dajogejr

I bought the first one, fastener guy...used all of his kit on my drag motor/chassis with no issues. They are not "show quality" polished, but they are nice. I used the motor bolts/nuts, suspension....no issues at all. They do not make swingarm bolts, upper J or A Arm bolts or foot peg bolts. The rest is all there, labeled nicely... Since I have a drag bike, I didn't end up using half the bolts (things like plastic mounts, front brake bolts, etc.) I sold all the remaining to bigboybanshee.... I bought three kits at once, two for a banshee and one for a YFZ, I think he gave me each kit for 80 or 85 and free shipping cause I bought a few. I would have no reservation to use this kit again... Here's the tip, you really should use a thread lubricant/sealer on all of these, Stainless nuts/bolts have a tendency to gall or strip if they have the smallest nip, knick or booger on either thread. Just a little food for though. Drop or two per fastener, you'll be fine!!

You two stupid asses just don't get it, do you? There's this little thing called Theory....and this thing called reality. EVERYTHING you two are saying is based on theory.... I'm giving you the answer (as is EVERYONE ELSE) based on reality....reality of our own personal experience. You guys win, I obviously can't beat the smart into you or the stupid out of you... knock yourself out...balance that clutch lockout up...do whatever makes you happy. Polish a boost bottle, weigh your foot pegs, make sure they're balanced, I'd hate to see you have ill handling as a result. Make sure you match the knobbies on your tires up side to side. I'd hate for you to have 1/64 an inch of tread on the ground for one side more than the other, the results could be catastrophic.... here's the bottom line. We got one guy that came here to ask a question who already had it made up in his mind what he was going to do. So...stop reading this post, stop telling us...after YOU asked the question, why you're right and we're wrong....and go do it. Then bring us back all your proof as to how you're right...we'll be right here waiting....and waiting.... The other guy is just stating theory based on his lab environment....but does not have actual experience with said device. People have told him the engine as a whole is a mis-balanced NON-perfect rotating assembly, to try and perfect every gram of that is worthless and pointless. You will see NO results or benefits....period. And everyone is saying the same thing...and we can all read just fine. PLEASE....GO BALANCE your clutch. Don't post anymore....don't waste your breath...you have a time consuming important mission ahead of you. Balancing your lockout down to the tenth of a gram. Then please post back your ground breaking results....we're all breathless with anticipation. :: ::

I will get you pictures tonight Jared...we can go from there. I'd really like these for the track and comparison to my Shearers.... Talk at ya later..

Ok...here's the bottom line. Since you obviously have nothing better to do with your time than waste it, go ahead. Balance it. You won't see a difference, you won't get better bite, it won't make your engine last longer...but mentally, if that puts you ahead....go ahead beefcake...whatever floats your boat. Personally, cleaning the air filter or checking your tire pressure and alignment will net you better results. Texas... You still keep saying you're the expert....I still keep saying you don't even own this part. Obviously we're never gonna agree on your level of expertise on a part you don't even own or use. If the readers ONLY read that statement there, that's all that matters... I gotta go watch some ice form on my window sill, then I'm gonna watch some paint dry. I think they're better uses of my time.....

Yep...just the caps. Get the NGK ones...very, very common on stock coils and very easy to fix...

Bolt it together and see how it runs. When it comes to porting, it's not always how it looks... You have to measure port heights, duration, shape...as well as a few other things. Run it...see how you like it...

Rock a mic back and forth until you get your widest point, measure it at a few different heights and both sides of the piston (pin to pin, exhaust to intake side) 64mm is stock...but of course a worn piston will read a little under.

Food for thought....second pic is with one out each side before I swapped rims to make it REAL narrow.

Jeez...seems like I just left this one at PS... Out of frame RDZs are 575 bare metal, show chrome OOF Shearers are 600. I've had one out each side and my current two out the left side, they're out a little past my rear tires, but I have mine skinny as can be with a drag axle. I can tell you with two out one side...the left front tire will rub the pipe if you turn it all the way....

Tell 'em to put up a big purse, I'll ship you my bike...bam...LOL. Wish I was closer to ya homie, I'd borrow your slicks and give it a shot at least!

Yep...no kidding. I was fine with the Banter until Super QA man had to mention my family or "shutting my pie hole"...so...piss on him and his buddy across the pond. I don't take that shit lightly....

Well put...and you can help the next guy as well. I'm a drag racer, so syncing my carbs isn't as important as it would be a trail/dune rider. However, the tool I bought from Jeff @ FAST is priceless, takes the guess work out of syncing the carbs... I just came back to this thread after skimming it...so, if that's been said, my apologies.

