dajogejr

I was trying to be nice until you and your butt buddy got on here running your mouths... Pedal your shit elsewhere. If you would've been honest up front, and taken a different tone with everyone, you might have actually sold them on here. I got an idea, why don't you and no_clue get one dildo, share it, and stick it in both of your mouths....then none of us have to listen to the shit coming out of either of them. Both you two dumb fucks ever hear of caps lock? You that stupid? You two are fucking jokes....period. Got one guy with less than 10 posts, and the other joker with under 400...but, we're the ass clowns? Do us all a favor and go elsewhere.....

Got a pic, sorry not the best, but...loaned my digital SLR to a friend. Camera phone best I can get on this.

This is pretty cheap, filters, outerwears....and a coolant bottle bracket (kinda worthless if you ask me...) http://www.magicracing.com/KN-Clamp-On-Kit...ee_p_0-470.html

From Jeff's site, 90 for precision bore and hone. You can get a COMPLETE top end kit, including ALL gaskets, pistons, wrist pins and pin bearings for 160.00 plus shipping. Jeff's Work: http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/services.asp Top end Kit (and Jeff can probably match or beat this price, but ask him) Magic Racing: http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K..._p_133-135.html

I'd replace those plastic ones with the bronze inserts, they last longer. Also....remove the front shocks and grease their pivot points as well....

I think the pictures that are up are just fine, and you said...MAKE OFFER, right? If you're not ready to sell something, don't put it up. And....if you get offers, either say no thanks, or....tell us what you want for them.... You can't say Make offer and then post later I'll have better pics and a price once I sit down and figure it out....what is there to figure out? You want to bake that cake....or just eat it?

Yep, that sure is one clean looking quad...I know that'd fetch alot more money on the west coast than it will here, in the midwest/north east. I agree....pickup a cycle trader and see what they go for!

Yeah....I agree.... I wouldn't just go doing it either....but, if I were to port my stock cylinders OR run some compression through there requiring race gas, yeah....I'd get r done.

Yeah, the powerband, or motor characteristics get changed or "enhanced" has you do mods, every little thing from chaning air filter to a full on port job, pipes, etc. We're just having fun with you and keeping a long time running joke going. Many riders years ago would have the same question at one point or another.... :beer:

Fair enough, NY350.... I agree, the warranty is stupid, I just read that as you saying the user was. I try to err on the side of caution. I've read a lot of top builders seeing separated cranks on stock bikes when they came in to get porting, etc... I agree....stock motor porting, stock compression and minimal timing, with pipes...you're probably safe. I ran my stock 96 motor on the stock crank until the beginning of this year, the motor was never torn apart or freshened up (yea, stock original pistons and everything.) Bob @ R&B racing bought my stock crank, and said it looked just fine, I'm sure he welded it though as it was already on his bench.... I see your point, just throwing some caution out there!!! :beer:

Yep...260 to 280 is where you end up. And I can tell you from first hand experience, if you put 280 mains in a bike that has no airbox (a la their 1 into 2 OR Pod Filters) and their T5 pipes, you will blow it up.... I ran 330s or 340s in my pod filtered T5 bone stock port motor.... Unless you're gonna ride in a lot of mud or water, let that thing breath a little more on the inhale... Try a K&N Filter and drilling a few holes in the lid (free to drill) or remove the lid and get a pro flow kit, (to secure the filter's sealing edge to the airbox.)

That metal is so soft, a scotchbrite pad (or roloc pad) on a die grinder will remove more than enough material to allow the brass idle screws to flatten out and move the slide as you need it...

And....once you start with porting and/or raising your compression...I'm just going to say it, get your stock crank trued and welded. Some on here will tell you they've run stockers for 100 years, but...more will tell you it's a good idea at any point. If you're gonna get it ported, tear it down a little further and weld that crank. If you're gonna go drag bike eventually, this is an absoloute must...so, why not get it done now?

Yeah....I had my laugh...that's for sure. A powerband is not a part at all. A powerband is how your two stroke runs, as in what RPMS it makes it's power, and HOW it makes it power.... This is a long running joke from any rider, period...two stroke, four stroke, etc. Kinda like a muffler bearing....it's an old gag. There is no such part as a "powerband"...it's a term used for how it runs. Hope this helps.... (sorry guys, couldn't let this guy take a beating anymore....)

