dajogejr

I think the stock style slider on the front of the swinger is junk... Get the aftermarket UPP one for a few bucks, that thing will last you for ever!

Send 'em baby!!! I cleaned it up nice and shiny for my dune trip end of this month!!! Just waiting for the vinyl to dress it up a bit!! Can't wait for the stickies!!! Pleasure as always, Chase.... More than fair and completely honest...just how it should be. -daj..

Tank is sold, FINALLY....thanks though.

Tigers all the way....we disposed of the best hitting lineup in baseball in 4 games. Whipped the A's 4 games straight. With some rest for Zumaya to heal and the rest of them...look out. They might be a little rusty the first few innings...but, it's hard to argue with our pitching. Kenny Rogers is on fire, and Bonderman is playing good ball as well!!

Yep...forgot about the good ol TORS.... Start it up, warm it up...and spray carb cleaner all around the boots. If it wants to die down or the R"s drop...yep, it's an air leak...

Got a pic?

Just learn how to read the plugs already ....will ya? :biggrin: On every dyno run I've witnessed, on two strokes, the sensor is placed inside the silencer... Perhaps that may be effecting the reading a bit... I can tell you with 99% certainty you don't need a 30 pilot with that setup... 27.5 is plenty fine. I've read of alky banshees using stock carbs (yes...stock carbs, I know...waste) running 30 or 32.5 pilots... Is there a way to heat tape that sensor inside the silencer?

Unless Passion's MX port needs gas like a drag port....you're WAY rich. You're still running an airbox AND cut lid... You'll probably be closer to 330 or so... And you probably could get away with stock or 27.5 pilot... And try the Toomey needle in the 4th clip (6 grooves total, 4th clip from the blunt end)... The Toomey Needles generally like to run down on a dlip a bit...they're much longer than stock...and if you're 2nd from the blunt end now, you're running on those needles for a long, long time. Hate to say it, but...I think black sunshine is right. You might have an air leak...

Check your reeds...

I don't know if I buy that....adding compression or timing will actually make your bike run warmer. How much? Probably not enough to worry about .. Any time you modify a stock engine to do anything, it cuts down reliabilty...but, you're less reliable now with the pipes than what timing would effect, IMO. I think T5 or Trinity would be a good choice... CPI probably wouldn't match up to a wood/mx port very well... If you're gonna pull the crank out, and you have the money....you might want to think about a 4 mil stroker.... Your builder will tell you to best go about that. You can either run a spacer plate or have the porting changed and run 795's ...either way you'll need a rechambered head. The good news is you can sell your stock crank if it's in good shape for 100 to 150 bucks or so, that'll offset some of the cost. And....you can get pretty good dollar for those T6 pipes for other ones. Hell, Toomey may even let you trade those T6's for T5...for little or no money out of pocket... I know you can trade in T5's for T6's.... And they don't make ProLites in a .010... I'm pretty sure .020 is the starting point, then .010 increments from there. BTW...our Tigers walked through the Yankess...swept the A's...bring it on National Leauge...lol...

4 mil cub with drag porting, cool head with 18 or 19cc domes, and 35 or 39PWK carbs on alky...then some good top end pipes, Shearers or CPIs. Prices vary....you'll have to call around and see who'll ship to Canada... I think Jeff does: www.farmandsandtoys.com

Don't forget...that cheap chain wears out the front and rear sprockets sooner. So, not only are you replacing the chain sooner, you're replacing the sprockets too....

http://search.ebay.com/banshee-clymer_W0QQ...nsheeQ20clymers

He's not even close to 50 with those mods... Save your money and get your head shaved .030 and run some race gas. Since you mentioned porting, have Jeff weld and true your stock crank, too.... You'll probably be in the neighborhood of 65ish once done. I know someone will disagree, but...at that point...I think those PC pipes will be holding you back...

Good luck.... Stock they have 33 to 35. Right now you're probably about 40ish. You're gonna need, IMO, 60 to 75HP to pull the gearing you need to get to 110MPH. If not more. If you can't do the work yourself, you're gonna probably have a hard time getting to 110MPH with that budget. Once you start putting power to the ground, are you ready to get a longer swingarm, bigger carbs, top end pipes, etc in order to make that motor run? Is top speed all you're after?

Please don't change the premix thinking it's going to give you more power, it will only hurt reliability... (Unless you say you're running at like 10:1...lol ) As long as you're in the 32:1 range, give or take, leave it there. +4 plate and a shaved flywheel are the way to go. Then, short of an expensive ignition, it's left to porting or other internal work, and you'll probably want better pipes for that. It's been said here a million times, with very conservative porting, T6s will work...but, more agressive porting is not what they're made for. Some will say VForce reeds, but...I'd tell you to get porting before them.

That's a very good point, stang...the key could've sheared too...throwing the timing all off.. That's the pickup coil off the flywheel...and the gap is supposed to be .017 to .020.... CDI is the ignition box under the rear fender.... CDIs aren't that expensive, unless you go to the dealer for one. Ricky Stator has brand new CDIs for 125.00, compared to about 300 or 400 from the dealer...

Not sure about where you're from...but, of all the new bikes I've had, dirt bikes, quads, etc., I've NEVER had jets included with the purchase....other than what was already in the carbs... However...not saying other dealers in other areas don't practice that.... That is a good idea. Since they're cheap....and they're the dealer so they should have 'em, I'd tell 'em to give you a set of mains from 210 to 250....

If you are lean with the 240's why would you leave them in? Put the 250's back in. And three turns out on the air screws it too much....there is something else wrong. If you have aftermarket pipes and NO Airbox, then I'd say bump up your pilot. But, you don't....so, something is wrong. That bike should run with the air screws between 1.0 and 2.5 turns out. That air screw has absolutely nothing to do with your main....it will not lean our or richen up the main circuit.... I think your slides may be in backwards, choke tube not on and/or the bowls backwards...somethin ain't right...

No way to test the CDI that I know of. stator and Coil can be Ohm'd...but, CDI is good or bad. It's very rare a CDI will cause a bike to run poorly, normally when a CDI goes it gets NO spark at all. YOu might be overthinking this. Do you still have the TORS on? If so...disconnect them all. Chase@miamiatv has a thread with pictures on how/where to do this.....

locogoto had a post on relocating his in front of the radiator.... I'm sure if you removed the TORS brain under the left side of a gas tank, you could make a bracket to hold it there, as well....

Some will tell you RockyMountain ATV. I'll tell you magic racing. Short of the actual machine shop work, this is everything you need but fluids. http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K..._p_133-135.html

Yep...I would. Nothing like dicking around all day and night trying to figure out a ground problem or a bare wire. Now's also the time to move your CDI up front....so you can clean up the wiring as well. If you want to run lights, you need a few extra wires, but..if you're going "Lights out"...shit, easier than ever! It's either here or on planet sand.com that they show what wires you need, and how to slim down your harness!!

They made a Honda 250R for four years, 86 to 89....and they STILL have parts for those things. Considering they're still making them, and shee's have been in the US from 87 to 06.....there will parts for these things for years, and years and years....to come.

I don't know about you guys....but, If I had to pick a bike to learn on, how to fix it....and get to ride it, I'd rather have a 16mil cheetah than a plain old stock or near stockish bike.... If you got the $$, spend it.... You're just building a bike all at one, whereas most people spend a few grand this year, a few next year....etc.... I will agree with the point of now that you've got this bike, maintaining it is key....as well as more expensive. Get out there and get r done....