ssanddemon

Yep, it's a bitch. Gotta remove the crank, take it to a machine shop and they have to press the crank apart. Gotta replace the rods with new bearings, reassemble, true the crank and might as well weld it while you are there. Or spend the same amount of money and buy a new crank, loaded and ready to install.

I just put a set of 3's on my other bike yesterday, didn't notice anything like that. Pics?

Prolly, what's your compression?

I'm guessing the regulator took a crap or got unplugged (blue wire to the little silver box behind the coolant bottle) and is burning up the bulbs.

Is it running the same on both cyls? I mean when you hold your hand behind each silencer, does it feel like one is running better, or popping harder than the other?

The basic rule of timing is this: run the most advanced timing you can WITHOUT pinging. The factory sets these motors up to run on any type of crappy gas without pinging. That's why everyone who runs +4* is fine, our gas here in the US is pretty decent compared to many other parts of the world. More than +4* chances pinging unless a race gas mix is run, tho mine still runs fine on super (91) at +7*. No gains at all from running stock or retarded timing, just less chance of the pings.

Stock needle & seat ain't cheap! I think I paid like $38 at the stealership. But if it's leaking gas and the float level is right, then you need it.

Could very well be a bad cable- finally wore thru the liner and is eating on the housing. I'd slap a new cable on her.

Yep, coughing back into the filter is the sure sign of a bad reed.

Bottom.

Make sure to use the adapter with the deep threads just like the spark plug has. The shorter one will give a low reading.

I think it's one of those things that are nice but not necessary. I was toying with the idea of a juice clutch but decided to go with an ASV perch & lever instead. Magura promises a 20% reduction in clutch pull and obviously it never needs adjusting since it is hydraulic. But for 1/2 the price, I got a decent pull reduction, adjust on the fly, and a much nicer and better quality lever setup than Magura offers (tho ASV does have a lever for the Magura clutch as well for ultimate pimp factor). Just my .02- just about anything beats the factory set up.

Got the new ASV lever setup installed today, but the cable is backordered. Still, a huge improvement over previous clutch pull with the orginal lever setup. With a new cable, I think the pull will be maneageable with all the Toomey springs in there.

Yep, to check a connection thru the stator, just connect one of your leads to the stator base plate or timing plate body- that's ground on the stator. The other to the connector spade you are testing.

This is correct, but: more oil (richer premix) does in fact cause a leaner air/ fuel ratio.

The very first thing to try is to make sure that the coil ground connection is good and tight, and that the frame is clean where the coil ground attaches. Make sure the coil connections are tight and clean.

You can modify the stock plate as well: elongate the mounting holes to allow the plate to rotate 1/4 inch or so counterclockwise. -That's the only difference between Ricky S's and a stock plate, his holes are elongated and have the degree marks stamped in. I believe it is about 2* per 1/16" in rotaion. Do a search here, you will find more detailed instructions. The typical advance is 4 degrees and usually requires no additional fuel octane to prevent pinging. I am running 7 * advance with about 155 psi compression and it still doesn't ping on 91 octane- but a half and half race gas mix at about 100 octane makes the bike scream! Overall, a 4* advance is a must-do for anyone.

Yep, all the BS is removed... I call it a trail port because I did it myself; raised the exhausts about 4 mm, widened about 2mm on either side. Knife-edged and narrowed the intake seperators and put a good pebbled surface on the tracts as well. Case matched cyls, cut head, V. F. 3s etc. from my sig. I want to get it on the dyno at Twister in a couple of weeks to have them eyeball my setup and give me some more power ideas, but it runs 320-330 mains depending on the outside temp, 30 pilots and 7 degree timing. I only know that my other shee with Fatties, K&Ns and Noss with 21s should be about 45 horses. It runs neck and neck with piped 450s, so this sounds about right. This one with the clutch issue has massively more than that, pulls two gears higher up the same dune and gets white knuckles and "oh shit" from other guys who have ridden it; wheelies in 6th gear in the sand; I really have no idea what the hp is tho. Got a set of ASV C-5 levers and a new clutch cable coming soon, I'm gonna see how bad the pull is with all the Toomey springs and see if the problem goes away. I have heard good things about Jeff's clutch, if my curent setup is intolerable, I am gonna get one.

