dajogejr

I think it's an electrical problem. Ohm the stator, for the hell of it, replace the plug end caps...they are known to go bad. NGK replacements are 5 or 6 bucks a piece.

http://detroit.craigslist.org/for/607911779.html http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcy/606603279.html Go get 'em homie...

Been there and done that. When I replaced my basket on my 4 mil cub build, the old thrust washer stuck to the stock basket, I never even noticed.... Got it all back together before I had my whoops moment...

You are definately covering the basics...great job. This is not what you want to hear...but, you might have to get a little more technical on the measuring of parts. First things first, the easy things. Check the pickup gap on the flywheel/pickup. Check BOTH magnets on the flywheel, set it between .015 and .018. I would swap CDIs with a known working bike, if you can. If you swapped wires and the problem did not follow to the other side, you can probably rule out a coil. Ohm the coil leads AND the stator, just in case. Are these stock carbs or aftermarket? If stockers, no real good way to swap side to side. If they're after market, swap side to side. IS all the TORS crap completely unplugged and removed? Look for stupid things, gas cap vent pluged, screen in the fuel valve plugged. Did you leakdown check the motor? Just because it has even compression doesn't mean a head, base gasket or crank seal isn't leaking. Or that the intakes aren't leaking.... That is exactly what a leakdown tester does for you. Did you check squish on both cylinders, piston to wall clearance, ring end gap? I know it's got even compression on both sides...but, it's still possible, although unlikely.

As said on PS...55 pilots are WAY too big for that motor. smaller carbs pull fuel out of smaller jets better than larger carbs due to better velocity. Start 1.0 turns out on the air screws, 45 pilots. If it ran good on top RPMs, the mains can't be too far off...

as long as you use a little common sense putting it back together, and used the clymer to adjust everything, you'll be fine. If you're really concerned...torque down the counter shaft sprocket nut. Use a drill at a low speed setting to turn it...and click through gears. Remove the spark plugs if the top end is on...

post up a pic of the case. If it's not a load bearing part of the case, more than likely it can be welded and ground down. They're pretty resilient, believe it or not... Even if it needs a crank rebuild, fresh bore, welded cases and new pistons, you're only looking at 300 to 500 bucks. So...decide if it's worth it to part it or fix and keep it. There are so many used, quality parts for these things out there....it can be done cheaply and easily...

125 pistons have a single ring, every banshee piston I have ever used is 2 rings, 250s as well. I've done a few weedeater or small lawn mowers that have one ring, as well. Maybe it wasn't supposed to be in there, not sure...

I don't know of anyone with a drag bike that TRULY drags with a stock swinger. I think you're starting off on a bad foot right there due to weight transfer issues. PM Tedder on here, he's a nice guy and will be more than happy to give you ideas and pricing on a dual stage clutch. No offense, but we've given you ideas.. 1. Slip the clutch more 2. Longer Swinger 3. Dual stage clutch... But it seems like you're resistant to all of these ideas...I'm not sure what else to tell ya. I understand none of us are rich, and this sport costs money. If that's the case...and spending a few bucks to do this right can't be done, I'd leave it alone and as is....and deal with it. I'm sure a dual stage clutch might be a little pricey at first, but if you have to replace your clutch every month, sooner or later that will add up beyond the price of a two stage, I'd say probably within a few months..... I don't see anywhere in your sig about a lockup or override....are these options not avaiable in your racing classes? Without a lockup and override, in my opinion, a strong running banshee engine is worthless to drag race. I know you want to have a trail and drag bike, but the simple truth is you are going to have to make sacrifices for track AND trail if you're trying to do them both on the same bike....

You've been smoking from the boost bottle again, haven't you???? LOL You passed double a long time ago...I think we're into quadruple or so now...LOL. Like we talked about. Some people love 'em, some hate 'em. My friend at the track has a lot of demons with his. My other buddy I believe has run one with pretty good success...I think. I'll have to give him a call and see his toughts, if indeed he's run one.

Congrats on the purchase... Start off with a budget...what do you want to spend? I'd probably recommend keeping those pipes, they are great trail pipes. Possibly a two into one carb for bottom end punch and tuning ease, and probably bump the timing 4 degrees with a 35 dollar plate. Leave the compression as is (don't shave the head) to keep it nice and reliable on pump gas. Keep the air filter clean, fresh gas and oil, and change the tranny fluid every couple of rides. The stock motors for trail riding, general playing and everything else will last YEARS if they're taken care of. Welcome to the addiction....

dunno yet....

All depends on how big of a stick the DNR has up their ass. Normally, you're ok...but, if they're bein pricks, it will have to say USFS Forrestry approved Spark Arrestor on it. Ironic....it's Silver Lake Dunes, not silver lake forest, but...what do I know??

Ok guys, true to his word, proof in the pudding. A set of reed cages and matching intakes for me to dyno when I actually put my motor back together...LOL. Also... I got my two front head studs out of the bag. The one on the right is the acorn nuts orginally that came with the head, the one on the left is the new style he is talking about. Nicer finish, thicker quality, and you will run out of thread before you bottom these out. I'm thinking about using some for my cylinder base nuts, if they will fit...might be tough in front. Anywho...thanks Jerry, much appreciated.

The power core silencers I remember were oval shape, they make them that slip over the back...

Agreed...but the other cylinder won't run long after the first one quits...we're only talking 20 seconds of run time, if that...as much fuel as in the line.... Sounds like he ran out of fuel period, and leaned it out detonating it.

My bike is in pieces,will you guys shut up already?? LOL...

Um...yeah, I think I know "a guy" that did that...once or twice...LOL. Let me tell you from experience, if you're geared to run 300 feet and start off in 2nd gear, but accidentally leave in first, you will fry your tires, drop 3 tenths off your time and sit there for a while thinking...WTF is wrong with my bike... JT thought he was gonna own me that day...LOL...

There is only ONE small, small issue. At the end of a run...you keep on downshifting as you're coming to a stop, and I've went into Nuetral a few times, gave it some gas...and let the clutch out...only to have it go nowhere. That is the only downside, if you can even call it that....

You are 100% correct. I like N down, there is absolutely no chance to hit a false nuetral is you ever start off in 1st gear.

Tell him to use the throttle limiting screw on it until he grows some hair on his plums...

First things first, is your stock crank welded?

If you're ordering them direct from Toomey...I'd ask Stuart Toomey himself (if he even works there still, I'm pretty sure they sold out). Really though, a quick ride and a plug chop will tell you... I'd say you might have to rejet a size or two at most....just my opinion, though.

Swap the lower hose... I've had to do this with T5s and other aftermarket pipes. All you do is pop off both ends and the end that goes to the radiator, hook it to the waterpump and vice versa...and twist the hose if need be. Should be fine.

Pretty nice, actually. They have the intake piece and the cage to be used with them, I'll just have to switch over my carb boots to them. I might even just ante up and buy an extra set of boots, but it's only two bolts per side, no biggie...