dajogejr

Don't know what the haspin acres ride is, doesn't sound like a drag race or I'd think about it. I will be at Cleves, OH to race my bike in the ProTruck Nationals.... I'll get you the dates if you want me to be your huckleberry....

Since I'm sure they're "self glued"...you can save money on the elmers and break down and buy pilot jets. Case solved. Damn I'm good.... :beer:

Sure..if the sprocket isn't bent...LOL. "Pull the rear tires off and get a measurment from the center of the outside of the rear axle to the lower a-arm mounting bolt on both sides. That measurement should be the same. If not, it has to be the swingarm or carrier or frame." Best advice yet.

Normally...if it's bogging, it's rich not lean. That's if everything else is in check. Fuel supply, clean carbs, properly set float heights, ignition and engine health all A OK.

Then you should take up scrap booking... :biggrin:

I would actually go axle to foot pegs or back of the frame. Reason being, if you have a bent rim, albeit a slight bend, that can throw your measurements off. You're less likely to have a bent axle...or at least it would be a LOT more noticable...

That's backwards. If the air screw is 3 turns out...you need smaller pilot jets. Think of it this way. If the bike truly is to rich, you are trying to lean it out by allowing more air to mix with the fuel. on stock banshee carbs, the mixture screw is behind Venturi...it is called an air screw. By putting a larger pilot jet in, you'd have to mix that much more air by turning the air screw out. Once you get past 2.5 turns out from lightly seated, you're past the "usable range" on the air screw. I'd make sure you're not running too much oil, your compression is up to snuff, fresh plugs, fresh gas/oil, cleaned carbs, good fuel supply (no dirt/gunk in the carbs) and no dirt plugging the fuel valve screens in the gas tank. I've never had to go leaner than a stock 25 pilot.... Now, if your air screws were less than .5 turns out from the lightly seated position, you'd need a larger pilot.

You can't measure threads, use the grooves on the adjuster and the carrier to see if they're lined up. Common problem on stockers, misalignment on the adjuster...the best reason to go roundhouse.

You shouldn't have to drill the pilots. They make pilot jets for stock carbs up to a 60 or 55 I believe. Take whatever you're running for gas now, go up 3-5 sizes on the pilots. Probably end up with a 32.5 or a 35. I like the pilot a little rich because after a WOT run, when you cut the throttle...that fuel is the only thing cooling the piston top...less is not good. Since Jeff built your motor, I'd ask him what size carbs to run on alky. 33 or 35PWKs converted would be my advice.

Takes a big man to admit a wrong Bob...even if they are in the wrong too. I agree with you, if you're not happy...go elsewhere. My dealings with them have been superb. Have they made mistakes? yep...but they've more than rectified them in my opinion. Kinda like buying a new car. You and your neighbor could have bought the identical cars at the same time. One could be a lemon, the other trouble free for years. When you deal in that much bulk and volume, mistakes and mishaps happen. How you're taken care of is the key. The girl there is ok. I usually ask to talk to Guy direct. I think his name is Mike that works in Shipping...he's a good guy too. When you buy used parts, ask questions, get pictures...etc. You just never know. Some guys garbage is another's treasure and vice versa... On all my dealings over the years, I've had a bad one. I did my best, two of us didn't see eye to eye...but that was the best I could do. Like I said, they ship out a shit ton of parts. They make mistakes, they don't always catch them right away. Line up your ducks, keep your details...and they will take care of you.

Throw up some pics of the busa... A guy local has a turbo busa and he's said it is a VERY mild 380 or so HP. My sack just isn't that big...period... You could build a big enough banshee motor to put out 750 plus HP....once...and it would be a very expensive once. It would probably have 3 or 4 VERY large cylinders attached to it.

You bring up some very well and thought out points... Gas consumption, oil consumption, ride ability, etc. I tend to look at things from a drag racing perspective, and I was more or less pointing out the numbers game. You couldn't be more on the spot with the facts you mentioned though.... 5-6 hours WOT? More like 1/2 hour or so on a methanol bike...LOL... I bet you ran into all kinds of funny things, like the kick starter having to be up to start the motor, etc. Those are some of the challenges that will make you lose hair. By all means, great, great build and great write up. I didn't want you to take it as me putting you down. If it were a drag only bike (which, clearly by the pictures it's NOT) in my opinion there is a cheaper and easier way...but for your needs, hell yeah...way to go.