Actually it's very very easy. I read what people like you write, then I just dumb myself down to your level...and it just takes off from there. Although, when it comes to utter stupidity....I usually lose to people like you based on your vast experience.... So...good job. You're number 1. Tell you what...check out the riding section, every time I'm gonna be somewhere to ride I PROMISE to post it up so you can "talk" to me and you can try to shut my pie hole. First you talk about my family, then you're subtly threating me... Lab rat, you better bring more than your extensive knowledge from "first hand experience" if you plan on taking me on, any way you desire... How can you keep saying you're stating FACTS when you DON'T OWN A LOCKOUT?????????? That's pretty much like me calling up W. with no political or government experience and telling how to run the country. Ok...maybe that's a bad example...but, the point is what it is. You see my bike in my sig, it'll look the same. dajogejr is on a sticker in the back window of my Dodge RAM. Make no mistake about who I am and where I'll be....

I thought you were gone...don't you have nuts and bolts to weigh or something...gram-master? Aww...you're checking up on your buddy...that's cute. :wub:

No problem...I got all night. How can I drag you through the dirt for stating their own experience....when, wait...YOU DON'T HAVE any... And yes, when you talk out your ass about something you don't know anything about...guess what, you're getting called out. You're welcome to state your opinion... but how much weight do you think it's gonna carry with no practical experience... And my Family? Who's being a bitch?? Good news... My Family owns stock in Hooked On Phonics...looks like stock just went up...as long as there is people like you, their retirements are set. We also own shares in cry baby whine towels, looks like that's going to be an up and comer as well.... People like me think on our feet from our own life experiences, we give people like you a long white coat, a few test tubes and some sample racks to hide you in a corner to keep you from embarrassing yourself. Looks like someone wasn't doing their job and you got out....back to the lab, rat boy....

You ask questions, you're given opinions from actual experience and knowledge of these bikes, then you tell us that you're right and we're wrong... You can either ask us how to do something, or tell us how to...you can't do both. Then you get offensive when I backup and support what I said...and not only me, but everyone else on the post as well. We are all wrong, you're right....sorry to contradict what you already made your mind up to do. Good riddance....

Perfect example of brains vs. knowledge.... I guess that's what that piece of paper gets you from studying out of a book... I don't see how you have anything to say since you don't even have a lockup.... But, let's entertain that thought. So...based on your vast QA and QC experience for a product you don't even own...tell me how driving a bike down a road with bumps at varying RPMs (shift points, etc.) would let you get the same exact amount of fluid on each finger (again...on a device you don't own) with all these variables. Where did I say the fluid had a different viscosity or makeup?? (By the way...there's this thing called spell check. I'd hate to see you turn in TPS reports with your spelling and grammar) Why do you true and weld a crank? Simple... You true it to keep it in phase so it is balanced and firing/completing cycles at the same time. You weld it to keep it that way.... I'm sure your vast QA and QC experience would tell you the differences in stress levels between the combustion chamber and it's directly related parts are more important to this scrutiny than secondary drive train. Who grain matches pistons? Is this something you read while on the shitter from your monthly NASCAR or Formula 1 mag? In that case, I'm sure they do... There's just a bit of difference those and a twin two stroke bike. I gave me opinions, I gave my support to those opinions...and facts based on my experience with a product I own and have used. When you can say you own one and have used one...or designed one ...then you can speak from your QA/C experience. Until then...it's just your theory against my personal experience. Guess which one wins out.... I never saw theory at the finish line....

So...the weight on the lockup isn't considered drag...but the fluid is? Tell me...doesn't adding more weight via longer bolts or nuts create more pressure, and wouldn't having to turn the heavier weight via centrifugal force be called drag??? Ok....you're right, balance away....ride it at WOT for a long period of time, PLEASE report back all the interesting findings you come across, I'm sure the data will be priceless.

FMFs if you're interested... I can pay shipping both ways...

Yep...but you're ignoring mine. Do you have a way to regulate the amount of fluid each finger sloshes through each and every revolution? Cause you can balance the lockout, and I promise the slinging/sloshing effect will overcome any balancing you're doing.

I PM'd Kevin on PS about the clearance, from the back of the lockup to the pressure plate I THINK he said .040 clearance (when the lever isn't pulled in, obviously) but he might have said .080... Mine has .037 to .038... I'm curious to see how you like it Kevin...I'll be sitting here....waiting....LOL.

Man... I've heard of light weight piston cutting...that boy is bad ass.... Yeah, chalk that up to experience....

The only person on here telling you to do it doesn't even own a lockup.... I'm quite sure knowing NYUK's style of humor his post was a joke... Chill out...if you have that much time on your hands to shave tenths of a gram...go for it. I'll be over here watching some paint dry...feeling productive myself....

I agree to a point, but I bet the out of balance from your crank, sprockets, gears, tires, etc., play a 100% bigger role than a few tenths of a gram on a lockout....now measure the drag co-efficient of the gear oil that each finger on the lockup is slinging, suddenly those little bits of weight really are insignificant.... Unless you can somehow manage how much tranny fluid each individual lockup finger slings....down the the grams you're worried about... Not trying to sound like a smart ass, rather give you the 10,000 foot view of understanding....

With less than 2 tenths of a gram separating all 6, I wouldn't worry about it.... I agree with Dave I., there's other things wobbling in there that will definitely overshadow that....