dajogejr

What planet are you on? The Cheetah was one of the original drag aftermarket cylinders. The cubs are based on them, but allow for stock banshee pipes, head and intake to be bolted on. Show me a single port job out there that has triple exhaust and is meant for MX or trail style riding. These cylinders are meant for hill shooting and drag racing, period. To tell yourself otherwise is foolish. Putting T5s on a cub motor is like putting a an exhaust manifold, catalytic converter and full 2 inch exhaust on a top fuel dragster motor. It makes no sense. And yes, I've owed a 4 mil cub, currently own a 10 mil cub, ran the 4 mil on gas with T5 pipes and stock carbs while my Shearer/RDZ inframes and 35PWKs were on order... I've run CPI and Shearer on my 10 mil as well. So I think I know what I'm talking about. You can add compression and timing to bring the power spread down a little in the RPM range. Too much compression and timing will sacrifice overrev and top end....however. Calvin made these cylinders as a cheaper alternative to the Cheetah Cylinders and to use stock banshee parts. If he wanted these to be a trail/MX cylinder...tell me why he didn't put a powervalve in the cub motor? Because at Max RPM you don't need a powervalve...it's all the way open.

Here I thought I was the only one that did that. I think we need mythbusters to prove it...LOL. My old shop teacher in high school always told us this...but, he's was old school.

Yeah, but they can all cause it to run like shit.

Internal leak...

Well...that's kinda a key point to leave out. Sounds like you might have blown a head gasket.

I guess I'm a lucky one.... I've had a TZ on my PTO side for 2 years and literally hundreds and hundreds of passes without a single issue...on my 1996 stock helical gears. Straight cuts are a waste of money on smaller motors, unless you're running pavement, hitting N20 or you need to alter your gearing ratio for 1/4 mile runs without running a HUGE front sprocket. No one really carries the Yamaha OEM TZ bearing anymore. People buy the NTN bearing and have the race machined for the clip on the PTO side... It's what I have in mine. I still have an OEM on my flywheel side.

Start by checking the sync on the carbs.

A bad crank seal can absolutely pressurize the crank case....and the bike should not spit fluid out the breather line unless it is over filled, tipped over...or...a bad seal. The crankcase gets both, vacuum and pressure in a single rotation. 30 pilot is too big for that setup in my opinion...but the crank seal needs to be replaced first. Do both while you have the cases split.

The only thing I torque to spec is the cylinder head and clutch bolts. 22ft lbs. on the head, 7.5 ft. lbs on the clutch. ON the flywheel nut I hit it with an air impact and use red loctite. As said, you must do a criss cross pattern tightening the head down. I tighten each one to 10, 15, 20 than 22 ft. lbs.

What have you checked? Could be as simple as fouled spark plugs.... Does it have fresh gas and oil in the tank. Is the air filter clean and unobstructed?

What kind of spark plugs? Did you gap them down for alky? What is your compression? Did you do a leak down test? What is your timing at? I personally think for alky you're wasting time with stock carbs, but you should be able to get it to run...

ATF Type F and change it every other time at the track. I used Amsoil Gear oil for 2 strokes and it was garbage back when I had a stocker w/ bolt ons. Went back to Gearsaver 80W and it was fine....

Chariot and Noss both make a fine head. I personally like the Chariot for a few reasons. Less Orings, sleeker look and it's available in Chrome.... It's not like you're choosing between a yugo and a Porsche....these are both good choices and site sponsors. if you're at or near sea level, I'd get a 20 or 21cc dome to run on pump gas.

Easy...the billet is a better piece, less prone to stripping, etc. Up until Chariot, the price of a RS plate was 35 and the pro design was 90. The Chariot is 50. For 15 more, I will get a billet plate. Plus...Chariot is local to me, and I support his products.

Yes sir. Keep a spare in the box...and a GOOD, quality cordless impact or flywheel strap to get that bastard off.... I'm going to get a billet plate from Chariot, put my newer, OEM stator on that and put it on the bike, keep my rusty old trusty as a backup on my cast plate. Just a bad taste, twice in a row. First time was at the dunes 4 to 5 hours away, 1st day of the weekend with no spare. Second time was just as far away, but at the drag strip...luckily I had my spare.

IF that part leaves you stranded in the woods....you'll think otherwise about the deal. I had two RS go out on me within 2 years. The first I got warrantied (luckily, within a month of the warranty being expired) the second one...I threw in the trash at the track and put a rusty, beat up old looking OEM and it's been running like a top since.

No offense to you...at all, please don't take it that way. But why on earth would you powder coat an item that will NEVER be seen, which will NOT rust, is beyond me... I've seen dozens of Ricky Stator timing plates, I have one...and have never seen it powder coated. I believe you...but I'm in disbelief, if that makes sense... First thing I'd do is clean up/file down the contact edges where it pushes/mates against the cases, and file/clean up the notches where the screws go for easier adjustment. That one on the front looks like Stevie Wonder went at it with a dremel. Not that it won't work...but it might be a little tough to slide.

I don't think that's powder coat...that's just a cast aluminum plate.

I would bring a mic or dial caliper to check the stroke. Obviously, it's a cub cylinder, but I'd like to know what I'm paying for....and I'd give him a small deposit and pay the balance upon further inspection of the bike. Since he doesn't know what he has...he doesn't know the value either...keep that in mind.

Couple things you guys have to remember, he's from the south. Money isn't the same there as it is in more populated areas... Plus, it's Christmas time...economy is terrible, he could need money for gifts and/or just lost his job. Sure...the bike is worth 6500 to 8K..but, what can he actually SELL it for. You have to give shit away now a days to sell, which, is exactly what he is doing. I know I couldn't get half the price from mine as compared to what I have in it....

They powder coat their plate?? Yeah, I'd like to see pics of their stuff. By their website, they sell the same china junk Ricky Stator does....as far as Stators go. I'll keep my OEMs.

Yep...was thinking the same thing. That has profit part out written all over it.

If that bike runs and is not grenaded inside, that might be the steal of a century... 7 mil cub complete? Fullbores...etc.? The guy probably could've done just a LITTLE better job of describing the bike.

Better prep work. If you don't want to use JB Weld, get some Moroso A&B Epoxy. It's what we use to fill trenched cases... But we've used JB Weld for power jets in gas and methanol carbs without issue.

Gas motor, BR8ES Methanol motor, B9ES.