ssanddemon

WISECO

2 words: RACE GAS! You'll actually feel the difference with the head shaved. Either way it'll feel like 2wice the power than before, you're gonna have a serious grin!

You want a guide on how to build a banshee? What the hell do you think this forum is?-chopped liver?

Dude, don't trust Jose' to mask the threads, just be smart and put bolts in the holes! Another thing is to take a grinder to any tabs on the frame you are not using, and MAKE SURE TO LOOK FOR CRACKS BEFORE YOU GET THE COATING DONE! I guarantee you will not be wanting to weld on the frame AFTER it's cherried out!

Mail it. The crank needs to be trued (ideally before and) after welding. They need to be very fine spot welds and equidistant from each other so as not to screw up the balance of the crank. It's an easy job for the pros, but Joe Blow machinist WILL wreck your crank. I use Twister Performance for that type of stuff, Louie Swann is an old pro.

That's about where I'm at. I think it's not a big deal until the porting gets done. The two big restrictions right now are the porting and carbs. Doing one without the other won't give much; any single restriction in a system limits the entire system. I'm looking at 30mm PWKs after the port work.

Happened on my old YZ 250. Dunno if it's a yamaha thing or? Scared the crap out of me, I had just built top & bottom ends!Couldn't find any reason for it, all was snugged down just right and etc.....

1.Chop the airbox lid, invest in a better filter system (proflow or similar). I used K&Ns cuz it's sand only for me. Your factory filter WILL suck dirt. 2. Shave the head. It's cheap, easy and gives real gains for very little $$$. You will need to rejet, also cheap. These were the very first things I did, and the bike felt LOTS better for like $150.

It's bad/you're screwed. Sorry, there's no easy way to put it; start the teardown.

Case match the cylinders. I got a special cyl. base gasket from Twister Performance an used it as a template. Scribed along it on both the case and cylinders then ground away the excess metal. It makes for a smooth transition from the cylinder ports to case ports and supposed to be good for a few hp. Plus it's an easy saturday project if you already have the upper case off.

Maybe. Or not. It may be nothing but a pile of parts. Or it may just have a stuck valve. Or?

Yep, since they quit making small block Chevys and Fords, Jeep CJs and VW Bugs, you just can't seem to get parts for them anymore, darnit! Obvious answer here is that anything with a long production run and big production numbers will be supported for literally decades by the aftermarket; no worries here.

Pulling the airbox lid alone requires a rejet. That's how effing horrible the stock airbox is; not to mention the laughable sealing ability of the stock filter . You guys running the stock filter HAD BETTER be putting grease around the sealing edge of it or you may end up $orry!

My good buddy has a typical-mod DS and I simply walk all over him in the sand (and yes, he is an expert rider).His bike is a wheelie monster and a ton of fun, just not real fast. My banshee is pretty mild, something like 50 hp. I'm sure he would smoke me in dirt or gravel due to his 4-stroke grunt and my wheelspin. I think most of us can agree that dollar for dollar the banshee is faster, it just has trouble laying it down in certain terrain due to the power hit. Whenever I hear something like "this guy on a 4-stroke beat my banshee", I immediately suspect: #1. novice rider #2. gravel dragstrip #3. bike not set up right. Dollars to doughnuts the problem is one of those.

Mine came off right away, too. Unfortunately, I lingered with the stock airbox thru many rejets before the K&Ns. What a pain in the ass!

Please tell me you have replaced the needle and seat. If so, check to see if the floats both weigh the same. Easiest way to do this is by making a balance beam with a piece of fine wire about 6-8" long. If it really is running too rich, a heavy (leaking, full of gas) float or a defective needle and seat are about the only causes other than wrong jetting. Plugged jets make it run lean . I have chased a very similar problem this week, turned out (I think) to be a topend problem. See 'Banshee Cylinder Not Firing' on this board for the sordid tale.

Side note here, the fuel petcock has a strainer for 'on' and 'reserve'. My reserve strainer was full of crap and the bike would always howl and sputter on the way back for fueling up. I pulled out the petcock and cut the bastards off since I run an inline filter anyway! And another: GET RID OF THE TORS ASAP. You can do some seriously easy jetting changes without TORS. Twin K&Ns makes it even easier. Best money I have spent.

You need to retard your timing (to standard). Running the tight compression domes and advanced timing makes me think you are most likely the victim of detonation. If you want to make big power, now is the time to look at a stroker crank, clearance the case to fit, and to bore out those cylinders. You are gonna be spending some money just to bring it back to where it is, and to run safe, you wiil be down on power unless you upsize your beast.

A guy here in Portland (Twister Performance) pioneered the 3- cylinder banshee motor. I know he puts nitrous to them and gets something like 200 hp. Didn't know some maniac would go the turbo route. Personally, I think it would SUCK. Since it's a 2-stroke, it needs an expansion pipe. So you can't have the tubo close to the motor, lag would be a real bitch, impossible to overcome due to the necessary distance between turbo and motor. Gone the 2-stroke 'snap', now something more like a jet engine . A lightweight 4 stroke with turbo would be a lot more fun to ride.

Amen, brother. If I had it to do over, I never would have bought new. They are so tough that if it hasn't been stomped on, there won't be anything expensive wrong. I feel like an idiot storing all the factory crap I have replaced with aftermarket, since it is all worthless. After 6k for her and about another 6k in goodies, I could have A LOT more bike if I had bought used. For god sake, buy a clean older one and put on new plastic in a modern color and YOU WILL have a new machine; they are essentially all the same. I beat mine up so bad in the tree shots it looks 10 years old, and it's an '03! -which is what I bought it for, but it seems like a shame in retrospect (sigh). Money wasted is soo depressing!

Dude, get a book! Clutches aren't that complicated, but you need ALL the parts together in the right order for them to work!

Honda HP 80 wt. (It's not a blaspheme if it works!)

Joey, I saw your post on another board while looking for info on why mine is screwing up. No reply from those loozers , so at least I guess we finally found a good home here! Mine has almost exactly the same problem: Runs great on the right side, little or nothing on the left. Initially, the problem was an intake leak from a damaged/defective grommet sealing the ProFlow boost bottle to the intake. As I have had this problem before, I have removed the boost bottle and gone back to the factory balance tube, modified to fit the ProFlow intake. After that minor repair however, I ended up with the dead cylinder problem. I swapped from side to side the: carbs, spark plug wires and reeds; no change. With new plugs, the left cyl. would fire properly for a few seconds then start cutting out again . Plug would foul, with some smoke from the exhaust but no actual combustion. I have completely torn down the carbs (with which I am very familiar due to jetting changes after every mod), and found no problems. I removed ALL jets, cleaned with carbkleen and compressed air, and installed new needle/ seat assys. Compression test showed 125 (L), 115® after 10 kicks, and about 150 psi max (both) with 20 kicks. My riding buddies are all professional mechanics like me (heavy equipment and automotive, not ATV/motorcycle) and we are pretty savvy. None of the guys could figure out what the deal is. Finally, I have torn down the top end and found some minor erosion of the piston crown on the left side, right looks perfect. Cylinders look great with no scoring. I am assuming that since I have not always run a race gas mix with my .080 shaved head, and the possibility of a lean mixture on the left side due to an intake leak that I have had some detonation issues finally cause damage to the piston/ ring's ability to properly seal the combustion chamber. I will be installing forged pistons with high quality rings in the very near future, and will post with the results.