ssanddemon

Topend fer sure. It's no big deal to build the top, make sure you have a Clymer's book and dig into it! Takes about 1 to 2 hrs to pull it down, 2 to 3 to put back together (rookie speed); obviously no big thang. Some great package deals on ebay, $250 or so for everything.

Chris, many ebay dealers will ship overseas if you ask nicely and are willing to pay a bit extra for handling. As far as mods, how easy is it to get race gas where you are? If it's difficult, I would stay away from head shaving, it only really shines with a race gas mix. A 4 * degree key is cheap and effective, safe for normal gas with an unshaved head. Pipes and airbox lid removal (better yet, an aftermarket filter for proper dirt filtration) will show great gains over factory power. And sending out the flywheel for lightening will be well worth the hassle. Keep in mind to rejet the carbs with ANY air/ fuel mods, no matter how small (the airbox lid is a good example, 1 to 2 jet sizes larger). Just get out there and start emailing those ebay dealers. I suspect you will be pleased by the results!

A quick note here; I checked the stator's ohm readings according to the Clymers and it was real close to the proper readings (like a couple ohms). I said hell with it and bought a new one, and sure enuff that was it.

Personally, I'd make my buddy get involved! Your type of problem is why I loan the toys out less and less as I get older. Good luck, man!

Yank the motor, pull the jugs off, then the upper case. The crank and trans sits in the botom case, easy as pie.

OK, 9" is the factory wheel size. 10 x10 and 10x8 wheels are what you are gonna find for the most part, and as long as the tire is close to the 10" wide range they will fit that size rim (8 or 10 tall).

Mine did that, it was the lighting coil side of the stator. Luckily Ricky fixed me up with a high output jobbie.

I finally got around to switching my V Force's reed mouning tabs over to the 'low' side. With my TR-6 pipes, it made a BIG difference compared to the 'high' side. Got LOTS more bottom end, top end didn't suffer at all. The TR-6 loves bottom end mods, apparently.

I had a similar problem and it ended up being the crank seal. Like a dipshit, I put it in backward when I had the motor apart for crank welding. Ran great for two years of hard use, then it sat for 6 mos. Ran like crap after that. I think it had been edgy but still sealing, then started leaking because it had dried out from sitting. Pain in the ass to replace if you don't have the cases split.

Nope, not normal. Have you drained the gear oil and looked for (big) metal?

I have heard great things about the FZR streetbike setup, Yamaha of Florence (Oregon) has one; I'm sure several other dealers do as well. Haven't heard about the YZ 490 setup but I used to have the bike and it had a great clutch, really progressive, easy dial the power with. I abused the hell out of that bike, couldn't kill it in the three years I had it.

I have the Toomey, it's pretty aggressive. Lots better feel and doesn't heat up with hard use and get grabby/slippy like the stocker. Make sure to run something like a 1/2 (Toomey) and 1/2 (factory) mix with the springs, you have gotta be an ape to pull the full Toomey spring pack. I'm at 1/2 and 1/2 and no chance of slippage at all, just easy 3rd gear wheelies. -It's held up great thru 3 years of fanning and powershifting in the dunes.

So the rim is 11" high, 10" wide, right? And the tire fits a rim 11" high and 11" wide? So the problem is that the tire width is 1" wider where it mounts? I believe it should work just fine, someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'm basing this on automotive experience, where several inches difference in tire widths can be used on the same rim.

These guys should be making boost bottles with wings too.

I know on my nitro/alcohol R/C car you are supposed to run them dry when done because of near instant corrosion if you leave fuel in.

And that's to get the alky out which is a water attracter/corrosive, right?

+ they save a lb. or 2 of usnprung weight. Not sure about tubing type, but I think round tube is way stonger.

Here's a better detail pic of the right peg.footpeg kicker side

I'd try like 3 sizes up on the main, maybe buy a couple more in the upper and lower sizes around there, most bike shops let you return the unused ones if they're in good shape. But yes, the (auto) clutch may not be holding as well.

No grease, it just attracts crap. The plastic of the tube lubes itself on the aluminum of the housing and handlebar. Throw that old cable out and stick a new one on there while your'e at it. I swap mine out every couple of years ever since I had one break after a 300 mile drive to the dunes.

www2.hotboat.com/image_center/showphoto.php?photo=68235 www2.hotboat.com/image_center/showphoto.php?photo=68234 Well, cut and paste I guess, I'm too burned out to screw with it more tonite! This is the setup, tho.

Took the pics, but my lameness isn't getting the job done. Sorry, I'll try to get 'em up tomorrow!

I used to use honda HP (80 wt), but she is really hard to find neutral on. Switched out to john deere tractor oil. Don't laff, it's a 10 wt that's formulated to lubricate gear faces as well as providing anti-foamers for clutches. Works great!

I think blaster pegs are one of the best mods I have done. It always seemed to me that some lawyer at yamaha decided to make people sit forward on the bike to keep the front end down, so they make the pegs real far forward like on a harley. After a lifetime of riding dirtbikes, it seemed totally wrong as well as causing leg cramps on bumpy terrain. The blaster pegs put your feet right under your butt, makes riding much more comfortable and puts your ass back in the saddle where it wants to be. They do need some minor mods around the kicker and you can't use the heel baskets, so they're not for everyone, but I love mine. Getting a tig welder later this week, gonna fab the heel baskets back on. I used my original pegs to lengthen the blaster pegs for sidehilling. Makes it easier to ride with my honey on the back, too.

Some guys (including me) like the rear brake to be set 'tight' with just a tiny amount of travel until the brake applies. Unfortunatley, if the brake adjustment does not allow the piston to travel back over the feed hole from the reservior, then the fluid is trapped in the line and cannot get back to the reservior. It works fine until you ride and the brake fluid heats up from brake usage. Then it expands and begins to apply the brake even though you are not stepping on the pedal. The cure is to have just enough free play so that the bleed hole to the reserior is open. Sounds like what you have got. You probably smoked the pads if the rotor is fried, but otherwise it will probably be OK.