dajogejr

The big difference is the Cheetah bolt spacing is different and the Orings are on the cylinders instead of the head, actually a MUCH better design than the stock/cub configuration. Acorn nuts and brass washers are a must IMO on any of the aftermarket heads.

It depends on the length of the race, tire size, gearing, surface, etc. 2nd gear is most common.

You need to make sure turning the idle screw in actually raises the slides. Please confirm that before we go further!!

I thought that was a damn good explanation on their part....honestly. How did you adjust the idle screws you just installed? Did you completely unplug ALL Tors wiring and hardware?

Plastic ones work fine, but think about this...every time you close the throttle, it's hitting that plastic. Over time, it'll wear, etc. Metal is a nice alternative. Would it be tops on my charts? no...is it a cheap, nice and easy benefit? Yep...sure is. Plus, if you remove the plastic all the way for cleaning, etc, the possibility with gorilla paws is there to strip them. Metal take a real dolt to strip with a lot of force...

Nice clean ride...love to have one of these for a pitter bike. Good luck with the sale!

This is where I'd set you up...but probably a 150 main to be honest. 155 will be a safe start, but I think it'll still be rich.

Damn that's good stuff there....

That is alot like asking Ford or Chevy... In My Opinion, the cubs run probably the best right out of the box. Clean up the casting flaws. Twister run very well, they generally need a little more grinding on them...still, a very nice setup. Cheetahs are good motors. Problem is everything is different, but that's good. Different head, bigger Cheetahs take different exhaust, different reed cages, and you have to buy the pistons from Trinity.

A lot of the guys ride with override trannys. They are cut specifically to upshift under full power without the use of the clutch. If you don't have an override tranny, use the clutch to shift.

I call BS, unless they guy on the KFX left the fuel turned off, weighs 400 lbs or doesn't realize there are a few more gears to go after 1st gear. Bone stock shee is low to mid 30s in HP, 450s are high 30s to low 40s, and weigh 50 lbs less...and have a much better torque curve... there is no 100% bone stock banshee that will beat any of the current crops of 450s...bone stock vs. bone stock. Period. Pipes, air filters, timing and a little more compression will come closer to level the playing field...but it will probably still be a very, very close race. Porting is where the power is...then learning to ride to get the power to the ground via tires, air pressure, gearing and the clutch.

Depending on what kind of cylinder he gets, it more than likely won't need to be welded. bigger than 4 requires trenching, and 7 or 10 mil crank and castings are usually the same price. The only reason to go with 7 is if you get a steal on a setup or because of class cc size restrictions.

Some of the studs go into the water jackets. I put a dab of RTV in the hole, then screw the stud in.

575 to 675 shipped, depending on what bearings you wanted on it.... New, forged, trued and welded.

Yep...he wheels and deals just about everything. No, cleaned up only. Sorry to get off topic, Snop.

4th season on my fast clutch. If you got a cub and you're drag racing, get a lockup and override or you're wasting time, IMO. Then get the right tires, the right gearing...and go from there.

Also... My buddy has a 4 mil cheetah he just put together to ride for this past weekend I know he's gonna sell, if your buddy interested...

That strut you ran last year I bent in half like a pretzel on my first pass with a bar...LOL...the one you borrowed from Evan. When I get the extra cabbage, I'm gonna need a strut for mine, might just go all the way around...not sure yet.

Override Tranny (I can hook you up on that), lockup clutch, longer arm, stiffer shock (Marvin or strut) And then the lighter stuff, drag axle, light weight rims/tires, A or J arms, Tie rods, steering stems. If it's gonna be strict drag bike, out of frame pipes. If he's gonna play in the dunes here and there, get inframe pipes. If he's gonna go 7, have him go 10 mil. There is no reason to build a 7 mil bike when a 10 is the same price. I can hook you up with a cheap 10 mil crank, NEW as well....price depends on what bearings you want to run on it. Snop, here's a new site with the ATV drag racers in mind as well...you and him take a look around. http://www.atvdragracers.com/

Go To Magicracing.com They have what's called a slider pack. It replaces the swingarm slide, upper and lower rollers and the chain guide out back....even comes in your choice of fancy colors.

Yep...sure can!

Who coincidentally...can also be a tool sometimes... LOL.

No...you're just high as fuck... they're 50 lbs heavier stock than any of the new 450s....

Apparently you haven't had many riding areas shut down from people drinking and riding and riding double. When you do, then you'll feel differently....

I've rode that bike...it's probably more like 65 to 68 on a more conservative dyno, Dan @ A&S is known to have a pretty generous read. Oh, it is tough to do...but it is possible!