dajogejr

I'd buy that explanation... Bairdy....the problem you're gonna find is someone who will ship out of state for a reasonable price. I can have the crank trued and welded for you, if you do all the legwork for pricing shipping, etc, and include that...

Holeshot XCRs. Hook pretty good, wear well...and are 6 ply tires.

Partially sunny and 76, might be the best riding weather yet.... http://www.weather.com/weather/local/USMI0...om=recentsearch

Sorry to hear it Steve... I worked for Kmart/Penske Auto Centers from high school (93) until the day they shut their doors in April of 2002. Worked my way up from literally changing oil, management...finally a nice corporate job in computers... That all crashed real quick...and it sucked...I feel your pain. Was out of work for a about a year, off and on before I found the job I have now. And that is always in the back of my mind...believe me. You think it's bad out there...C'mon to Michigan. We have the worst economy in the country...due to the Auto Industry taking a HUGE dump. Buyouts, layoffs, plant shut downs....the big three really hit home in MI...they literally are our economy... Housing market is in the dumps, If your lucky your house has only depreciated 10% or so in the last 2 or 3 years... There are tonz of people that bought way over their heads and are either losing them or taking triple, yes...triple digit losses on them... Keep your chin up, Penske shutting down was the best thing to happen to me....it just took a while to get going again...

They clear the clutch arm, unless you have a Cub/Cheetah/twister...then you don't need them. Anyone that can show positive Dyno AND track time proof to state they will and can do otherwise, now is the time to pipe up. When I had spacers and V3's, I had to machine/dremel the four inside corners to the cage would actually fit between the reeds and the cylinder. You want the reeds and intakes as close as possible to the pistons....

It's an older, smaller design PWK...probably 28 to 30mm...I've seen 'em before.

Possibility is always there. But there are plenty of guys with 10 mils on alky and a TON more track time in sand and practice in 300ft that are barely cracking 4.0... All I'm saying is just because you have a 10 mil in a drag frame doesn't mean shit....it's gotta be setup right, and you gotta ride it....that's all.

Once you run sand, you'll realize that's easier said than done. It's paddles, rollout, type of paddle (hauler, extreme, ripper, etc.) air pressure, gearing, tuning your lockout...learning to ride all over again. Again...sand is a whole new animal...I welcome you to come on up and give it a shot. I promise I will leave my ego at the gate, and we'll have some fun.

Most common causes are not enough octane, (too much compression and/or timing), lean jetting or an air leak... Could be a bad crankcase, but a leak down test done properly will expose that...

I've done that, even bought a tad bit longer and stiffer spring. The rebuild kit is the way to go...it will last longer!

Well..if you had a "FAST" motor ...that would make one of us. Jeff's never touched my 10 mil, it came out of the box from Dan Hull @ A&S, off the shelf, box stock never touched, and I ported it myself. Thanks for pointing out 660 feet is 160 more than 500... Like I said, I know what's done to your bike, I've seen the posts, I've seen your questions, I've seen the videos....you know I'm on PS and HQ all day long.... Bring it to Clarksville or WMSD by Silver Lake...and we'll have to see. I've seen quite a few 3.8 and 3.9 bikes run at the track...sorry, but yours as is aint' gonna do it...as is now. Not saying it can't...just saying as is now it won't. And unless you're 130 to 150 lbs, I don't think you're gonna hit 3's on gas without NOS or nitro... This is not a Passion vs. FAST thing, or anything like that. It's a "I've seen the bike run on video" and i'm saying it's not gonna do it...that's all....

Deal with Lane at Vitos...and you can't go wrong. He's a good guy!

No offense, but after seeing multiple videos of your bike run on here and PS...I think you have a little work to do... 10 mil guys around here run mid to low 6's at well over 100MPH in 1/8 mile (660 feet) and that's still on stock cut frames, not drag frames. We've all got "more in it" but until it "comes out"....it is what it is....

to be honest, if you get the rebuilt kit, which is cheap...it'll stay rattle free for a year or so. Just make sure you get the spring, ball and bolt to hold it together... Grease it good, too. Otherwise, no permanent fix other than a billet kick starter or duct tape and super glue...LOL..

