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dajogejr

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Everything posted by dajogejr

  1. YIKES...259.00 new. Not that I mind paying for quality and piece of mind... I'll keep buying used OEM for now... Even though my CDI Uses 95-96 style plugs, the Stator will take newer plugs... http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/in...hp?c=partLookup
  2. Chariot is in my backyard, that's one of my next purchases. I already have a nicer, newer stator on the way thanks to Utleybanshee...I'll get all new stainless hardware to hold it in place as well...
  3. Find a new engine builder. For long, wide open racing like that you don't want that much compression and or a tight squish...you're making too much heat, putting too much stress on the motor. If it wasn't the crank, it'll be something else next.
  4. Find a bolt thick enough to fill that hole, use a hose clamp and plug them both off. Make sure the bolt doesn't extend into the intake path.
  5. T6 pipes work just fine with porting from mile all the way to aggressive dune porting. I wish people would stop staying T6 pipes do not work with porting...once you get to the aggressive port they no longer work well, T5 pipes won't be the clear choice either, CPI, Shearers or the like will be.
  6. Flip the reeds, clean the pilots and check for an air leak.
  7. dajogejr

    New Guy

    Lockup clutch, dunable override, bigger carbs (41mm Keihin or 44mm Lectrons), alky, and bigger, better out of frame pipes. You could probably get another 30 HP out of that motor without even breaking a sweat. That motor should be around 130 on methanol, even without porting.
  8. Check your reeds.
  9. Sell the 450 outright, buy the banshee and you'll have extra cash... Why not build the banshee you have to the gills, keep the 450 for trails and fun....?
  10. If you're going to run tight trails...FMF Fatty or Pro Circuit. If you're going to ride wide open faster trails, maybe some dunes, T6 is as good as it gets.
  11. Their customer service is great. I showed them a line on my banking statement from June of 06 when I purchased my original one, sent it in with my stator last year, I had a new one in less than a week. No questions asked. However, it's just not a practice I want to continue....especially since there is OEMs from 1987 still going, and going....
  12. Good luck, as said...no one is going to have big flange BB inframes...you'll have to make your own.
  13. Go up 3 to 5 sizes on the main jet (Probably 230 to 250) and turn the air screw in 1/4 turn. Start there.
  14. Don't know what you guys are talking about...looks fine to me. It's one of them super light cut pistons for them drag bikes. I'd run it....LOL.... Yeah, from that kind of disaster, your tearing a motor ALL the way down and checking EVERYTHING... You need anything, let me know.
  15. What is your elevation and how much cranking PSI do you have with no base gasket and 16cc domes. Trued and welded crank or not, that's a ticking time bomb in a bike near sea level that held WOT all the time (your screen name is flattrack, so I assume that's what you do...)
  16. Just like the title says. My POS Ricky Stator went out this weekend (2nd one in 2 years....) I need a clean, working 95 to 96 year plug harness. I do not need the plate, just the stator. Must have picture, whatcha got??
  17. Snop, no offense to you bro... I'm doing something organized. I'm telling fellow members here without a doubt they are junk. They are no longer what they used to be. I will only get OEM stators going forward. 2 strikes you're out. Luckily enough I was smart enough to carry a spare, or that bad stator would've cost me 200 in winnings from the race I scrambled to make. I'm not going to waste my time calling, complaining, etc. The best they'll do is send me a new one, IF they'll do that...and I really don't feel like waiting another year to have another one fail. I threw that piece of trash out at the track. So, I'm pretty sure a refund is out of the question...that would be the only thing that I would be somewhat ok with.
  18. Jim's Sand Toys has been out of business since late last year.
  19. Well...second stator bad in 2 years. This was a warranty replacement from the one I bought in 06...that was warrantied almost to the day last year. Made 5 or 6 passes Thursday, made 2-3 passes Friday and it died. Missed my qualifying runs, got it done just in time to race... Luckily I had a spare OEM Stator from NYUK.. I'm not going to even bother to get a replacement. I'm going to get another OEM stator as a backup, a billet plate from Chariot...and I'll put up my RS Stator plate cheap. (Please don't PM about the plate, it'll be a few weeks and I'll post it for sale... ) Never Again will I buy another piece of RS crap.
  20. Methanol is corrosive, whereas gasoline is not. You're gonna find people run 20:1 to 40:1. I personally run 28:1. What is important is you use methanol compatible oil AND use methanol compatible oil in your gas purge mixture as well. I put a little more oil in my gas purge mixture to clean out the methanol. Benoil, Supertechniplate and Castor 927 are pretty much what most people run.
  21. Not only will you save some money, get the HP you want...but you'll also have a more "rideable" motor as well.
  22. You only needs cubs cleaned up, they make a lot of power out of the box. But for your needs and setup, send your stockers out...
  23. I can get you good pricing. PM me the tire you are looking for. Size, rollout, number of paddles, type of paddle, rim type and size. Also you shipping zip code. Thanks.
  24. With similar weight riders and skill level, bolt ons vs a YFZ with a pipe, air filter and a cam or timing mod the shee will still lose, maybe get it in top end on a long run. Hard to make up the 8 to 10 HP and 50 plus lbs or weight you're giving up to the YFZ...not to mention they are holeshot machines....
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