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3...3...3...

Your prayers have been answerd. Billet plate, without the expensive pro-design price tag. Sure, it's gonna be more than cast...but, it is stronger. I don't see any on ebay, but PM Chariot Performance... Here is an auction that ended...but you can see the product. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=280224414938

A REALLY small dead pirate hooker???

Buy the head...run the domes. If you have to, you can always swap domes when you get down to sea level...if needed. You can probably get a good amount for the domes, used or new...towards bigger domes. I can't say for sure if they will or will not work with pump gas at 800 feet... One motor they might, the next they might not. With porting and 6 degrees of timing, I personally would play it a little safer with 20s...but ask Kevin what he thinks as well.

What is your elevation? Do you have any porting done to the cylinders? Do you have the timing advanced?

Yep...love it. The ONLY problem with buying one off Chariot from Ebay is they don't offer domes. He relies on his vendors and dealers to sell domes to you. Chariot is a machinist, NOT a builder. So while he can cut the parts you need, stuff that is setup specific...like domes, he doesn't do. If you gave him a spec sheet and measurements for your requirements, I'm sure he could do them, but he'd rather rely on the builders to give you exactly what they need to their spec. Speaking of...this is a smoking deal. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=95362

Bad ass one piece head, I have the chrome version if you want pictures mounted on the bike...this on is red anodized, though.

While you're at it....get several white rags or towels you don't care for. WHen you pour out the gas/oil from the crank case, you'll spot aluminum/metal shavings easier on the white cloth. Use a new one each time, and when the gas/oil coming out from the "flush" appear clean, you're good to go...

Yep...there are plenty of bikes that do 110 to 120 in a 1/4 mile, and they use ATV tires...

That piston is nothing that a little JB Weld can't fix...LOL... Seriously, when you take the top end off, get some gas and some 20:1 premix of your choice, take the motor out of the frame...and pour the fuel down the crank case on both sides... swish it around, then dump it out. I'd do this three or four times. Some of the metal had to make it down to the bearings... I smoked a piston last year, just rinsed it...no issues...

Dan Hull is out of town for a little bit, johnnyb just had a motor done and knows the scoop...

Word... No offense to Chris...never talked to him, but John Sefarian is the man...

Here's the dealio.... Chariot is the manufacturer of parts (mostly billet parts, machine parts, etc.) He really doesn't have a store front, other than an E-Store (ebay). He relies...and actually prefers his vendors to sell his parts. He said most of his vendors are brick and mortar stores, not Joe Backyard Garage shops. He uses ebay for the extra and cheap advertisement and product acknowledgment he receives, but his preferred method is selling via his dealer/vendor network.... If you click on the link in my sig, it will bring you to his ebay store.

Don't listen too much Riders...most of the posts are just hot air and full of shit...LOL. Seriously, though... A lot of information gets passed around and down the line by word of mouth...it starts out by saying "I heard....." I am 100% for trying new stuff and tinkering, etc. I didn't want you to head into this with intentions of having miraculous results, etc...and then be disappointed. I've always said, you can make a grocery getter into a top fuel dragster....but there are better ways to do things!!!

I've had no issues with my FAST Clutch for over 3 years. That being said, I'm just going to TRY something new....not to save cash, but to try something different. I'm getting Raptor 660 fibers and steels. Gonna give them a shot and see how they work. Again, absolutely can not beat the FAST clutch...however...if something breaks, it's nice to know you can hit a local stealership and get some plates if it's an emergency....same day Johnny on the spot.

Deal directly with him. I have his larger, non-crossover intakes and they are very nice. He makes nice products... http://www.bossatvracing.com/

Because the old school 34PJs are cheap....and as he said, they'll work well for his stock cylinder setup.

Believe me, I know what you mean. In 06 when I built my 4 mil cub on gas I didn't tune or dyno run it...went all the way to Silver Lake, it had a base gasket leaking, a broken up flywheel and the center of the jug had a dip in it...sucking coolant. All the way to the dunes, never left the parking lot. Last year, new 10 mil on alky, two trips to the dunes, April and Memorial day...made 5 to 6 passes each trip...smoked a Stator one time, Head orings the next due to incorrect domes. But when I finally did get to ride the bike, both motors....it was well worth the wait. When I'm going to the track, the night before...I can't sleep I'm like a little kid on Christmas eve.... I know what you're going through!!!

It was a Christmas Card Firehead sent me.... Definitely not GANGSTA.... :biggrin:

It's not a big deal...the real issue is the man that knows the most about your motor can't be gotten a hold of...and I'd hate to be the one to tell you the wrong thing....

That's easy...I know the answer to that one...

I misread your post. I thought you were telling him yup....it should read lower PSI when it's warm as opposed to being cold...

snopcyinski is the man when it comes to jetting for the 1 into 2s. I know they run a HUGE main compared to if it were a dual setup, like 185 to 200. But you need a different needle and pilot....and I'm not going to guess on that...sorry...

Your compression should be a few PSI or so warm. When the motor is warm, parts expand...namely the cylinders and rings to seal better. Howvever...I don't think your motor is even broken in yet... Are you checking the compression the correct way? Holding the throttle wide open, kicking 20 to 30 times until the gauge has stopped going up? The first few kicks will net you a lot, after that...each kick might only give you 2 to 3 PSI.... Again...I know you want to get rolling with this bike, but without knowing the cc size of the head (Dan Hull would know) and how much squish you have....there is NO WAY anyone can tell you what the correct cranking PSI should be.

You generally don't need it for gas. Unless you're running a BIG motor down the quarter mile... You can go to Sudco's website, click on products, Mikuni Fuel Pumps. I use the high flow, black octagon DF62. Just about all the guys around here that run the snowmobile carbs converted to alky run this pump as well.