dajogejr

Yeah, the story was something like he dropped off like 10 to 20 sets to get chromed, and he went back in a few weeks and NONE of them were touched. That pretty much did the old chromer in... Take a close look at mine next time we meet up...I'm very happy with it.

I would tame that compression just a hair....and have him cut you another set of cylinders. If you rarely 5th or 6th and ride primarily trails, I think a 4 mil would be a waste, unless you plan on changing your locale. If you never see 5th or 6th, that just tells me you don't have the room to let it rev...and strokers like to rev out. Why don't you spend the money on suspension and stuff, if you haven't already!!

If you need help with head, Firehead is the girl to talk to...LOL. No one can tell you that. Start with .025 off and make sure the squish/dome is recut accordingly.

Shayne...did you get your shearers before or after August/September of last year. He switched Chromers...my pipes got caught in the middle of that. He no longer offers production chrome, which...was nickel based. I think mine are pretty damn good quality...I got show chrome for production pricing from the new chromer (because it took a few extra weeks)

Yep, I got a bracket/rubber mount for my out of frames...I don't know if the weld was crappy on my OOF, or it was too solidly mounted, but I split a seam after 8 or 10 passes on mine. Hit or miss with Shearer pipes on fit. His show chrome is nice, though....

Yep...it's probably not much extra time or money (if any) to go to a 4 mil. It's a great, great overall running motor. It's not going to be a huge improvement, but...stroker motors have a little more legs on them than stock stroke. I got buddies with stock stroke and 4 mil cubs (I know, different cylinders....but hear me out). They've ridden my 10 mil and commented right away how much it really starts pulling hard and it's easier to ride rather than damn near burn the clutch out with a smaller stroke motor.... More forgiving, more power everywhere....if you have the coin to do it, now is the time!! Done with porting, a 4 mil drop in is a great mod!!!

I agree totally. But it could have multiple problems....that being one of them. It could've cold seized before, left a mark on the piston, ring or skirt...then catching a port smoked it totally... If it has 4 corner scarring, it could be an additional problem...

Well...again, if you're not willing to take the exhaust off...then yes, it's a Pain in the ass. Really, once the carbs and exhaust are removed, it's less than 10 minutes worth of work. If the bike is running fine, plugs look good, no missing, back firing, RPM raising for no reason...don't worry about it. Careful builders will compression test AND leak down test a motor before ever firing it up....it's a piece of mind AND point of reference.

WTF does blueprinting mean??? I know what it means on a car, but that is the first time I've ever heard it used on a bike...LOL... Let's see more pics. Does it have scarring in all 4 corners of the piston (four scrapes?) It could be cold seize...did you let it warm up a while before blasting off on it? Either cold seize or a ring got caught....either way, I'd be finding a new guy to help out on your bike....

Unless your builder does something radical with porting, I'd start with 155 mains and 50 pilots, CEL needle middle clip. Obviously, you'll have to tune from there.

F'in scammers....NYUK, pin this biyatch up. But be careful, caged fury might come after you....LOL.

Thanks for making this all good, I actually forgot about this. If it's ok with both members, I'd like to have this deleted. PM me if that's the case.

Did you actually run these on alky??? Where is the power jet? My buddy has two sets of 35PWKs he's like to sell, one gas, one alky...but might be interested in trading for these. You don't have a dual feed going to them or power jets for alky?? Hmm....

Split the cases... 2nd gear is the weakest gear in the cluster...

Somebody can machine those domes, you might require a thinner base gasket depending on how much they have to take off to get it to squish out right. How much compression and what timing are you running??

To be blunt... it's less than 60 bucks for a pre made tester, or you can build your own. You can use carb cleaner to test the ignition side crank seal, base gaskets and the intakes. If removing the exhaust is too much work for you, you might want to get a 4 stroke....

32:1.

How fresh is it, JT?? I might pick up 5 gallons...if you don't mind sir. No problem picking it up for Shayne O Mac if you don't make it...but you and Brent better...we might have a little race setup for Brent. You think you'll have the stinger tubes done by then, JT?? My bike is 100% ready except it might be a loud if I start it right now...LOL. I'll probably have to drain the purge gas/oil from the carbs, otherwise...I'm ready to go.

Ahh...no. If you can get a cylinder to hold 120 to 125 PSI (stock) the rings will hold 6 PSI. The leak down tester is designed to test the other parts, like base gaskets, orings, crank seals, intake seals... I would have to say the most common areas for air leaks are intake gaskets and crank seals...

#1 thing is to ask your builder which pipe they recommend for your setup, period.

I'm gonna pick up a fresh 5 for that day... I got a little over half tank in the bike left over from PS...so, I'll mix up some fresh, call it a day. Hopefully we get enough passes in.. Shayne, if you want the carrier, I say we just swap them once we get back home. To be 100% honest, I don't feel like taking mine off, putting yours on, etc., after we just got done riding and before another 2 hour ride home. I'm gonna slap mine back together tonight!!

Looking at the bike from the side, it's the brass flat screw near the bowl, just above, and where the boot or air filter meet the carb. You did change the jetting when you put pipes on, right?

Butch...is the fuel pump for you an the 34PJs? be careful, the DF62 is the high flow pump, 65L per hour. Really...no matter what you set the pump at, it'll blow past the needle/seat seal. Get a lesser pump. You want either the Mikuni DF52-176 or DF52-73. Both are 35L per hour. You can also get rid of the dual feed pingle, run a single feed. Or...plug one of the lines of the pingle off. All the Mikuni vacuum pumps are single vacuum line, single fuel line. Or if you wanted to get real snazzy, get a pair of DF44-227 and run one pump for each carb (14L per hour)...that's too much work and plumbing IMO..... Keep in mind, if this is a 421 setup, you can run snomo 39PWKs all day long on alky, 34s are too small, IMO. Then you can get a snomo carb setup and the DF62 (65L per hour) and done with it... You need any help setting it up....let me know!

No....a compression tester has a blow back valve in it. So...in other words, it should not decrease pressure until you hit the relief button. Bascially, you plug both exhaust ports, one intake port...and pump 6 PSI into the motor (yes...ONLY 6 PSI). The gauge you use has to have any check ball or blow back valve in it removed.... Test it for 5 to 10 minutes. No loss in pressure is optimal, but less than 1 PSI a minute is acceptable.

Yep...and it's super easy to get online and play other people, too...as long as the Wii is already wireless. Do yourself a favor...get the Nintendo wheel. I paid 10 bucks for a generic wheel, the Nintendo is 5 bucks more. On the generic I bought, there is no hole in the wheel (think about the infared pointer on the end of the remote) so going from game to game was kinda shitty. You're already spending 50 on the game, spend another 15 and get the second wheel. You have to get used to how much to turn and how sharply....but it is well worth it...a lot of fun.