dajogejr

Selling for my friend. 275.00 Shipped to USA w/ Fed Ex Confirmation. This arm fits 04 and 05 450R Hondas. It has skid plate and chain stay brackets/holes. It might fit 06 and 07 bikes, but...they are 1 3/4" longer than the older bikes, so...it'd be a waste if it does in fact fit. Please PM me with any questions...

PM Machwon on here. He is Bob @ R&B racing. He sells a complete leak down tester for a banshee. Or...you could drive around to hunt down parts on your own... I think I had 20cc domes in my 4 mil, 185PSI is what I had.

Yeah, with that much pop, anything less than 110 would be crazy not to run...

You'd be crazy not to jump on these if they're still available. Sand them down, paint 'em black.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=79183

I'd bump your main two sizes...then check the plugs from there.

Honestly.... I'd run the plate at 5 to 8, set the Dyna on curve 3....and run 110 octane. It will rip...flat out.

Trying to off a +2 T Dub racing swinger for my buddy. He went with a 4 over arm. It has all brackets for chain stay, skid plate, etc. It is for the arm only, no bearings, seals, carrier, etc. Used one year. Black. I believe he's looking to get 150 to 200 for it...and I will post up pics later.

One of the reasons I wish Lee would get off his arse and assign a few mods to this board. I'm not a HUGE fan of E2S...but what has that got to do about your for sale thread?? nothing, it doesn't...not one bit. Plus...I've offered help on that site, and quite a few members have been appreciative of that... I have one huge pet peeve....shitting on others for sale threads. Another bump for ya Steve...great guy to do biz with!!!!

Yes...I did have to get off my lazy arse, pull the drain plug on my water pump plate (nice to have with aftermarket cylinders) and add some antifreeze to it. Then I started it up and let it run for 5 minutes to circulate. It was tough work I tell you...but somehow I made it through..... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

You need to leak down and compression test that motor. Your jetting is close enough...dare I say...lean enough to where it shouldn't be spitting oil/fuel all over... Then check all the electrics to make sure it's getting a solid spark.

Dynojet. That's a 20 mil DM setup, very, very capable of those numbers on alky. I sure wouldn't run a 6 speek override in it...though. I can't believe they wrapped it in Matoon cases but left helical gears on it... Like putting whipped cream on horseshit...LOL.

I have a metal tech aero tube on mine Dave, very nicely done...nice fab work and the chrome is nice, too. If you're over on Planet Sand, PM low900rr. Justin makes nice arms out of chromoly for very reasonable...and he can get it chromed, PC'd.... He did the lightening work for JT (badassbanshee479's) bike...and does very nice work.

Having issues with my 10 mil too. Did you bother to check the squish when you put the motor back together, possible that's too tight. 180 is a good PSI to run on alky...if your squish is ok. Leaking coolant will cause it to lean out real fast. I burned up a ground strap first time out this year. I personally think it's my cool head, warped... I'm gonna have it checked out to make sure the ORing grooves are good, and it's completely flat. My Noss head ran like a top on my 4 mil last year on gas...all day long. I've had nothing but coolant leaking problems this year...

Straight distilled water, with some food coloring. All you need, especially with alky...

At this point...you've got the trail porting and milled head. Pipes won't be a HUGE difference. Try some PT mids, FMF Fatty's or some Pro Circuit pipes. I doubt they'd be a HUGE difference, though. I'd also think about getting your flywheel shaved and advancing your timing!!

First I'd see what Jim recommends you jetting it at. Second, PM or wait for Wesw to respond. He's got jetting Jim's motors down pretty pat and I'm sure he can help!!! Good luck!!

Are the air screws turned out less than 1/2 a turn? If not...the bigger pilots won't help....

I agree with these cats. The 2 into one carb kit and manifold is pricey... I'd rather spend that money on a timing plate and maybe shaving a little off the head for more compression, but not too much to where you can stay with pump gas. .020 would probably be safe!!! Shaved head and timing plate will set you back less than 100 bucks, while the 1 into 2 carb setup is easily 3 to 4 times that.

Yeah, run it till it don't run is great advice if you have deep pockets and you don't mind a total tear down... I would pull the top end off. Have the cylinders and pistons measured or mic'd. Just because they have crosshatches doesn't mean they're within spec. Hone and rings along with a top end gasket kit will set you back less than 100. However, for about 200...you could have the top end bored, fresh pistons, rings, wrist pins and all new gaskets and know you have a tight motor. You need to do something now...it really depends on how things actually measure out, not how they "look"... The fact that it still runs is a good thing...don't wait...it only gets more expensive.

I bet if you took the slides out, gently went over the edges on it with some real fine paper, sprayed them down with cleaner...then put 'em back in you'd be ok. It is CRITICAL you do not tighten down the aftermarket carb caps any more than "snug" by hand, use the hold down elbows to hole them in place. I've had a set or two stick on me just because I channel locked down the cap...you don't need to...

A little pipe coloring is normal.. Excess fuel built up in the pipes could make it change a bit of color...too.

I can tell you right now if you're running 190 to 200PSI 100 octane gas isn't going to cut it... he may be shaving off .080 from the head, but he's also recutting the squish angle, etc...and oringing it. A stock head cut properly and Oringed is a great setup.

With 185PSI in each cylinder, unless you see obvious signs of cracking or peeling, I don't even think I'd hone it...just let it rip. If anything, hone and rering it....I don't think I'd go that far, though. The reason your ran out of fuel is another issue...though. As in a WOT run and the carbs emptied...or the tank ran out??? I'd focus on fixing that first...Nikasil is about 250ish to get it stripped, cleaned and replated.

7 mil is a waste of money, IMO. If you go bigger than 4 mil, you will have to trench the cases. Are you planning on running stock cylinders, aftermarket cylinders? A 7 mil and 10 mil crank are the same price...as well. If it's gonna be drag only, alky is the ONLY way to fly.... Get your stock head cut for an Oring. Get a pair of used 39PWK snomobile carbs, pickup a fuel pump. You won't need an expensive pingel valve or bigger volume float bowls... Override and lockup tranny is the only way to fly.

How do your plugs look? Your jetting seems a little rich to me...