dajogejr

Fine point indeed. Also... keep your T6 pipes unless you pull the top end off and get some aggressive porting, they actually work better with a STOCK port than T5s do....

Keep in mind the bike will be lower, lighter, and have STIFF marvins all the way around. OH, I also weigh 245 lbs or so. If I were lighter, I'd probably go 10 over with 12 extremes. Traction won't be a problem on this bike. With my 6 over and 10 paddles that bike was a handful on my 4 mil cub, on gas. Pushing another 25 HP with alky, bigger motor, lighter bike...lockup clutch and an override, I'm pretty sure it'll be just fine! But...as they say, we shall see once the green light drops!!!

Well, looks like you guys know it all...so, not sure why you're even still posting other than just to blah blah. Go get a 17cc dome for your head, run race gas and use your stock crank. Don't bother coming back to us with it smokes the motor, we already know it does. No one is saying it won't come apart or it will come apart with any 100% certainty. What they are telling you is why on earth would you chance it when the odds are MOST definitely stacked against you? Sure, you can play in the middle of the road in traffic for a while, but sooner or later, one day or another....you're gonna get hit. Big Mike, maybe YOUR engine builders will tell you compression doesn't kill a crank, please list him so we all know who to stay away from. Anyone on here worth their salt knows otherwise....you're really wasting our time at this point.

Ohm the stator....or send it to Ricky Stator. they will test it free of charge, you only pay shipping back to you if it tests out bad. I've seen stators that OHM'd good still be bad. Check the flywheel for broken/scatterd magnets. Take it off, shake it, see if it sounds like a salt and pepper shaker... Lastly, I didn't see it..but, make sure the flywheel key didn't shear, and check your pickup air gap for the flywheel.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you... A while back someone posted they had +8 on their cub, and people were saying it's too much timing, even for a cub. BS...cubs love timing. I had 8 on my plate plus curve 3 on my dyna...185PSI and straight 110 octane race gas. Rand very, very good. I'm glad to see someone agrees...thanks!!!

I agree 100%!!

I shouldn't have to. he knows he did wrong... And thanks Wallace....I try to be more than fair when people treat me the same way!

Nice truck...Ell... I forgot what color they call that, I know it's not fire red. I liked that color, patriot blue and my silver. All said and done, I went with Silver because....just like your local librarian or prom date, you never really know how dirty she is....LOL....

I rode a 4 mil cub my boy put together on a stock frame, 14 over with 12 paddle extremes. It ran hard, an STILL came up and got all sorts of traction. Good 60 foot time and all. Before I rode that bike, I would've agreed with you 100%. However, after running one of his, I can't argue his logic or building, period!!! For the price I'm getting my swinger for and my hookup, I can sell it for what I paid or possibly make a few duckets if it doesn't work out...so, I'm going on his advice.

Tell your builder to join the board and lurk too, maybe he'll learn something and give you some proper and correct advice as well. Mike, You're telling us your builder knows his stuff. Based on what you are telling us...as passed onto you by your builder, we are ALL telling you he is wrong. Either he is wrong, or you misinterpreted what he told you and you told us the wrong info. Either way...it's wrong....and we're trying to help you...constructively... If you come asking for advice, and then defend your builder and don't heed ANY of our advice, just how do you think we're going to react? You can ask us, or you can tell us. But you can't ask and then tell us. ::

Cool beans...sorry to question. I was actually just trying to save you problems if that was the case...that's all. Guy I'm helping out bought an 87 banshee frame, supposed 2000 or newer motor, but someone put all older electrical plugs on it, ... It's not adding up... Free bump!! Nice little bike!

Never to be seen again. Or, into an open container of oil, coolant, gas...etc., no matter where in the garage it happens to be, it will find it. :yelrotflmao:

Had a buddy that always tells this story...same lines. Union Carpenter, apprenticeship school. Teacher asked what a 1/4 inch was. First student said it's a unit of measurement. Wrong. Second one said it's more than 1/8 inch, less than 1/2 inch. Wrong. Third one said, "1/4 inch, why it's close enough..."....CORRECT!!! Always thought that was funny....

My thoughts exactly....except for the timing key. IMO they're junk...plus non adjustable. A plate costs 10 or 15 bucks more, and is fully adjustable. Pipes, Carbs, Intake, Porting, compression...etc., dictate how high your engine can rev...NOT the ignition. 4 strokes, however....are different.

