fastbanshee8

I bought a set of CPI's several months ago, and they fit like shit. The silencers were so bad, that I had to send them back for another set. When I got the new ones back, they fit better, but I still had to drill out the mounting holes on the silencers, and make some spacers for the front pipe mounts, plus I still had to fight the right silencer, to get it to go on the pipe. Overall, I probably wasted 6-8 hours putting the pipes and both sets of silencers on, and getting them to fit and look decent. If I had it to do over, I'd get the Shearer's. Seems like CPI is more interested in quantity, and not quality. My Shee runs real good with the CPI's, so it's up to you. Shearer's or CPI's will make it rip.

I wasn't asking for jetting advice for a Keihin carb, and I wouldn't run Keihin's if someone gave me a set. It's not the pilot, because I can go out and start it, and it will set there and idle fine, for however long I wish. I backed the main down one size, and it's fine now. When I bought the 34mm Mikuni's, I had about $200 in Mikuni jets, so it would have been kinda stupid to buy Keihin's, and then have to buy all new jets. It runs like a raped ape, now.

If you are here illegally, then HELL NO, you don't belong here.

Evidently, you don't realize how many of these people are on government assisted programs, like welfare, and so on. All of the money for assistance programs, comes from our tax dollars. I think we can find a better use for tax dollars, than to support illegals.

Oops, I screwed up, it is a 50 pilot. How much smaller should I go on the pilot, because I have 45's, 40's, 35', and 30's all on hand. Sorry about that.

Everyone that I talked to said the 30 pilot should be right, including Jeff @ Fast, but every engine is a little different. I runs fine off idle till it gets into the upper mid range, then once in a while, it will stumble a little bit. I'll open up the air mixture screw a little, and see if that helps clean it up a little.

Get it ported, and get some good front shocks. It's personnal preference as to who does the port work, because I just got a local guy to do mine. Tell whoever does your porting, where you want the power, your type of riding, and so on. Then they can figure out what is best for you.

My mods are in my sig. Finally got around to getting the motor broken in yesterday. Temp around 60, and the elevation is 1550. 50 pilot, clip on needle 4th slot from the blunt end, and 320 main. Sometimes it would clean out and run fine at WOT, and sometimes it wouldn't. Do you think it's too fat on the needle, or it's too fat on the main??? If I was riding it real hard, I would run fine, but if I was taking it easy and just cruising around, it wouldn't clean out in the upper RPM's, until I revved the $hit out of it for a while. I'm not sure if it's loading up in the mid range, or if it is fat on top. It's close, but not quite there yet. Anybody with similar mods, that could lend a little advice? I know that it will run worse, when I go to LS in Oklahoma, because of the sand, if I don't get it closer. Thanks. I don't have anywhere around here to do a plug chop. Not enough room, and I live in town.

On the Cool Head, the tops of the domes are sealed by o-rings, that go in the grooves in the top plate, where the dome holes are.

If the pistons you ordered are too small, then it's time for a bore and hone. You will have to take the cylinders to a machine shop and have them measure them, so that you can order the rignt pistons and rings. After, and only after you get your pistons and rings, then the machinist can bore and hone your cylinders. They need to have the pisons, so they know what size to bore and hone the cylinders to.

Fix it. It will be a good learning experience, and you could probably find the parts needed to fix it, either on Ebay, or from some of the people in here, a lot cheaper than you could anywhere else. Hell, I completely wiped my frame out 2 years ago, and had to take everything off, replace parts, seals, bearings, and such, and then move it all over to the new frame. It's interesting, and not too bad to do.

You cannot replace the ball joints in the stock a-arms, because they are welded in. The only choices are, buy new stock a-arms, or buy aftermarket a-arms.

The screens in the tank, that are on the top of the valve maybe plugged. Empty the tank, remove the fuel valve, and check the 2 screens. If they are dirty, you can clean them with carb cleaner, and a little air pressure. I've cleaned mine once, in 10 years, but that doesn't mean your friends aren't in need of a good cleaning.

One day the teacher wanted the class to use the word definately in a sentence. Suzy raised her hand so she called on her. She said, "The sky is definately blue!" "I'm sorry Suzy thats wrong the sky sometimes turns different colors red ,gray etc.. any body else?" Timmy raised his hand and said, "The grass is definately green." "I'm sorry Timmy that's not true either, sometimes the grass dies and it may turn brown, anybody else?" Little Johnny raises his hand and says, "Teacher do farts have lumps?" The teacher says, "no why?" Johnny says, "Then I definately Shit my pants!"

Not a good idea to re-use the head gasket.

If you plan on going from a 38HP stocker, to a 100HP screamer, you better make sure your life and health insurnaces are paid up. I agree with izericson 100%. Port it, pipe it, tune it up, and do other bolt on mods, and then ride it and get used to it, before going wild with the mods, or chances are, it will bite you in the a$$, and hard. Just my $.02.

I found a complete stainless engine bolt kit on Ebay, for less than $20 including shipping.

The only filter(s) needed on a Banshee, are the air filter(s).

Look under the gas tank on the left side, for a little black box, and unhook it. Should solve the problem.

I'm running the 34mm Mikuni Flatslides, and love them. As far as where to get them, I don't know, so just do a search. You will end up spending quit a bit of money, because you will need new intakes, throttle cable, and air filters. I ended up spending $750 on my set-up, and that was over a year ago.

I just checked out the site, and the shell comes with the o-rings. You do not use the stock head gasket on any aftermarket "cool head", because it is completely sealed with o-rings. The benefit of the head is better cooling, the ability to change your domes, which changes your compression, and better low end power, because of the higher compression, if you choose to use the smaller cc domes. I've had a Pro Design Cool Head for 8 or 9 years, and I've only had to put new o-rings in it twice, and I've rebuilt the top end 4 times.

A +4mm stroker crank with stock cylinders, will require the use of stroker domes, unless you plan on using a stroker plate. It's up to you, but I recommend having domes cut for the stroker crank. Just my .02.

I run one, and I think it's great. If you get one, be sure and get the inline charger, to keep the battery charged while riding. I've never had a problem with mine, and I've had it 4-5 years.

If you change your gearing from 14/41 to 13/41, you are gonna have an even harder time getting traction. You will just spin even more, and get beat worse, by the 450. Just my .02.

That's all California needs, a Waffen SS police force. What next, are they gonna tear down an engine and make sure it has stock pistons, compression, cam, etc. Sounds like Hitler is alive and well in CA.