Thanks for the replies... Unfortunately, I am already running 3 and 3 springs (or is it 4&4? can't remember) and it's a brutal pull tho I like the idea of a new cable. The more I dwell on this, the more it seems that it's gotta be slipping; because all I ever do is dump the clutch to get going anyway- no reason to feather it, just boom & go. So for it to really heat up, I would need many launches in a row. Not just one, a steep climb under power and a gooey- feeling lever at the top of the hill. Power is enuff on this bike, if it were slipping just a little, I'd most likely never feel it. Well, I know the frictions are good because I looked at em 2 weeks ago. Guess it's time to put in the new steels and start using all the toomey springs, much as my arm hates the idea. Lockup is probably gonna be next.

Bump? No help?

The seal has a raised ridge running all around the outside which mates in a groove in the top and bottom halves of the cases- makes em 'lock in' so crankcase pressure doesn't let them spit out. I have replaced em by drilling a small hole thru the seal, paralell to the crank. Then run a sheet metal screw into each hole and tighten alternately. The screws will bottom off the crank bearings and as you tighten them, the seal will be drawn out. Slime up the new seal with Locktite 515 (which will semi-harden and help lock the seal in properly even if the ridge gets a little dinged up when driving in) and it will drive in with a hammer and seal driver. It's kinda a pain, but way better than splitting cases. As a side note, if the evil gods are against you, you could mess up a bearing cage so beware; which would mean splitting cases to replace the bearing. So to me it is always worth a try and so far the three I have done have all been OK.

OK, so plugs are good... take a look at the reeds? Keep in mind that a rich mixture won't burn up the motor. I would def. look at the reeds and make sure they are laying flat. You need good reeds to get an accurate compression test anyway. So then do the comp. test, I bet it's fine if it is starting up ok. It could be the CDI, ign. pickup or magneto killing the spark as well. Do a search for Meat's electrical FAQ page for very good test proceedures. But I bet if reeds are good, compression will also be good and that you have something electrical going on.

If you ran it richer than crap for a couple days, I bet the plugs are f'ed up. Try a new set?

Yep helps a lot, especially on the bottom end. Both mods help the engine to rev quicker. Ricky Stator has the plate only, or the plate on a 200w stator, which I have. And I saw that they will be offering lightened flywheels soon. Otherwise, there are a few guys here who will do a good job lightening your flywheel; and by slotting the holes in your existing plate, you can do the adj plate mod for free. Do a quick search, I have run across detailed directions for this mod- looks easy.

Wondering what the big power guys are doing to keep the clutch from heating up massively on hillclimbs in the dunes, short of a lockup. Mine is going from 1/16-1/8" free play at the grip lever to like 1". Gotta adjust 'er up, but when shee cools down, the adjustment comes back and it's too tight. Doesn't seem to be slipping one bit, just massive heat on the launch, sometimes I'm fanning in the real (Oregon) wet stuff. I'm thinking that the steels are warping from the heat; had it apart for a new basket a few weeks ago, and they were a bit blue then, probably real dark now since I just built some more power into her and shee's heating the clutch up more than before. I have a new set of steels to go with my existing toomey fibers, but I want to get it figured out before changing out the old steels. I have the springs at half toomey and half stock (which just about kills my arm) and have been running JD-20 tractor oil. I am thinking of trying a good grade of ATF, but I don't think it protects the gears as well. Since I like to change the trans oil a lot, I don't want to spend $8 a quart on the foo-foo stuff; but I will if I need to. Obviously, a lockout is the next step, but I would like to keep the motor at this level for now- moneywise. Any suggestions?