dajogejr

Detroit is a very compasionate city....we feel bad it took you 7 games to beat the Mets, and just barely.... So...we figured we'd give you one to keep it interesting... :yelrotflmao:

Sorry guys...I'm gonna have to disagree... I havesame cubs/crank you're looking at...but I had T5 pipes and stock carbs, and I hated it on trails. And these were wide open trails...nice and faster ones. A single 35 might get you a little more low end, but not worlds different. Just a clean up port by that guy above me...Jeff. I think a good set of stock cylinders ported right and a stroker crank would be better than cubs... Just my .02 coming from where you are thinking of going....

Sorry...Milo. Didn't mean to say you were pointing the finger...from reading you post, I thought you meant you bought the K&N off a bad member, but the proflow from a good one. :beer:

I parsed a lot of this, thought Ehaust gas temp was mentioned, now that I reread it....it's not, got it. I've got a few questions....too. What kind of fuel additive are you using and why? What mods are done to your bike? Will the fuel additive color the plugs that fast to where a traditional plug chop is innefective?

Not trying to sound like a smart ass....but, just because you have a machine shop, doesn't mean you can cut a head.... Again, don't take that the wrong way. I have die grinders and an air compressor...but I don't know the first thing about porting a cylinder... The crank itself is about 400 to 500 bucks... Porting needs to be done sooner or later. I'd get porting first, then the crank... Call Jeff he can work with you on timeline, budget and performance needs...

tony.... The main sounds about right for your mods. There is no substitute for a proper plug chop to tell you for 100% certain. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html And, you'll probably have to jet richer for Winter....normally one bigger size main for every 20 to 30 degree drop in temps (Farenheight, btw)...if your bike is jetted properly to begin with... You do not need to do anything to keep heat in the motor, just make sure you take your time warming it up completely before you go tearing off on it....and check that jetting!!!

While there is fuel bouncing back and forth in the chamber, the standards for tuning via EGT are just that. 4 to 6 inched on the pipe from the piston. Like anything, most builders have a temp range they like to run in for gas, and a different for alky...but, that is how it's done. Also....just like a dyno A/F meter and as I've said before. This is a good way to help tune the engine, but should not be replaced for reading plugs and piston crown burn patters.... I'm not going to start WW2 with you Oj...but, even if you get it dead set on a dyno or a/f meter, you still gotta read the plugs from riding at your actual temp, elevation and locale!!! Do a search on EGT or 2 stroke exhaust temp on planetsand.com There is a wealth of information on this subject....many times over.

Ditto. But, you're going to get a million answers to this very question, it's been covered 1,000,000 times, and everyone has their opinion.... :beer:

If you just wanna ride with extra power, save your money. Get the stock crank trued and welded (for reliability) and get the a good aggressive dune port on the cylinders. That would be the most cost effective way to get some ponies.

Game 1 tomorrow in Detroit. Game 2 Sunday in Detroit. next 3 games in St. Louis, then 6 and 7 in Detroit. We have home field advantage....

Probably a smart choice on his part....or else he would've needed voice recognition software instead of a keyboard once his pops got done with him...lol.

Same gasket, left and right...flip it around. The orange wire I think is Hot going to the coil.... Someone probably tried to hook a kill switch into it at one time or another.

Picked the wrong time for me to get to his house and motivate..lol. I got a room demo'd yesterday and today, gonna finish up tomorrow. Then...I gotta start all the prep work...I wish I had the time. I gave away 4 good seats to the U of M vs. Iowa game tomorrow to get more work done on the house....sucks, I know....

Noss head. Dome size is up to you. PM dlnoss or call him at Noss Machine. He can explain dome size, compression, fuel needs better and quicker than I can. http://www.nossmachine.com/

A cool head is great, if you have the cabbage. Will run cooler and has interchangable domes (although....you never really change 'em) plus they're Oringed wich seal better. If you have the 250ish to get one, I'd say do it. Until you get porting, IMO, a good set of VForce reeds really aren't worth it. Yes, they flow better than stock and are way better designed...but, you won't truly be able to appreciate them until you get your grind on.... 200 bucks or so can better be spent elsewhere. I'd keep the stock cages for now, replace them with Boyseen reeds, and wait for cages until you're ready for the show...

