dajogejr

Do you mean once you disconnect the cable you can not "push" the arrow to line up? In other words, you're going to have free movement. But, you should feel resistance right when the arrows line up (unless you're the hulk or superman)... Pulling the clutch lever for "feel of lining up" is a bad way...only because you're not getting the true feel, the lever obviously has more leverage than just pushing the arm by finger. If they don't line up, or aren't very close...time to drain it and remove the side cover. If you have a clymers manual, page 153 shows you how to adjust the hub screw so the arm is properly lined up when pushed by hand. Takes a phillips and a 10 or 12mm wrench to loosen/tighten the adjustment....

Your main jet means nothing on take off...that's all pilots and air screws... Try turning each screw all the way in seated, then back them off 1.0 turn. I wouldn't pay too much attention to the color of the insulator...unless you're doing a proper plug chop. With time, they normally color...but, that really doesn't mean a whole lot. Your mains could be lean as hell (you're not in this case...but, just for example)...but, if you spend most of your time at 1/2 throttle or so, you're never on your mains. So, you'd be getting coloring from the pilot and needle... I agree...I think you're a little rich...but safe, on your mains. Here's how to plug chop: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Your pipes are prolly gonna wiggle a little, they're held on by springs and rubber pipe hangers... As long as they're not touching the frame, I wouldn't worry too much. If it concerns you that much, you can always get a few washers and shim it out a tad. When it's close to or rubbing wires, hoses or my air filters, that's when I worry.... Just about everyone I know that had Shearer pipes has to shim the left pipe so it doesn't rub the head...I think 3 washers did the trick on mine...

Yeah....make sure it's jetted properly first. Here's some cheap and easy mods to do which will net a noticable gain. I'd leave the FMFs on there unless you plan on digging into the motor and getting some port work done. Since you've done research....you'll notice that CPI are drag style top end pipes. That low end you don't want to lose would just about be gone with those....and I think it's fair to say FMFs have more low end than T5s. Shave the flywheel....35 to 65 bucks or so. Get a timing plate and advance it to 6 degrees (35 bucks) (Since you're running 19cc domes, and unical, I take it unical is race fuel...or higher octane fuel.. Unless you ride in deep water or mud, at least remove the air box lid and get a pro flow kit (to seal the air filter in absence of the lid) or cut out the back half of it... If you don't ride in any mud or water, remove the air box and get K&N pod or Foam Filters that clamp onto the back of your carbs... I'd say all of that can be done for less than $250 or so....but you need to be sure it's jetted properly, above all. On a side note...you're going to want to have the crank welded sometime in the near future. They're ok for stock motors, but...once you bump the compression...it's a good insurance policy... As for carbs. If you plan on leaving the porting stock...get 28mm PWKs. Anything bigger than that would probably be a waste on a non-ported motor, let alone you'd be really kissing your bottom end goodbye. Don't forget good tires and gearing changes, too....more power is nothing without getting it to the ground...and the stock rear tires you have in the picture above aren't doing much for you as it sits right now....

are you talking about the TORS or the ajustment bolt on the thumb throttle itself? Yes to both....anyways. If you mean the bolt on the throttle house, I'd remove it and get a short bolt to put back in so you don't get dirt/debris in there. The TORS are a great idea in theory...unfortunately, they're bulky and seldom work as they're designed to. Unplugging them is just about mandatory, and removing them with the kit makes things much nicer/easier to work on....

Time to take the side cover off...and check the adjustment on the pushrod/actuator lever... I know none of this should've changed with just a fresh top end, but...it's not working properly now...so, it's gotta be done. Remove the cable from the arm on the tranny...push the arm with your fingers. Do the arrows line up? What happened to the motor that caused you to put a fresh top end on? Any lockup or seizures....? Was it running when you replaced the top end?...maintenance top end?

When you switched coil leads, did the other side get spark? I think you bought my stock cylinder head, Penny.... What all did you do when you tore this motor down? Just a fresh top end, did you get into splitting the cases? Have you done a leak down and/or a compression test on this build? What all did you do to unplug the TORS...and has it ever run fine since you unplugged the TORS?

Thanks for pointing that out Brad.... I reread the add carefully...and all I saw was Trinity...then, realized it was someone reselling their stuff. My fault...bad knock on Trinity...I've edited my post accordingly... PM Jeff @ FASTOYS or call him @ 785-364-5325 I'd ask him right off the bat if he's willing to ship to Germany...then, go from there!

Solid advice, just what I was thinking as I was reading the original post. With a plate and shaved flywheel...it woke my stock motor with T5's right up...and I loved it!!! Quicker and easier to keep on the pipe, even my 4 stroke riding buddy was impressed how much it changed the characteristics of the bike...

I got a 600cc Polaris triple/triple with 8K on here just waiting to be crammed in a go cart frame.... Come N' Get it... I saw a 125 CR motor in a kart as mentioned. Guy said it would go 0 to 60 to 0 in less than 6 or 7 seconds. MY Buddies and I were like, yeah...right. Braaapp braaapp brapppp....screech. Yep, he wasn't BSing....it was wild. He had to start it (as I'm sure they all do) by propping the rear tires off the ground, putting it in gear, and spinning the back tires.... It was cool as all hell!!!

That is friggin awesome....I might just steal that from you, pipebomb!!!

