ssanddemon

PM Boonman about the flywheel, I hear he does a good job of getting them light but still sturdy. The flywheel mod helps by reducing the inertia needed to get the motor spun up. As you know, the shee doesn't have much grunt on the bottom, and the lightened flywheel makes it feel snappier down there.

You can case match the cylinders since you have the upper case off as well as the jugs. This will give a smooth transition on the ports between the cylinders and crankcase, helps keep fuel/air velocity up. Just use the cylinder base gasket as a template, and scribe around the inside of the jugs and case where the meet. Any metal not covered by the gasket can be removed with a burr-head bit on a die grinder or dremel tool. I got a special base gasket from Twister Performance that is real minimal width, allowing much bigger openings thru the case and jugs. After the case matching, I noticed a decent improvement across the whole power band, feels like 2 or 3 hp.

Yep, it's like your appendix- Doesn't do a damn bit of good but could cause problems. The main thing I hated about my TORS was needle adjustments- it was such a bitch to do with all that crap on there! A TORS eliminator kit can be found most anywhere, at bike shops and online catalog places (I like rockymountainatv.com). Costs like $30 and has everthing you need with instructions.

DemonShee, make sure to use the actual puller for a yamaha flywheel or you will damage it, they bend easy. Any bike shop will have one for $15-20. This motor is real nice to work on, everything stays in the bottom case, so you don't need to grow extra arms to keep the guts together during reassembly. The shee motor is a snap compared to everthing else!

Dude, if you broke the rod in half and put it thru the cylinder, you need a crank and rods, cylinder, pistons, and a gasket kit. If ebay looks too expensive, keep looking and give it some time as well as what you are doing here, which is asking around. But it sounds like you need more than what you think.

It's really not that big a deal; just a good idea to watch a guy do it before you do your own. Louie Swann at Twister Cranks let me stand around while he did mine, years ago. First, it goes on the v-blocks to check out-of-round with a dial indicator. Just gotta be close. Then a few minutes with a TIG, spotting around the press-fits. Then back on the blocks with a dial indicator and a BIG lead hammer. He smacked it around until it spun true, and that was it. Total time, like 15 minutes.

I believe they are the same shock. You might go to an online microfiche and see if they are the same part #.

I really like V-Force-2 set on "low" setting. It pulls just as good on top as the "high" setting (which is VERY good) and pulls way better than stock on the bottom end.

Sounds like a big deal, but it's really easy, a good afternoon job. The carbs have a place cast into them for idle speed screw, but it is blocked out in the TORS carbs. You just have to drill thru the casting, grind the outer angled part of the casting boss flush, and tap the hole. All the stuff needed is in the kit, and it's not hard.

Looks like they have a Raptor bend as well; lower and straighter. Looks like the ticket.

Alan, those newer type carb tops are a part of the TORS Throttle OverRide System) which is a nightmarish octopus guaranteed to eventually give problems if not removed. Almost everyone with a modded shee has thrown this stuff away and now has carb tops just like yours.

I like to use a heavy application of silicone grease to help hold the seals in the grooves and to keep the seals limber over time. Mr. Noss will know what's best, but I'm guessing you pinched an o-ring during installation.

Gotta go with the ATV bend. It's a huge difference between a motocross bike rise to an ATV rise (like 4" for a bike to about 8" for a quad).

& did you check the same ring in each bore? It would be the easy way to see whether it is the bores or the rings that don't match each other. Something definitely wrong here. Edit: the Pro Lite is forged, as opposed to the factory cast aluminum piston. A higher strength piece, but needing a slightly larger bore clearance due to the expansion characteristics of forged aluminum, as well as the greater importance of proper engine warmup to prevent piston slap and cylider wear.

Send me a prepaid packing envelope and I'll give you mine. Pulled it out of my 03 when it was almost new. Send a PM if you wanna.

I had the slips with the stocker right away when my bike was new, just a few mods and shee wouldn't hold. I put in the Toomey clutch, and it's been real good, but very grabby. I am only using 4 of the Toomey springs and pull is managable, but I can't imagine the pull using all of them. Should hold any kind of power.

It would be a hellacious ride for sure. Locogato has done some mean swaps; he may have some pointers other than the basic stuff like taking lots of measurements before cutting or welding, plan on having to build or heavily modify pipes, etc. It is a major job, not for a beginner fab guy. Personally, I'm stalled out on a CB650-powered Zook LT right now. It's always more work than it looks!

I hope you don't have to pull the seal, fast87. It has a lip that runs around the center of the outside of the seal which fits into a matching indent in the case. I did manage to pull mine by drilling holes thru it and running sheet metal screws thru to push off of the bearing, thereby pressing the seal out. But it was no fun, and the book says you have to split cases. I just want you to know, it could be a can of worms better left for another day.

First I'm a bitch, now I'm a hypocrite? You are a real nice (guy?) she-male! Yes, my post was longer than the repair instructions, but that's not the point. I don't mind helping people AT ALL. But I check out HQ for fun - not work. And it sure is FUN making FUN of you.

By the way she-male, the problem I have isn't with helping out, it's that people SHOULD have the book. If they are too lazy or cheap to buy one and just expect someone to give up time to give detailed instructions on basic repairs, it is no fun to anyone, it's just drudgery, slogging thru the same easy stuff with each new guy who doesn't want to pony up for basic info and specs. By the way Bick, I'm not trying to heap this all on you.

It's funny, a she-male calling me a bitch.

If you just playride, get the Elka 'Dunes'. They are the low level Elkas that lack adjustability. I have ridden quite a few shees with aftermarket shocks, and I believe they are the most bang for the buck at like $450, totally better than even the upper level versions of the Works shocks. If a guy races motocross or TT on his quad, I can see the adjustabilty being an issue, but if you want shocks with top quality parts (all anodized billet) that ride great and wear for years, it's hard to beat Dunes for the money. For the guy who wants a good race shock, TCS and Custom Axis are the big names.

I had this seal fail last year, sucking air and making the left side misfire. I finally tracked it down to the stator seal facing the wrong direction (green toward crank). I did pull the crank for welding when the bike was new, and I never have convinced myself that I put it together with the dirty side facing in on reassembly- I think the factory put many, many bikes together with this seal facing the wrong way. If you inspect this seal carefully, you will see that the cutting faces of the seal lips really do face toward the green side, and that this must be facing out to prevent air from being sucked in.

If you are wondering why no one has replied in 4 1/2 hrs. to your question, I'll tell you- everyone is tired of telling the newbies to buy a Clymer's manual! Buy the book, read it, and if you still don't understand, then by all means post for help! The book details clutch adjustment ad nauseum, every which way and back. I get annoyed at having to look up specs for lazy S.O.B.s and I guess this post reflects that. Edit: sorry for my pissy attitude.

The trick is to kneel on the grab bar to squish the suspension. Then reach down and feel the slack in the chain. The reason for this is that the chain tightens as the suspension compresses. You want the chain to be snug (like 1/2 to 1" of free play) at full squish. This will give optimal wear on the chain and sprockets, but not overstress the output bearing when landing on jumps.