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D'Oh....yeah, now I remember... Good looking out Snop..thanks. Get yourself a big pair of snap ring pliers, those bastards are tough mofos...

If they are stock fibers, which...sounds like they are...he has to use the rubber rings. They will have too much play if not. All you have to do is rotate each one roughly 30 degrees. They don't have to be exact or precise...just close enough.

I had XCRs as well...great tire, but when I trail rode, it was more or less pretty open fire road/open trail kinda stuff. The tight, twisty rocky stuff isn't for me. My buddy had Razor 2s on his bike, and if I had to choose...I'd probably go with the Razrs...they are meaty som bitches for sure... I know the XCRs I had were 6 ply, not sure if the 2's are, might be something to consider given your flat problems as of late....

I don't remember if they have set screws or rivets, but they are rebuildable. I get the good old pink corning home insulation, remove the paper, and roll the silencers in that. Cheaper, works great... You may have to drill rivets, but it's been a few years since I've had my T5's, don't remember to be honest.

On the inside of the fiber plates, does it have rubber rings? do the steel plates have a tab on the outer edge of them?

I think 30s will be a fine choice for now and some mods coming up. There's a fine line between waiting for it to be worn, and waiting for something to break. Usually...it ain't pretty when it breaks. So just check compression here and there and listen to your motor closely...

Yep...but I got a guy local in MI that we ride with that is his family's business, polishing parts, etc. Probably gonna go with him since he's local, but...I appreciate the offer. Just gotta find the money to get her done. The go fast parts are gonna come first, then the bling...

Stock or aftermarket clutch?

damn...that was good!!! Looks good Greg...looks like I'll be shipping my stuff off for Kiel to paint one of these days as well...

Jesse...you interested in a set of 39PWKs setup for alky. Fuel pump, gravity fed...does it matter?

TZ on the PTO side is a good idea....if you have the cabbage, TZ on both ends is nice. But you're fine with an OEM or maxload on the stator side as well....

What about Pizza? That's blasphemous without mentioning Pizza...all your food groups in one shot...

Shitty...it still stays on the bottom of the page...scroll down... http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...tab=AllFeedback

It's on now gangwar....

Greg told me... He's working on a best seller: "Pirate Hookers. How to let them toss your salad and still retain your dignity" Volume 1.... :biggrin:

You can use a bench grinder as well, CAREFULLY....the left carb is a bear because of the fuel inlet being so close. The tap cuts new threads in the aluminium...just a soft, steady...easy pressure. Aluminium is so soft, it cuts threads like butter... Remember, once you get it started, 1/2 turn in, back it out...you'll feel the resistance when cutting new threads, and it'll be totally opposite when you're backing it out to clean the already cut threads.. Honestly, no big deal...just use caution and clean them very, very thoroughly when done...

I get the Italian from my Mom's side... I know firehead likes to have his Italian salad tossed.....shhhh....

Because the hole already exists, you're just punching it all the way through, this is very easy to do. As said, put a small screwdriver handle, wooden dowel or something in the carb so you don't nick the other side. I've done plenty removals with a hand drill and a open end/box end wrench or small adjustable... Make sure you use WD40 or other lube/cutting agent when taping it...aluminum is very soft stuff. I highly recommend disassembling the WHOLE carb removing all the brass. Any of those shavings can plug the small holes in a jet and leave you second guessing yourself for a long time. I use an angle grinder with a scotchbrite pad to sand down and flatten the boss out, then drill and tap it. Use hot soapy water to clean them, and compressed air to blow it all out. Take your time, really...it's no big deal. If you are really, really that nervous about it, PM me...and you can send them to me. No charge, just pay for shipping to and from me, I'll have them both done in less than an hour.

I'm not sure what to think of that...and I'm Italian... Sounds like if you want to be pampered and have things handed to you, given to you...or done for you, being Italian is the way to be. I can assure you not so in my case, with the exception of my mother. She comes over, or I go over there...enough food to feed a damn army. That one is dead spot on... Sorry...my personal beliefs are if you live at home till 28 and two weeks before you get married, in the US...you will never make it. Of course there are exceptions to every rule, but some of the most powerful and sharpest people in this country barely made it through high school... I'll take street smarts and common sense over book smarts and a piece of paper from some college/university.. Sorry, I'm off my soap box now....

What was the air gap...and how much was the variance?

I was just playin with Mark.... Water straight out the tap works fine...alky runs cool enough, water does the job fine!! Plus..any asphalt tracks won't let you run antifreeze, it's straight water only I'm pretty sure, depending on how picky they are for tech inspection.

Most race fuel stations around here already have Stabil or other sort of product like that in their tanks. Some places around here actually fill them with Race gas in the summer, kerosene in the winter... My advice if you're not going to run it all winter is drain the carbs and gas tank, remove each plug and put a cap full of your premix oil in each cylinder to coat the cylinders. Might even mix up a batch of like 16:1 fuel/oil and run the bike to warm it up to get the crank bearings all lubed up for storage... Does it say on the Stabil packet if it's compatible with 2 stroke oil premix? I haven't used it in years....

Porting won't decide the need for race fuel or higher octane...compression and timing will. And compression usually dictates the need for higher octane more so than timing, unless it's an extreme amount of timing. get a pair of 30mm or 33 mm carbs and a dune port....you'll be riding a whole new bike, promise. Don't go larger than 33 unless you get really aggressive porting and want to drag race more than dune/trail the bike. 34PJs would actually be a good carb, too.

Great question...(I'm serious, not being a smart ass) Cranks are pressed together. However, as with anything else...any item that is not properly secured can come apart. Throw in the stress of an engine running 10K RPM, well...it doesn't paint a pretty picture. Cranks are welded for insurance against separating. The hot rods crank have a very cheap, flimsy weld on them from the factory. Several reputable builders have reported this factory weld not being sufficient and the cranks still coming apart. My buddy JT (badassbanshee479) has a healthy running 4 mil cub, and back when it was on gas, his came apart too. Having both the inner and outer webs welded assures they won't separate..

Take your engineering hat off and explain to me what surfactent means.... Is that even a word? LOL... Water is what we ALL run around here. If you pop an oring, you can do more damage to your head by sucking coolant than you can sucking water.