Absolutely Travis. Probably not before LS ride, IF I can make it. Trying like hell to finish my build, get seat time, and square away funds.... I dropped my frame, cases and hubs at the powder coaters Saturday...so, hopefully have it back this weekend. There's a 300ft Sand drag 2 hours from home I like to go to, pretty much every other weekend during the latter part of next year. It's in Grand River Racing's backyard, pretty much. Met Andy in person up there once...and made a LOT of good friends from there as well. I ran a best of 4.7 on my old 4 mil, and consistent 4.9's, that was with a FULL frame, stock clutch, stock tranny, gas, etc. and a FAT boy at the controls... I'm hoping with a lightened JArm frame, 10 mil, alky, lockup and override to pull 4 teens or low 4 twentys. Next the pilot will need to diet...LOL...damn those Krispy Kremes.... I'm going with a big arm and a lot of paddles....so I'm going to be learning how to ride this thing all over again...the only thing I'm using off the old one is tires, some controls and plastics. Other than that...EVERYTHING is either brand new or taken from another bike!! Should be fun buddy!!!

been meaning to ask you how your build was going...mine's coming along pretty good!!! can't wait myself!

Exactly what I was thinking....you're only gonna do more damage and make it cost more $$ doing that... Best of luck, fixing the shee and with the new job!!!

Just because your mechanic can build a drag bike, that doesn't translate into overall knowledge, period. Besides...I'm no genius, but...that looks like a FOUR STROKE drag bike to me. That doesn't mean a thing when it comes to 2 strokes...night and day difference. I'd get a new builder...and/or a refund. Send it out to someone that knows what they are doing, not just one that wrenches on drag bikes.... A banshee will NEVER be a bottom end monster unless you neuter the fuck out of it, but you surely can get more bottom out of one than you have...as said. As soon as someone told me you only need to weld the crank if you're going to be jumping, I would've politely smiled, thanked them...and ran...not walked out of their shop. ::

Agreed..check basket, inner and outer hubs and the adjustment. If those are all fine, nature of the beast. My basket, inner and outer were brand new, perfectly adjusted on my 4 mil...and in gear if I revved it way up with the clutch pulled in...it would lurch a tad.

Doesn't matter. The gauge has a check valve....so, it'll only hold as much PSI as the motor can generate....and stay there.

Not to be a smart ass...but... Is that nose piece and seat original and original color? 85 and 86 had black seat and nose cones, and the seat was straight cut in back. (I know because I had one) 87 and up had blue or other color seat (one year had the fugly speckled seat), and the seat was a T seat at the back?

Sorry....I've got too much money invested in mine (I know...a TON of other people do too, as in their race cars...) to let someone dropping their arms, instant replay and an "estimate" of lengths given make me lose my bike. Put some lights and timers up...and I'd be game.... Fair starts and the clocks don't lie.... Sorry, but I think most of you agree, most races are won in the start. A guy dropping his arms just don't cut it for me when it comes to the possibility of me losing my bike. For fun in the dunes...yeah, let's do it. But when money or a bike is at stake, sorry...I wouldn't take that chance!!!

Im trying to get the pic to work now PM me your email address. I created a simple and easy document to shrink and host photos for forums.

I agree 100%. Don't listen to Toomey on their site about their jetting. I ran my BONE STOCK motor with either pod filters OR their 1 into two foam with outerwear, it made no difference in my jetting, but I was at 330 or 340 main with them. I guarantee you....unless he's at 4000 to 5000 feet, 280 with no airbox will be lean and that motor will melt. Guarantee it. I have jetted quite a few bikes with T5 pipes and no airbox. The Toomey site says use the 280 main for less than 2500 feet ( I think) and 270 for over... Sorry...anyone tuning a banshee knows that anything larger than 1000 to 1500 feet change in elevation at the same temps requires a jet change.... CSR...if 280's are fine, why are you running 300's in yours?

I agree...alternate the clutch springs, 3HD and 3 stock. Do NOT overtighten them (I think it's 7.5 ft. lbs of torque) Get a brand new cable, get a new perch to remove the parking brake garbage, get a block off plate, and get an ez pull lever. I put a brand new clutch with 3/3 springs, new cable and EZ pull lever on my buddy's 98. Nice and easy, like a 125 dirt bike almost!!! Run some WD 40 down that new cable before you put it on too....