The "that" add is misworded. Yes, you must split the cases whenever you replace the crank...however, a 4 mil is a "drop in" crank. In other words, the bottom half of the cases do not have to be "trenched" or machined so the connecting rod clears... Larger than a 4mil does require machine work... I agree brad....my cub has more bottom end than stock, not saying much though... Nice thing is, though...pin it...and wait a 1/2 second, it'll be blistering the tires soon... I love my cub motor, but...if I had the money, I would build a Cheetah motor with Powervalves next time out. Those second two are the motor kits we're talking about. The problem you're going to run into, Steam...is you're in Germany. I'd say some builders won't ship out of the US, but....maybe one of them can chime in to concur. As big of a company as Trinity is...I'm sure they'll ship there. While I'm not a fan or Trinity....all they are is a reseller for the cub kits, and cheetah kits. Those monoblocks are made by CP Industries.... Anytime you put 80 to 90 HP out of a motor designed to make 33 to 35...well, it's not going to be as reliable. I think if you keep the timing and compression within reason, though...and MAINTAIN the bike, you'll be fine. Luckily...since you ride street, I'd say that would mean less freequent tranny oil changes and air filter cleanings!!

Interesting.... Those Trinity Pipes from what I hear are very similar to T5...would you say? I've got a lot of timing and pretty good compression (185 PSI)...and my bottome sucks...I got a feeling putting around the dunes under the pipe is gonna be boring...

I dunno, Brad. When I had my stock carbs and T5's on my cub motor...it was still like a lightswitch. It felt like it hit about the same RPMs as my Shearers...it just didn't rev out quite as hard or as high... Literally no bottom, prolly a little better mid....and WHAM....lookout.

Did you warm the bike up on old plugs, put fresh ones in and do a WOT run, then Kill the ignition with the throttle pinned?

If you have the money...a cheetah would be the way to go, or...even an RZ motor conversion. For street driving, you're gonna want some lower RPM power. The cub cylinder is all top end. No bottom, very little middle...all top end. Unless you plan on screaming around 6K to 10K RPM all the time, the cub is a bad fit. I'm not sure how much bottom the Vito's cylinder has. The Cheetah would be a good runner though. I'd stay away from a high compression, huge stroke engine, since you'll be on the streets...you'll want reliability... Just my 02...

Not sure what changed from the first set to the second set of pics, but...the first looks al little rich, the second looks damn near perfect. Maybe a tad rich. If you're happy how it runs at high RPM, leave it. If it bogs a little out of the hole, you'll have to mess with your air screw. Since you haven't touched anything but the mains...I'd say you're lean on the pilot...since you no longer have an air box. Try turning the air screws in 1/2 a turn, wait 20 seconds for it to take effect, go for a ride. if it gets better...try another 1/2 turn, waiting 20 seconds each adjustment. Remember, make these adjustments when the bike is warmed up. You could probably go to a 330 main...but, a little rich is better than a little lean...

Unplugging the TORS and the oil injection have nothing to do with each other, that I know of. If you've cleaned the carb out very good....I'm sure someone here knows how to unplug and short out the TORS on a blaster.. Did you block off the oil injection properly since you're premixing? Fist thing you need to do is see what jetting is in there now, and compare it to what is supposed to be stock. Then...do a rough estimate on how much that should change based on the air filter, open lid airbox and pipe....

Here's his answer from Ebay: What a crock!! Thanks for your email. There is no dyno sheet for it unfortunately, but you are more than welcome to call Clifford Cycles in Omaha, NE, 402.558.8006, ask for big Jimmy and he can tell you about Pedro's banshee. This has plenty of high performance parts and the guys at Clifford Cycles can let you know about it, please let me know if you have any other questions or would like to make an offer, J.J. 402.991.1112

None between us whatsoever...it's all good! :beer:

Sorry to dig this up...but, some little scumbag is using my name over at project blaster.com. Not me boys.... I signed up just now as theREAL_dajogejr, but the thread is locked and I can't defend myself. I think if any of you that know me know I don't go trolling around...this just aggravates me....

Well...slap me and call me silly, but....he said 80 to 90 HP.... Sorry...that ain't no trail bike anymore... To take advantage of that kind of ponies, it's gonna be full throttle riding. A good set of stock cylinders pushing 65ish or so are trail cylinders.... However...a cheetah motor might be a good choice as well. They're pricey, but have power valves and let you keep some low end...while still screaming with power on top. But, they'll be more than a Vito's or Cub setup....

I'm not creative enough to come up with a good screen name...so, here it is: DAvid JOseph GErmain JR First two of each name, and I'm a Jr. I've already got in a few tiffs here...3 to be exact. But, you know what they say...can't please 'em all... lol I can take the punishment....I think.... :thumbsup: Trust me, Liftd....I'm 30, just turned. The good old high school days seems like DECADES ago... It still cracks me up going into a party store, and seeing that sign: You must be born....1985 or earlier for alky You must be born....1988 for cigarettes... The fact that I've lost most my hair usually means I don't get carded....either. Yeah...the good ol days....

Kinda hard to say if you'll need race/pump mix until you actually check the compression. I wouldn't run any more oil...same as you did before, with a quality 2stroke oil...

About 7 MPH or so.... http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm I'd go 3 bigger in the rear, personally....