I think the new Honda 450 comes with electric start AND reverse as an option. I know ES, not 100% on reverse... Ok...had to look on Honda's site. Electric start, check. NO reverse offered...my bad. Personally, on those 4 pokes, electric start is almost a must...they're a biatch to start with kick! But, I can live without reverse....just go faster...

260 with a lid and at that elevation sounds right, give or take one size. If you have to turn the air screws less than .5 turns, then you'll need to bump up the pilot. If it's getting better at 1.75 to 2.0 turns out, 25 is the smallest pilot they make, you'll be just fine. Try 2.0 then 2.25 turns out...get the best setting. Remember...you have to wait a good 20 seconds after you adjust them for the setting to take effect on the pilots. Needle should be fine in the middle clip, if it's boggy, you can try leaning it out one clip (one clip towards the blunt end) and see if that's any better. Carb syncing is critical at lower speeds...so, that was part of the problem there. FMF are a fine choice for trail pipes.... For a little more punch, pickup an adjustable timing plate, they're 35 plus shipping, set it at +4...and think about having the flywheel shaved. These are great trail mods, and give you a very noticeable umph in the lower R's...

There is an air screw in each carb, same spot, bottom right corner if you're looking at them from the left side (same side as the gear selector). These are air screws, so...turning them in (clockwise) will make it richer (less air, more fuel) and counterclockwise will lean them out. Correct!!!

WHAT????? You're not touching a complete Cheetah setup for a grand... The next bolt ons are shaving your stock head, lightening the flywheel and an advanced timing plate. Careful on how much you shave your head...too much compression will require pump/race gas mix or straight race gas all together... From there, it's really on. Weld/true the crank and get some porting done to match your style of riding...from MX to trails, Dunes to full out Drag racing... Going to a cub motor or cheetah motor is a big, big commitment. Pipes and bigger carbs to accomodate, a longer swingarm, better clutch, new pistons.... It will use all stock components, such as reed cages, intakes, etc., but...the big power increase means it would be time to revamp just about everything on the bike....from the clutch to the suspension and tires to make any use of it. I went from the basic setup you had last year, to a 4 mil 68mm piston cheetah cub motor, and if you think you're gonna get it setup right for cheap, you're off!! It's a few thousand dollars easily to do it up right....and then you have a dune/drag bike. Said it before, say it again...cubs are not trail cylinders, no matter how much you choke them down...

Ditto....thanks for keeping us safe, first and foremost. Call Jeff @ FAST Racing, or...check out his site. www.farmandsandtoys.com If you can afford porting and a stroker, you'll be real, real happy.... But, you're gonna need new pistons and a cut head too....a stroker crank (4mil) is a drop in, but...you have to account for that extra stroke by either running a spacer plate and a cut head or 795 series pistons (higher wrist pin height) and a cut head...and porting to match the longer stroke... Either way, Jeffrey will set you straight. --daj...

Everytime i've been to Silver lake, the weather has been 100X better than what weather.com has said. They ALWAYS say it's gonna rain, and it only does 10% of the time they say it will. Even Marilyn at Sierra Sands said something about it...they don't make us look too good out here with the weather reports, or something like that.... As long as it aint' pouring out...I'm all for it. Cold is fine, a little more powerjet...he he....

Are you blaming the member for selling you a stock airbox K&N and NOT fitting on the proflow adapter? I hope not, that's not their fault... And I agree....a ProFlow is a must, stock air box design blows....

Yep, pretty much hit the nail on teh head. Washburn....Cubs have drag port timings from the factory. All kinds of power up top...but pretty much only up top. ONce you go cub, you're talking longer swinger, bigger carbs, top end style pipes...none of which are trail friendly. I'm quoting bigred once again, you'll have "too much of the wrong kind of power"... Yeah, my cub on a 6 over will fry my holeshots XCRs on dirt, GRASS and pavement. Not sure about 5th gear holeshots, but...I"m sure I could fry 'em from a slight roll in 2nd through 5th...

We got a new stadium a few years ago, and have still managed to stink up the league until this year. (yeah, they lost over 100 games just a few short years ago...) Should be a good series, but...if the Tigers play the exact same way as they did agains the yanks and A's, I don't think there is a team in baseball right now that can beat them. Our starting rotation is absolutely sick....

Correct.... 64mm is stock OEM bore. 65mm would be 1mm over, or....more commonly known as .040 over!!