I know you could on the old style, probably still can on the new style (molded cover by them instead of just the insert) I'm pretty sure that the billet is cheaper than the lexan too...

If they are more money than direct drive, I'd skip it. You can get a trick looking lexan window from Direct Drive and it sounds like you can get it for less....

All the products I've seen from Chariot are top notch. This item is one of those "I don't need it now, but it's one less thing to buy down the road" purchases for me. While I'm very certain you don't need one on a 4 mil cub, it won't hurt anything but your wallet, and it'll last for future builds when you do need it. When i buy one, I'll buy the whole kit as well.

In addition to what's said above, you'll also be surprised how far off your idle speed is on the carbs. You can count turns and eyeball all you want. That thing is dead nuts on....

No...they are 100% not the same company. Inland does sell more Boss parts than anyone else, though. He buys a TON of them and sells them at very attractive discounts. Here's what you have to think about. They send out 1000 packages a month. They make mistakes too. Hell, I bought a 10 mil cub off them. They sent me a 4 mil, called me and told me they sent the wrong one, send it back on their dime and they'll have my 10 mil out via 2 day air. And they did. They shipped a buddy of mine a round house carrier mistakenly, he called me (my buddy) and I talked to Guy. He said yep, mistake...ask him to send it back and I'll give him a free brake plate and mounting hardware (which my buddy neeeded) for his trouble and honesty. I'm not saying that's an excuse, but if you talk to Guy he'll get you straight. Did you pay for or ask for expedited shipping? His auctions are ALL UPS ground shipping unless you specifically specify otherwise. Takes 2-3 days to process, 3-5 business days to ship. Every time I've researched "slow shipping" with Guy, he's proved to me what day he was paid, that he shipped it out within 2 days, and a tracking number when it was shipped. If people want overnight shipping, pay for it.... Seriously, call Guy. They are closed Sunday and Monday, they made a mistake...let him fix it for you.

that's a nice looking build. I know I'm gonna sound like a dick when I say this, but please don't take it that way. A 100 to 120 HP banshee motor will keep up with and more than likely beat it all day long. Here's why... Weight. A 100 to 120 HP banshee motor weighs around 85 to 90 lbs. If you owned the ZX motor outright, the motor is cheaper, but time spent fabricating, etc., isn't. In the end...I think it's cheaper to build the banshee based motor. again, that's a nice build, and I don't want to come off like a dick or anything, I just respectfully disagree with your last statement, mostly you'd need 150 HP and 80Ft lbs of torque...you wouldn't need that much because of weight, that's all.

Your rich off the bottom, or you have a weak link in the electrical system. Turn your air screws out .5 then 1.0 turns and see if that helps. If not, go one size smaller on the pilots as said. An HJR dune port with those mods will pull 33's strong all day long.

My opinion, it's going to be around 250 mains. Warm the bike up on old plugs, and do this: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html If I were you, get a K&N Filter lid to keep MOST of the junk out, but allow it to breathe MUCH better. You'll probably have to bump up to 270ish once you either remove the lid or get a outerwear type lid to open it up. That lid is really restricting it. And as said, check float levels. A tell tale sign is when you come to a stop, it's overflowing out the tubes on either side of the carb.

Put it in a stand up chassis and street race in Miami...

SHHHH... Fat boy secret. Don't lose weight, build bigger... :biggrin:

I've got every light weight part available and mine is a Jarm chassis on top of that. I think mine race ready is 260 to 280, but once I button it back up, I'm gonna weigh her so I know how much weight I'm saving when i get my new frame. Gotta weigh it with the wheelie bar, too...of course. All aluminum frame? Good luck on that....better get Geico....and Aflack.

This is always what I've used in the past. Looks like the kit you posted is 5 cheaper plus free shipping..let us know how they work out. http://www.magicracing.com/UPP-Chain-Slide...tor_p_1058.html

Got their Chrome head and ran it all last year. I like it! A lot of the guys around here run them. I like less Orings and the raised center look of the head. The chrome acorn nuts and brass washers he includes are heavy duty, big time.