Thanks man!! Funny thing is, I got them for a great deal from bkabina....and if he picks them up powerjetted....he's stealing them right back...

Deleted posts. Not right to muddy up someone's for sale thread....I don't like it when done to mine. Bump.... Get-R-Done....

Talk about coming full circle.. I borrowed my camera to some friends, I will have to borrow my girl's camera to take the pics....later tonight for you Steve. You know who powerjetted them....you've done biz with him before. I'll get my arse in gear and post pics up later tonight.

I"m not trying to be a smart ass, really....just stating facts. 33 to 35HP is bone stock, you'd have to have one HELL of a port job to get over 50 on stock pipes.... If you think it's hard to keep the front end down now....put some good pipes on. WHOLE new ballgame!!!

I've got a pair of 35PWKs, CEL needles and powerjetted on gas for sale.... If you're getting a cub motor or a dune port, these are great, great carbs to have. I'm building an alky bike, and I'm switching to 39 carbs setup for a fuel pump..... Newer return springs, NOT cut, newer plastic collars that hold the cable in place... I have a few jets laying around, right now they have 45 pilot and I think 150 mains in them. Powerjetting allows a richer mixture for the main without having to change the jet itself, just turn a knob for more fuel. Can get more pics if interested....if you click on the pic in my sig, you can see 'em. Carbs ONLY, no intakes, cable, air filters, etc. 250.00 shipped in US only....(Fed Ex Express Saver. If you want them faster, shipping is more $$) PM me for any other details or questions. I ship next business day after payment is received, PM and/or email you the Fed Ex Tracking number, and I have perfect feedback rating here on HQ....

Don't take this the wrong way...but, porting is an art. If you've done it before, you can very easily get 55HP with porting and pipes, but...have you rejetted accordingly, opened up the air box a little, etc.... However, it really depends on how much you actually ported it. You could actually make it worse without knowing what you're doing! For cheap mods, get some compression and timing in that thing, too!

Yeah....I like the banshees for nice wide open riding, drag strip and dunes... Other than that, take any one of the new 4 strokes, 450s or Raptor, slap a slip on or pipe on and air filter, and enjoy the trails... I'm looking into one next year myself... Just something about being able to pull up to a pump, and pump...without having to mix, worry about fuel mileage...etc. My trail buddies are ALL 4 strokers, my dune/drag strip buddies are all banshee guys (with one or two exceptions).... There's just something to that... Good luck!!

Fairly easy... Cut the wire, strip it, bend it back and crimp the new end on.

I had problems with my cub being out of square....top and bottom uneven. I would at the VERY LEAST, have a good machine shop check top and bottom for flatness...after that it should be bolt on.... Odaen... I totally agree... I put my cub together 3 times....and got fed up. I was more an more careful each time to check, double check and seal every little item. And I had my motor torn down to bare cases, cleaned, whitegloved the whole motor, after reading everyone's advice it's a "bolt on" motor... Will.... If you're very proficient and have the tools and time to check clearances on everything, from piston to wall, ring end gap...and most importantly squish, go for it. I HIGHLY recommend a leak down test and then a compression test before you even attempt to fire it up... I've rebuild dozens and doezens of motors, from your lawn mower to my CR dirtbikes and other banshees....but this cub motor was a whole new animal....and I had a real long thread on all the problems I had. But...I'm happier than shit it's together and running fantastic...well worth it in the end, plus I met a whole new group of people at the track and dunes because of it.... So...just my own experience, and it was just this year....

A new coil from Ricky Stator is 60 bucks or so. However, just for the hey of it, NGK Plug caps are cheap, I think 5 bucks or so a piece...might want to try that. Stock plug caps often go bad, and it's a cheap fix. Yep, weak spark normally shows it's ugly head off idle.....and gets worse.

110 octane, 185PSI, near sea level...and I have a WHOLE lot of timing, no problems. At that PSI, I think you'll be safe with straight race gas, 108 or 110, and let it be. You could play the guessing/tuning game of mixing pump and race...but, in the end...I think straight race gas is best for you!