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J12480

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About J12480

  • Birthday 01/24/1980

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    SAN DIEGO, CALI

Previous Fields

  • My Banshee (optional)
    02 BANSHEE, LONESTAR A-ARMS, +2 SWINGARM, WORKS SHOCKS, COOL HEAD, 19 CC DOMES, FMF FATTY PIPES, PORTED/POLISHED JUGS, HOT ROD CRANK, K&N, RS 200WT, CUSTOM POWDERED FRAME, FULLBORE PLASTICS, 8 CUP HAULERS

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  1. Looking for some sand tires for halloween weekend. Would prefer skat trak mohawks but for now I will take what I can get. Rims need to be straight and true with some offset (the more the better). Live in San Diego Area.
  2. Need a billet stator cover and was wondering if anyone knew where I could get one for around 150 bucks? I just need a plain polished cover or maybe one with the tear drop design in it. Thanks for any help
  3. Cool thanks. Ya I had a typo with the wattage of the bulbs I was running 2X75 watt bulbs up front. I blew those out last year and replaced them the other day with 2x50 watts. They blew as well so I traced the problem back to the factory regulator. Ill run the RS regulator and see how that turns out. Thanks again
  4. I did a number of uprades to my shee recently and had a problem with my lights burning out. I know the problem is with the voltage regulator. I installed a ricky stator 200 watt stator. Im running 2X100 watt bulbs up front with a factory rear light. My question is can the factory regulator handle the upgrades or do I need to replace with an aftermarket that can handle more. Also should a relay be installed between the switch and the headlights or can the switch handle the current going through it with out burning up. Thanks for any help
  5. My suggestion... if your crank is older than two seasons replace it. The older the crank the harder it is to balance when you have it welded. If you do any head mods Id say up 21cc domes you can run a stock crank. Anything smaller than 21cc domes... beef up the crank. I bought a new hot rod crank and had it welded/true'd. I run 20cc's on 104 octane fuel. My advice replace the crank and be done with it
  6. It works heres the proof. 8 desert trips and washed afterwards everytime. No chipping or flaking! Its all in the prep work. Clean plastics good and use a light sand paper. No primer needed! I did two coats. Four cans bottom and top. Id rather spend a little money and not worry about scratches then alot of money and shit a brick the first time I scratch it! My ride has seen everything from the colorado rockies to texas cow shit and of course the glamis desert. It works. I also did my stator cover and havent had any problems yet.
  7. one more
  8. one more
  9. Its been a while since I started this project but here are some pics of the finished product. Its simple just the way I wanted it. For now it has green powder coat with chrome flake in it under silver platics. Motor mods include weisco crank welded and trued, Coolhead with 20cc domes, Ported and polished. As for the rest... Duncan Racing clutch, fmf fattys, K&N, Lone Star a-arms, Works Shocks, 200 watt ricky stator, Hella's, Stainless steel bolt kit.
  10. I did the frame in green powder coat with a silver flake in it. The plastics were done with the krylon silver. Also did the stator cover Ill get some pics up a little later. Didnt get any pics this weekend at the desert. First ride... my girl broke her arm and spent the rest of the trip in the hospital!
  11. I finished the project since these pictures. Ill get some more this weekend out at the desert
  12. Works great. Just got done doing my plastics and side cover with it. If prept right will work fine.
  13. I had mine done for 350 and the guy told me what ever I wanted done on the bike for $350. Custom color plus clearcoat. Also included prep and final prep when completed.
  14. I'd have to say it worked. I put on about three coats plus two clear coats. Not too bad for 50 bucks
  15. I was curious about this paint so I spent last weekend trying it out. These were my results...not to bad for a rookie.
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