Let me rephrase above...unless you're gonna build a stroker, get a stocker trued and welded... If the magnets inside are rattling, get a new flywheel. It normally won't cause it to detonate, but it'll certainly run like shit. How much compression were you running with the head, how much timing, and what kind of gas (octane?)

I'm sure someone has paddles for you, even if they're not top notch, it's still seat time. Are you cases leaking? If not...leave well enough alone. You've seen my "chain broke" cases....they still work just fine. Otherwise...you know already where you can get cases, you saw 4 or 5 sets stacked up in the corner.... Unless they're leaking bad...leave 'em!!

Toomey has never had a plot to upgrade from T5 to T6. They've always had a line to upgrade from T1 through T4 to upgrade to T5. Still do on their site. So Bruce... You've never owned or ridden a banshee with T6 pipes, you've only used T5...so...you have what to base your statement on? Personally...no, I've never OWNED a shee with T6, jetted and rode plenty of them though... They are a better pipe....until you get radical with port timings, etc.

He has a stock bike....T6 is the better pipe for now... And I fully agree with you on pipe delivery... My bike is idling down the return lane, in the staging...or WOT for a few seconds. I have no use for a pipe like what you use, just as you have no use for mine...agree with you 100% on that.

Been my goal to hit a 3.999 as well... The bike went on a SERIOUS diet this year, the rider might have to as well... I think with a bar, some good porting and a 10 per hole, mine should be able to as well, next year...LOL.. Brady, JT, Shane and I all run a within a tenth or two of each other... JT and Shane having a 4 mil, Brady having a stock stroke and myself having a 10. Strictly on paper, my bike should win...it's lighter than any of their bikes, and has the biggest motor. Clearly...that isn't the case. Brady is no light weight either....and his little stock stroke cub gives us fits all day long. Just goes to show you...it's all about setup and seat time. Shane has said time and time again, he's just rode the hell out of his bike at SL...just getting seat time without changing anything, and it shows.... Setup is what it's all about. Your bike, when done, could very well be capable of a sub 4 second run...and I honestly think that.... But you've got a TON of work ahead of you...none of us know it all. But all of us can help and will.

Mike, you have Roger mixed up with someone else...I think I know who too... I assure you alcoholbanshee is not him....and what he is saying 100% correct. Whether it was sound advice...an extra kill switch at the track for someone who didn't have one, a splash of methanol or offering to ride a bike of his for some fun...and anything in between, he's been there for us.. Not only a fellow racer, but a good friend as well.

I bet he could've had a sub 1 second 60 foot time from that John Force burnout.... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

1. Keep practicing using the rear brake only, John Force... 2. Building a mid 4 second banshee is easy...every tenth from there on out takes money and time. 3. Let us know what chain you'll be running, I figure at that rate you're breaking them and buying master links, the stock will go way up.... 4. Shoulda, coulda, woulda, etc.... While I'd rather talk about the bike I'm gonna build (BIG DM Cylinder) the reality is I'm riding the bike I have now...no sense talking up a bike that doesn't yet exist.... :thumbsup:

I won't give RDZ my money...I have the one from JL Lucky on my bike...works just fine, and a few bucks cheaper too. I mounted it to the lower shock mount on my bike to clean it up...and, let's face it... Chances are you'll take off your footpeg to get to the ignition at one point or another. But the rear shock? Probably don't take that off too often. Looks better...anyways. I run a 14 over arm, that's a whole lotta chain...

Actually...4.303 at Albright...4.32 @ Bobs...still have the slips... I think you've got just a hair more seat time and tuning under your belt on that bike...(not to mention top ends and nikasil jobs...)however... If it runs as good as Evan says it did at the track this weekend (sans rain delay... ) I think I'm gonna have a little more for ya...never know. It's all good...if anything, JT and I push each other to go faster each time out....God help either one of us if the other goes on a diet.... :thumbsup:

Listen to this man. When it comes to rods, balls and keeping them lubed, he's the King (or should I say...Queen) :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: