Banshee 79

I just put a minus 1 inch LSR swingarm on my banshee. Does anyone know the correct chain length(# of links) for it. Thanks!

I've always wondered who makes there swingarms, they look exactly the same as Janssen racing swingers. I was on the phone with Mike from asr and he said the same company makes both of there products. I was going to buy one of there swingers but I ended up buying a lonestar, because after I bought my asr +3 up 1 a arms the least amount of caster I could get was 12 degrees before my a arms hit my shock, and I was looking to get 5-7 degrees. My arms have been holding up good but whats the point of adjustable arms when the minimum caster you can get is 12 degrees which is way to much!

What company makes there products, where are they located?

Those have left hand threads don't they, make sure your threading it on the correct way.

You have to mount the splitter somewhere unless you want it just hanging there.

That's a common problem with the Galfer T-Fitting, the stock Yamaha bolt is to large to go thru the Galfer fitting. There should be two other holes on your frame fitting that is not threaded, mount it to one of those with the correct size bolt and a nut with lock washer on the back of the frame tab. It's a little tough to get the nut on due to the fuel tank being in the way, but you should be able to thread it on there. I had the same problem, hope that helps!

Works,Custom Axis, and PEP all recommend 200 pounds. Elka and Ohlins recommend 150 pounds

Have you measured your caster yet with a angle finder, I was just curious because with the big loop towards the front it would seem like you would have 20+ degrees of positive caster. It sounds like ASR is blowing smoke up our asses, 4 different people has got different answers from them. Hope we get this shit figured out.

When your sitting on the bike.

I E-Mailed ASR with pictures of how my top arms were put on and he said they were on the correct way. Take it for what it's worth!

I sent you another PM, Here's a good guide to look thru when you start adjusting you front end http://www.lsracing.com/img/Guide_21.pdf

Thats what I was thinking too, I was going to adjust my caster to 5 degrees but when I do the damn shock hits the upper arm. Should have bought some laeger's or lonestar, I have fully adjustable arms and cannot adjust them how I want them

Here's some pics. of mine with the hoop towards the rear, it has about 1/8-1/4 inch clearance from the shock at 7 degrees positive caster, so they will go that way, but I have no idea if that's the correct way.

Here's some pics. from there old website of some 400EX arms, the loop is towards the rear, but I don't if there different than the banshees or not. You would think the directions would show what arm goes where but they don't. http://www.quadpartsguy.com/images/DSC00407.JPG

Yea you definitely need the four jam nuts on the outboard heim's I know that for sure.

I have the instructions that came with the arms but there pretty shitty, it doesn't mention anything about what arm goes where.

Damn that's messed up, when I was installing mine I talked to ASR on the phone and he told me the side with the larger curve faces the rear of the bike. Now I don't know what the hell to do, I had my shit already on and adjusted, hope I don't have to rip it apart. Hey when you get your shocks on could you post a few pics., I want to see how much the shock clears the rear of the upper arm, Thanks

Is it just me or are those upper arms on the wrong side, on mine the side with the bigger curve is facing the rear of the bike.

Durablue recommends 15 to 40 ft./lbs. on the large locking nut, I have a G-Force axle and used their torque specs. because G-force didn't give no specs. on the large nut. I torqued mine to 40 ft./lbs., just make sure on your torque wrench you take into account the extended length of the adaptor.

Cool, thanks man

I just got my Elka's on and wanted some opinions on the ride height. In the manual it says for motocross between 7.5 & 9 inches, and recreational between 9 & 10 inches. I ride a little bit of trails and a little bit on a track. Just wondering what you guys think works best for both types of riding without having to change your shit all the time. Thanks!

You should be around 280 to 300 main

For your camber & caster adjustments it needs to be at ride height with you or a buddy sitting on the bike. For toe in I always put the bike on a stand so the front tires just clear the ground. Then I mark a center knobby on each tire with tape or chalk, measure between those two points at the front of the bike then record the measurement, next spin the tires 180 degrees and make a measurement at the back of the bike the same distance from the ground as you made your first measurement and record it. Find your toe-in that way then check it at ride height to make sure nothing has changed.

One of your lights will be a spot, the other will be a flood, there's no high and low beam.

Did you make sure both wheels were pointing straight forward before you adjusted toe in? Put the front of your bike on a stand so the front tires are barely off the ground. Then run two tie down straps from the handlebars to the rear grab bar to keep your handlebars pointing straight forward. Next screw both tie rods all the way in, then measure from the front inside of your wheel about half way up, measure from there to the frame where your bottom bumper mount is. Record that measurement, then measure the other side the same way, adjust what ever tie rod needs to be adjusted to make these measurements exactly the same. From there measure your toe-in to 1/4 of an inch making sure you turn each tie rod exactly the same amount. If you have done all that I don't know what to tell you. Get you a cheap angle finder from the hardware store(I think they are 10 or 15 bucks) and measure your camber & caster correctly. Lonestar racing has a good guide to setting up a front end on their website, check it out. Hope that helps!