dajogejr

Yep...he said just go to Alloyboltz.com....he's used 'em before.

Nope, using stock stuff on the motor. Cases are gonna be PCd...so, that'll look good. I want nice looking bolts for the frame, suspension, etc.... Who/what do you recommend, Mike? I'm PC'ing my frame, cases, front spindles and hubs. I have Tyson drag J Arms for the front... I'm going the extra mile to have it look good AND run good...but, reliability and strength are more important...

Wow....my buddy swears by 'em. My biggest concern is the suspension bolts, namely...J Arm bolts, motor mounts and swinger....hmmm... Dumb question, but...did you use manual or air tools to tighten them all down?

I'm looking to complete the package for my bike. I saw for 159 or so, alloyboltz.com has "polished" bolts for the banshee....that's the way I'm looking to go. Anyone have a line on cheaper...or is that pretty much it? I figure I'm going this far...I might as well finish the bike off right. But, money is money ya know! Here's what I'm talking about... http://www.alloyboltz.com/catalog/product_...roducts_id=1111

Wow...diggin up a 2 year old plus thread....nothing like going through the archives... ::

Don't forget, a lot of a preferred bend has to do with your height and length of your arms. I'm average height, average arms (6'0) and I like the pro-taper High CR bend. I cut my teeth on dirt bikes years ago, and I like a tall, wide...straighter bar with very little sweep. Shorter riders might like a lower bend bar. I rode a guy's YFZ with a real short bar, I felt like I was going to go over the bars at any given point....and just didn't like it!!

And they are correct. Get the bolt ons done first. Pipes, jetted, opened up air box, milled head, timing advance, lightened flywheel. Without the proper HP to pull that tall of gearing...it will be pointless. Yeah, it might eventually pull it, but...doubt it...and the time it takes you to get there will seem like forever. Now...get some strong porting done....WHOLE new ball game. But, you said without tearing the motor apart...so, with just bolt ons you can probably go from 33 to 35 HP stock to about 45ish....still not going to pull that tall of gearing all that well.

Far as I'm concerned, Denny....the 4.0 straight 6 is a great little engine, especially in a small little Wrangler. I had one in my 98 grand cherokee (obviously much heavier) and it always started, always ran....not 1 single issue, and....best part is, routine maintenance is a breeze. Spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor are all right within eye site, one of the easiest motors I've ever worked on period. There are so many parts for the aftermarket for those...and so many out, I think you'll be fine...

No... Carb cleaner I've used leaves a little bit of an oily film behind, whereas brake cleaner dries quickly and clean. I agree...I've always used brake cleaner with great results....shit will burn your hands with too much exposure, though... Powerwash then brake clean it...then power wash again!!

Kaotic... Still have the front douglas rims? Buddy of mine looking....

Aside from the rear rotor, how much do you want for the stators off BOTH bikes?

Oh yeah...you got PM buddy!!!

Like usual...by the time my wallet is lighter and I got a shell that said FAST, it might be two lengths.... :yelrotflmao:

Agreed. Unfortunately their domes are proprietary and can't be interchanged with Noss or ProDesign...plus domes cost more for them. That being said....I use the NOSS Head myself, it would've been nice to get one with a FAST engraving on it...however....JEFFREY!!! :yelrotflmao:

Call John Sefarian at Sand Toyz Unlimited. Helluva nice guy. I have comp series, these are NOT duning shocks, trust me...unless you have Delta Dental and don't mind getting fillings replaced on a regular basis (hey...sucking on some nitrous with elevator music in the back ground beats a day at work, right...? LOL) You want coil overs or hill shooters. Comp are for groomed tracks and drag only....and them darned things are STIFF. Sure, you can let a little nitro out of them...but, then you just ruined the purpose they were made for. Here's Sand Toyz...prepare to drool... http://www.sandtoyzunlimited.com/

Looking for a cheap, rear vented brake rotor. I have some parts to trade, or...let me know what you want cash. Thanks!! :thumbsup:

I'm going to get some large inner tubes and gut them, so I can stretch them out over the rear tires for transport. Then...just take 'em off once I get to the ice. I've seen others do the same, just gotta fine the right size/material.... Those picks will stay sharp a long time as long as you don't hit the pavement and/or dirt & gravel with them.

If ALL you did was bore it to freshen up, NO, you shouldn't have to rejet. However...it's always a good idea to check...especially with the temp drops some have experienced lately. But, if the jetting was spot on before the rebuild, no...you shouldn't have to.

How they operate and are adjusted are completely different than your standard Mikuni or Keihin carbs. That's not to say they are bad or good... Some people swear by them, and others have no luck tuning them in.... My buddy had a lectron on his old 79 KX125...but, I'm sure they've changed a bit since then...LOL.

YOu listed a whole category of things, did you mean these carbs? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/carbys-to-suit-yama...1QQcmdZViewItem If so...you'll need new intakes, or will have to "sand" your stockers, your call.

WOW!!! Truly a welcome addition to this site, Dave....I picked up some of your power jets for my new alky 10 mil build after hearing nothing but good about them....can't WAIT to see them in action. Dave, glad to see you over here helping and also looking to better this site with sponsorship, etc. :thumbsup:

Whoa whoa whoa....wait a minute. Throw in a tapper and we just might have a deal... New Price, 2300. To be honest, it's my buddy's quad as mentioned. He is NOT hurting for money, doesn't need to sell it, just decided he wants to stick to snowmobiles...that's all. He got it for a steal, and is looking to get fair value for it. Talked to him this morning, he'll take 2300...and if he can't sell it for that, he's gonna put it on ebay with a decent reserve or keep it till spring where it will fetch a better price around here. So...new price.

More than likely...but, with an airbox and K&N you could probably use a stock pilot or 27.5 (one up from the 25 stock pilot)..

Sucka...LOL.... Going with translucent red on my frame, engine cases and front hubs/spindles, pearl white plastics. Will have my frame, cases and front end parts back this Saturday, and will post pics....

I'm confused.... If you can buy them all day long for that year for 2500, why would I ask my buddy to sell it to you for 1600, then 2000? Sorry... :shrug: