dajogejr

Yeah...I think he hit the switch marked km/h instead of mph....lol NO piped banshee will ever go that fast, unless it's being towed behind something faster....

Jeff @ FAST Racing...where I got mine from. Of course...once I got my RDZ/Shearer inframes, I no longer needed 'em angled. If that doesn't work, Cascade sells exhaust "Wraps" that go over the stinger tubes so you don't melt your pods or outerwears...

Echo...Echo...Echo... :beer: :yelrotflmao:

Hell...it's 470 for EVERYTHING from Cascade.... And, since they're in Oregon (I think) you won't have to pay sales tax.. http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/cascade...TORE_DEPT_ID=87

This should've been in the "fixin" forum...not General Discussion. You need to do two things....check cranking compression, then do a leak down test. Pinging sound? Yeah....stop riding that bike. There is one thing I can promise you...the longer you ride it like that, the more it's going to cost to fix when it goes boom. And it will. Get a compression test and leak down test done....or it'll cost you more later. I'd bet by now you have a few problems, crank seal is sucking fluid and air, it's starting to ruin your crank, and a piston is starting to come apart....that'd be my guess.

I'd agree with the above....but, I like my Shearer/RDZ inframes for top end.... Plus, I think their fit/finish is better than CPIs.

K&T didn't get to where they are today by screwing people over. I've never read a bad thread or thing said about them....other than their shit flat out hauls the mail. Something sounds fishy...and good for you...hopefully this guy is cool, and works with you instead of trying to be a dickwad....

I'd measure the rod if you can, as well. Chances are, if it's not stroked, it's not a long rod either. Stock is 110, long rods are 115mm... I'd call him out on it, or have him refund you a fair amount of money towards that part. Gonna be tough, though...I'm sure it's as is on the bill of sale. That's just one of those things....a matter of honesty... Also...the previous owner could've bought it that way and never tore it down. So...before you go ripping their head off...get the whole story from them.

I would hone the cylinders to break the glaze, wash them out, then remeasure clearances. As long as the pistons are within specs....and new rings have the proper end gap...go for it.

Air filter, without the lid and a K&N with T5 pipes, I'd say 290 and 310 main jets will fill the bill. Put the 290 in if you're gonna run with a lid and no snorkel, 310 if you're gonna run with the lid off. However, you'll probably be a little rich... 225 for Toomeys in good shape is a steal....you'd be silly not to jump all over this....it is exactly what you want. From stock pipes and K&N Pod filters to T5 pipes made a WORLD of difference on my stock motor last year..... Plus, you're dumping weight, it'll sound 10X better...and rev out further and cleaner....

The question is...do you want video or still pictures. For still pictures, you simply can not beat a Digital SLR...I love mine. However, no video.... For any kind of action shot....they can not be beat....

When you smoke a motor to save money for octane, you'll understand why. 18cc domes on a motor that is in good shape, with a compression tester is accurate, wil yield you about 170 to 180PSI....you'd need race gas, period.

Thanks...dude. that funny shit is just what I needed to hear. 250? If you could squeeze 300 you could probably pick up a used set of FMF or Toomey T5 pipes. Don't forget, it's gonna cost you 20 bucks in jets to get it right, probably.... Look on here in the classified for used pipes, or head over to Planet Sand as well...

This guy asked an honest, simple question...you've been a member here since December of 2004...and that's your second post? Do us a favor, wait another two years before you make a thoughtful, informative and insightful post like that... To answer your question. Porting is the wild card there, depending on what type. I would say anywhere from 50 to 65 HP...or so. Again, depending on how aggresive and how well the porting was done. Patriot does very good work...so, it very well could've been higher. Also, was it a stock stroke hot rods crank, stroker crank...etc. A lot of variable...but, stock stroke with a decent port job...I think those figures are about right or so....

My best guess is they are not the same. Regardless...never use two different shocks on a bike. You could end up with some pretty unpredictable handling, and get hurt.... If you could use both fronts off the Raptor, IF they'd fit...that would be your best bet. I do, however...have a set of front shocks off my 96 for sale, I will let go very...very cheap.... Straight, no leaks...the yellow shock springs do have some paint rubbed off them due to shockwears being on them for some time.

What are they worth to ya? ha ha....

Unless it's a chick....and she's smokin like a two stroke silencer....I don't wanna see that...lol. Good stuff...Stang...can't wait to see the site in production!!

Completely agree.... I'm not trying to say I floor it while blipping, real, real quick blips... And...as said, I make sure the head is warm to touch before going out. And I've done this for all two strokes I've owned. Iron cylinders, nikasil plated, forged and cast pistons.... We got a buddy that just starts it up...and takes off.... He wonders why he already popped a top end, just got the bike beginning of the year. Some people never learn....

Jeffro...sorry man, but I keep checking.... Looks like it's just around the bend... Please, Jeff...can you get another picture up on the right side of this header. Something about you in some daisy duke shorts going off the side of a dune does not paint a pretty picture with me....lol :beer: :yelrotflmao: http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/

Believe it or not...they might get involved....it's only a phone call... He might live in some bum fuck town where the only thing they have to look forward to is Opie raping his sheep again...

Dave....after he made this statement, contradictory to what everyone here is trying to tell him, we're already wasting our breath... A boost bottle will do nothing. A K&N filter might net you 1/2 a HP. If anyone here can feel a 1/2 HP seat of the pants....you're the man....

30 pilot should be fine. 32.5 is the max you'd need...but, you're only using the pilot circuit/air screw from idle to 1/8 throttle or so. Unless you're launching the quad at idle, the pilot circuit isn't your problem.

I used to setup fax machines at work...to auto dial numbers for jerkoffs like this, 5 times in a row....at like 3AM. Always nice to get the old analog data squeal in your ear that early in the morning...

Suit yourself. You came here asking for advice...you've pretty much gotten the same adivce, and you choose to ignore it. You will barely notice a difference from a K&N filter, if at all. You will notice it is easier to clean, however....that's it. Go ahead and learn the hard way.... ::

Ditch the boost bottle. No one can tell you the "exact" jetting you need...only get you close. You need to find out what size jets are in there now, fix your float level or needle and seat leak...and start reading here: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=23546 http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html If it's a 370, that means it's .080 over...that's not considerd a "big bore" kit.... When you start resleeving the cylinders to accept bigger pistons than the normal sizes (past 66.50 mm or .100) then it's considered a big bore....