RBD

It's probably your compression gauge. Unless it is a good quality gauge like a Snap-on and well kept, the gauge may not be giving you true readings. Also when using a compression gauge you need to hold the throttle wide open and kick the engine over very briskly. It also helps to remove the other cylinders spark plug. Ron

Even if you decide to get a new crank it would be a good idea to have it welded

You really need to replace the shaft. As for how this happened... hard to say. If your engine kicked back when trying to start it (it would have had to hurt) or a chunk of something went between the kick start idler gear and clutch basket gear (you would have defiantly felt or heard that too) What was the reason for tearing into bottom end anyway??? Ron

Replace them!

Stock pilots are #25 and I think #27.5's work great!

Carb size it determined by the bore diameter of the carb body measured at the slide.

If the head has not been milled (stock), it can be repaired by milling and squish-bands reconfigured for about $70.00.

If the main shift shaft adjustment was off and you had to adjust it, I would but it back together and try it. Also while you are in there make sure you clutch is adjusted properly and the steel plates are not blued and warped.

Sounds like they didn't really want to work on it.

It is quit normal to have to rotate the transmission shaft to go through the gears.

My question to this is why? Is this to lower port timing and bump compression? Also, I can think of better sealents to use for this other than silicone.

I'd start with + 4*

Also check and make sure the choke cross over tube is in place...

Was that $170.00 for two carbs or each carb?

I really don't think it is a porting problem, sounds to unlikely. The reason that your compression is a little lower is probably do to the exhaust ports being raised. Ron

Make sure that the choke cross over tube is connected to both carbs.

Make sure that the choke cross over tube is connected to both carbs.

How did it shift the last time you were out on it? When you road it this time was the problem shifting right off the get go? Ron

A word about compressing gauges, they are not all that accurate and are best used as a comparison between cylinders. Only a good compression gauge such as a Snap-on will give good results. The ones you buy from auto parts stores and discount places tend to be of and not work that well. Even the best gauges need to be maintained and treated with respect. One thing that happens to compression gauges is the Schrader valve will get dirty from use and then they leak giving low readings. The needle should jump up and stay with every kick and not fall backwards between pluses. When checking compression, hold the throttle wide open and then kick until your leg is ready to fall off or when the gauge no longer moves. Note it will take vigorous kicks several times. Always check the same cylinder two to four times to get a consistent reading. Ron

From what I can see in the picture, it looks like it broke very even and concentric. I would have to say that it was face cut when it was lightened and broke where the machining cut ended. Ron

It would make about 355 cc's Ron

One thing comes to mind is corroded connections and bad grounds. I think that sometimes replacing parts fixes the problem only because grounds and connections are redone in the process. Ron

Check out Ricky's Stator 200W with adjustable timing plate;

It does not matter which ring goes where as they are the same. When you look at the ring end gap you will notice a letter N or numbering on only one side of the rings and this side faces up. Ron

The .100" over size pistons and bore work just fine, even on a built engine