to get right, I put mine on without taking the front plastics off and it took a lotta cursing to get right. Take care that it doesn't come into contact with the radiator at the extreme ends of the steering movement. On mine the adjuster knob ended up right behind the forward end of the nose plastics, not good if you're the type who constantly fiddles with adjusting knobs. Pictures would be good, maybe you can take a series of installation pics and post a step by step article in the Products Review section...

Stock chain, stock rear sprocket, I can run 13,14 & 15 fronts and still adjust it properly.

Well seeing as you asked... Four x J.P.Sauer & Sohn Compressors supply the air into two 14m3 air receivers. Compressors are 275m3/hour, 3 stage - 4 cylinder - aircooled, with inter and aftercoolers. 50Kw Electric motor. These are very reliable with little maintenance and I have been using them on all of our projects so far. Never heard of a Husky...

Heres mine: Fatty & PC2 K&N in open airbox V-Force Elevation 1500-2000ft 320 Mains in winter and 300-310 in summer Stock needle in the middle 27.5 pilot

Well deserved! We'll have to hold you to your promise of scanning the article for us poor info-challenged banshee nuts on the other side of the world.

Whatchoo talkin' about? He's putting the whole engine in there...

Starting is by direct injection of 30Bar (about 427psi I think), compressed air. A distibuter at the end of the cam directs the compressed air to the cylinder which has its piston slightly after TDC. Interestingly here, (you can see I love this stuff ) this engine can be reversed, that means it is started in the opposite direction. Sooo, as the engine is directly coupled to the propeller shaft and the propeller is a of a fixed blade design, this means that for the ship to use the engine to stop the ship's movement ahead, the engine is stopped and re-started in the opposite direction. Typically, we can get about 14-16 consecutive starts before we run out of compressed air, so air is consumed wisely during maneuvering. If you use the little ol' F=PxA equation and you substitute 30Bar air pressure and using a bore of 98cm to calculate the area of the piston, you end up with a force of 226288 kg or 498881 lbs to force the piston down to turn the crank. The air start distributer is connected to a chain driven cam, so, for the engine to be started in the opposite direction, a servo-motor on the end of the cam will revolve the cam 180Deg, so now the air is directed to another piston that has it's piston slightly before TDC, therefore turning the engine in the opposite direction... Hope that answers you Q

Spindle bent.

I was talking through my ass here, if the waterpump seal is leaking the coolant will mix with the tranny oil, so this is a non-issue. Late night... I am using UPP carb boots, they come in pretty colors, so check them out. Unfortunately I don't have their website url. You could try the following to determine if the head gasket is indeed leaking: With the radiator cap off and the coolant level visible, get the bike to idle and try to see for traces of combustion pressure making it's way into the coolant. This should be evident by bubbles, etc. If you don't have any overheating problems and the you're not losing any coolant, then it must be something else. You never did say if the piston crowns had the same damage as the cylinder head...

They split the cases. The cases are bolted together similiar to a Banshee engine, splits above and below the crank, futhermore, the crank and the case halves can be split into longitudinal sections as well (Take a look at the pic of the 9 cylinder engine, 2nd last pic) and you'll see the bolts that hold it together. These pieces are then loaded on a barge, typically here, the factories for large engines are located adjacent to a waterway and the barge is then pulled by a tugboat to the shipyard. Location, location... As you guys can see, I have a hard-on for this stuff, so any questions, let it rip! I also have thousands of pictures on my office comp, so I can post some up if you have any particular questions. Someone mentioned cleanliness, well at the factory the cleanliness isn't a problem, as everything is indoors. Once they start assembling the cases onboard the hull, is where the problems start. The problem here is that the ship structure has to be constructed around the engine, and it is all outdoors. Welding, grinding, spraypainting, gritblasting, you name it, they do it all while they are assembling the engine and no matter how carefull you are, some shit is always going to get in there. Once assembled, they will clean it out by wiping and vacuuming followed by oil flushing of all the lube oil lines and bearings etc.

If the piston crowns are not showing the same damage as the combustion chambers then the damage must be from a previous train smash. What do the cylinder walls look like, if they don't have any gouges then things should be ok, especially with the compression you're getting. As for the white smoke, pretty sure it's coolant being burnt. Could be coming from a leaking water pump shaft seal. Where are you checking the coolant levels? Also take a good look at the gasket sealing surfaces of the head and cylinders for traces of coolant passing from the cooling jacket to the cylinder. Regarding the oil in the low end comment, there isn't any in the low end of this engine, the oil is in the gearbox only. Typically burnt oil is a blue-ish color and could be leaking past the crankseal. Renew those carb boots as soon as possible, then check you jetting.

Wish it would be that easy, but it's not. You will have to measure the ID of the cylinders to do the job properly, no way around it. You should also take a look at the cylinders to confirm no visible damage, before you buy the pistons. If you really have to get the pistons before you get home, then go for the next size up and have the machinest bore the cylinders to match the new pistons. Hopefully there is no damage to the cylinders and they only require a clean-up cut to the next oversize. This is a chance you're gonna have to take... As for Vito's, right now I'm using Vito's Super Stock Forged pistons and they work allright, no problems so far. Don't know about the extra 6 HP or so they were quoting, I didn't feel it. Due to different rates of expansion, forged pistons have to be warmed up carefully before you start hammering the bike.

Nobody

Plain, thin shell bearings, made of an alloy of tin, zinc and antimony.

M.A.N. B&W version of the same thing Yep, now we're talking. The 14 cylinder is a "paper engine" only, 12 cylinders are the only working ones at the moment. The main problem here is the lack of progress made in propeller design for large slow speed 2-strokes. Large 2-stroke engines and container ships are my bread & butter and I'm proud to say that at the moment our company has the largest container vessels in the world. This achievement will not last to long however, rumor has it that MAERSK Line have ordered ships with a container carrying capacity of 10 000 plus containers, these will be the first ships to have the 14 cylinder engines. Like I mentioned before, these ships are designed for the Pacific crossing, taking "Walmart-Made in China-by a Taiwanese businessman crap" from China to L.A. and moving empty containers back to China. As for the engine, BenBB came up with a design that had CPI out frames grafted on to it

Love'em!