dajogejr

First question...how much $$ you budget to spend? And since you're in Ionia...get your ass to the Clarksville Sand Drags next Saturday the 4th and have some fun. Bring paddles...or if you need some, someone usually has a spare set they could bring. Let me know if you're interested... Beware though...going to the track has been known to give you an itch. The itch to go bigger, faster...and cost you more $$... We've formed our own self help group, we meet at the track every few weeks...LOL.

Something else is wrong. After 3 turns or so...you're passed the adjustment range. Check to make sure the choke tube is in place, and make sure the carb slides are in the right carbs...the half moon-shaped cutaway is facing the airbox side. Check sync on the slides while you're at it....

No...you really don't. If you want one...I have one on top of my tool box. Consider yourself warned. 15 shipped.

Pic please....we'll go from there.

If you actually :kiss: wanted help :ermm: learn to :ninja: use :verymad: a :yucky: comma :shoothead: instead :beer:

Alrighty guys...I'm going to let you in on a little secret. tunebite. Search yourself, all I'm gonna say....

I bought them for my 4 mil cubs, still using them on the 10 mil. Just makes sense based on design...and I have a bigger motor. I can't tell you how much if at all, since I never dyno'd before or after....and I too did a bunch of mods at one time.

The alba sparky trick is a screen they sell with "USFS Forestry approved" screens for spark arrestors... I've heard mixed results on this one...some say they work, but don't last. Others at Silver Lake dunes (they require spark arrestors) say the DNR hasseled them big time. To get back to the poster....jet kits IMO are a waste...too generic. If you have just pipes and reeds, with an airbox and a lid...260 to 280 is probably where you'll end up on the main. If you removed the air box lid, 270 to 300 is gonna be the main. Here's how you check...but you MUST follow the instructions. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

He is going to if I have anything to say about it... :thumbsup:

All day, every day buddy....and work has been SLOW lately. I even have to bring my own pillow...

If you're running an airbox, with or without the lid, put the stock 25 pilots in. If you have no airbox and are running pod filters, put the 27.5 pilot in. 30 is too big, period.

I think they charge between 7 and 12 bucks per blade to repair them. However, I've been told if they are triple buffs, you can't. I'm not 100% certain on that one...ask 'em.

Spyder grips are the most comfortable grips I've ever used...and they're 12 bucks or so. The best grip glue is 3M weather stripping adhesive, it's nasty and yellow...otherwise known as monkey snot. It's the same stuff as Renthal Grip glue...but 1/4 of the price. You can get a 3 to 5 oz tube for a finski...whereas the Renthal branded stuff is 6 or 7 bucks for 1 or 1.5 ounces. Put a little bead on the inside of the grip, keep turning it as you put in on the bars so the glue evens out....and I promise no slip...let it dry for a couple hours. That shit is amazing!!!

At 110 compression, as said...pull the top end, get the cylinders fresh...and ported. Most builders like to port the cylinders then bore them, in case they have an oops and mark the cylinder... Now is the time to do it and do it right!!

Has he gotten back to any of you? I've got a cool 250 waiting if either of you don't want them....

That kit came with the showtime knife set I bought...I use it to clear the sink drain at my house. Looks like the zip ties are the only thing worth a shit in there, I'd bet NOS is happy about them stealing their "Sneeky Pete" name for a kit....

96 was white...same color scheme as the original 87, with the exception of a black seat on the 96, red seat on the 87.

Two things cause this. Float set incorrectly, and/or dirty needle and seat. Either one calls for a carb removal, tear down and inspection/cleaning. You answered your own question. it has a radiator leak...figure out where. My guess is a seal in the cases or a head gasket. Look at the plugs for clues.

Is this the same bike phatboyz on Planet Sand is asking about as well??

Buy a used one and buy NGK replacement caps for it. PM Nyuk, I'd bet he has one or two laying around.

PM majicmike. He sells an insert...I think it's around 100 bucks, but I'm not 100% certain. You will still have to machine your stock cover to remove the side, then epoxy the insert in place. This is not a lexan lockout cover, just polished aluminium. I have Mike's lockout AND cover on mine...it works... Next question is this...what do you have done to your bike to need a lockout?

That guy makes nice parts, I've seen some in person. I almost bought one of his kits...but, it was a waste for me since I don't have front brakes, a stock throttle or a stock clutch cover for the insert.

You simply have too much time and/or money on your hands. Those covers are built for lockup clutch. Your bike isn't even close to needing a lockup clutch...it would be for looks only. And then...when you lined up against guys that need a lockup...you'd get smoked and get laughed at... IMO, it would be a total and utter waste of money. Direct Drive makes the cover...and they're pricey.... You can buy a lot better performance parts for the few hundred it'll cost to get this cover.

My advice is get the wires to compliment the coil. The grounding straps sure are a nice touch...and they're not that expensive I don't believe.

Make sure your rollers on top/bottom of the chain on the frame are there and can roll as well. 9 times out of 10, it's worn sprockets/chain or mis-adjustment.