dajogejr

Do you have a link?

More oil = more HP. That's proven. All the way up to 16:1.... Find an oil, stick with it....then fix your jetting. A two stroke shouldn't foul plugs if it's jetted right...and in good mechanical shape, period.

If that engine has very much time on it, those pics don't help. You could be lean on the bottom, rich on the top...and lean in the middle for all we know.... It depends WHERE in the jetting circuits you rode... From the pics it looks rich, but if it runs good...leave it.

Too bad you guys are so far away...

Give me half now, half later and there's a leinholder on the bike this guy can't find. Run, don't walk from this one....

Sorry...but I have to disagree on that Tyler... Kenny Roberts was racing bikes and tuning for Yamaha before Matt was old enough to get a hard on, that's who taught Matt about pipes.... Kenny's been making pipes lately....or at least R&D work on pipes. Don't get me wrong, Matt Shearer makes a fine pipe (I use them) but if you could get Kenny Roberts to build you a set for your street bike...that would be like playing golf with Tiger Woods....

You will find most guys use OEM ignition.... They might try others, but most come back to OEM. Ricky Stator ignition products are junk, period. I use a Nology Coil, no complaints, looks cool, and it works. I bought a Ricky Stator cast plate because when I got mine, Chariot wasn't out yet...and I wasn't paying 100 bucks for a Pro-Design. I will get a chariot billet plate here soon in the off season, because they're made better than the cast RS plates, period. As said, you can get NGK replacment ends for the stock coil, do both wires for under 15 bucks... Do NOT fall for the aftermarket gimmick CDIs that offer 1000 more RPM, etc. Ignition does not dictate the max RPMs on a two stroke, porting, exhaust, intake....compression, timing...they all do. Dyna makes a nice CDI but ONLY if you're going to use the advanced features of it (tach output, program the timing to YOUR motor's spec, etc.) Out of the box, it offers no distinct advantage over an OEM CDI.

That's my take too.... Carbs are not the problem. Have you called K&T to see what they say....great group of people there!

Put some 39PWKs on there. That motor at the RPMs you'll be using it at will pull them no problem. What you need to look for is some Shearer hand coned pipes used. You can cut the pipes on the welds and swap the cones around to get them to fit the bike. A guy in France bought my old hand rolled pipes last year for exactly that...he cut them up and rewelded them for his bike...turned out ok. The ideal man to go to for that is Kenny Roberts. I have no idea on how to get a hold of him though...he is the man for that street bike stuff....

Buy a factory OEM inner and outer hub, a billet basket, a new fiber, spring and steel plate combo, a new throttle cable and an aftermarket lever/perch assembly that changes the leverage ratio to make pulling the clutch easier. ALL of this will probably cost 200 bucks or so, give or take. Give Jeff @ FAST a call. I've yet to see a clutch hold up like his.

J arm frames are lighter, and they are favored by a lot of drag racers...mine is even cut and lightened...and it's holding up to my fat ass just fine. In drag racing, you're on flat or near flat ground...and a groomed track. You're not jumping 10 feet in the air.... Most start off with a stock frame, then they get the stocker cut and lightened, then they go aftermarket chassis.... My chassis might be for sale in a few months, it's a perfect beginner drag frame...

Nothing wrong with the oil you're running, nothing wrong with changing oils. The ONLY time that is an issue is if you mix two different type of two stroke oils in the same tank of fuel, they could be incompatible and separate...even then, that's a slim chance if you're running gas.... It's a good idea to drain the tank if you're going to switch oils. Methanol (alky) is MUCH more picky about what kind of oils will mix with it... I used Maxima products in my bikes and quads for years...never an issue.

there is one true, fool proof way to tell if a bike needs higher octane or not...compression ratio. However, if you're running 22cc domes, more than likely premium pump gas will work just fine.

My man.... I'm well aware what trouble shooting is....Any slight amount of oil will quickly get washed away with the slightest amount of fuel pulled from the carb. If not, you're not getting fuel...and sealing reeds with no fuel isn't going to amount to a hill of beans. I agree on a capful of oil to coat the cylinders, not pistons, to try and get a better ring seal. I've read a bunch of your posts...claiming a bunch of this so called knowledge, but you don't even know what a lockup clutch is??? He flipped the reeds around...both ways, no difference. So unless they're chipped or broken, it's not reeds. Start by double checking all your ignition. You said it was lacking in power before you pulled the carbs.... Make sure the flywheel didn't move on the key, check your pickup gap flywheel to stator, ohm the stator, swap CDIs with a buddy's known working CDI. 120PSI is more than enough to start and fire the bike, unless you're at sea level with 17cc domes... You might not be jetted cleanly, but your bike won't start. It's electrical...

To be honest....by now, you could've had the motor torn apart, flushed out, put back together and running....

Professional? Ha ha...that's a good one... because...your crank bearings, pistons, etc. get ALL of their lubrication from the oil you mix with your gas. Not going to hurt a thing with a little more oil on the bearings to help clean the metal out...

Take the engine out of the bike, pour some 16:1 or 20:1 premix and gas in each side...roll the crank over a few times, dump it out. repeat until you see NO grayish or metal shavings.

Take a look at the little end of the connecting rod and bearing. If it has discoloration, or you find fragments in the needle bearing (piston pin or wrist pin bearing), split 'em....

Porting...period. You can get a good dune port and run those Toomey pipes all day long. But until you can get porting done, you're wasting money on other bolt ons trying to get to 65HP....

I have never in all my years heard of oiling or "wetting" reeds upon installation. The second the bike is kicked over to start it...the fuel/oil/air MUST go through the reeds to get to the cylinder. Sounds like wiping before you poop...don't make sense.... A little gap is ok. More than a few thousands, flip the reeds over or replace them. If petals are chipped or frayed...replace them.

Save your money for porting. I could see a coil (any coil) being a HP improvement if your stocker is going bad, etc....but that's like saying replacing your fouled plugs with new ones gave you more power. No...it just fixed a flaw....

You're just abusing the clutch.... Try stiffer springs, lighter oil and gear the bike down a bit so you don't have to clutch it as frequently.... There's no reason to gear the bike to do 75 to 80 MPH when it'll never see that on a MX course...gear it for power out of corners and off jumps...

As bad as that kaboom is, you need to pull that motor apart and do it right. You need to have that crank and it's bearings checked....and it could've started separating from the detonation as well. 87 octane isn't a great idea...but you should also have it checked for leaks, etc.

As well as what kind of fuel he is using...etc. Before he runs the bike again, this needs to be addressed

The pluses for Firefox are less exploitation of windows flaws such as active x, etc. Firefox had tabbed browsing way before IE7 came out. But other browsers did too, opera...is actually a great browser. Can't say I like the look and feel of Chrome. There are about 3 to 5% of the websites out there that will not work properly with Fox, you have to use Maxthon (IE Based) or IE to view them properly... Also... Cisco products can not use the GUI via Firefox...that's the only time I use IE...for Cisco programming not done at the command line interface... Here's some other browsers to look at: Maxthon myIE2 Opera Chrome