fastbanshee8

Just order the inline charger, that goes between the stator and voltage regulator. It will charge the battery as long as the RPM's are 3500+, plus at 3500+ RPM''s the ignition will run off of the stator, and not the battery. The charger is only about $30-$35, and it plugs right in.

If you opened up your air mixture screws 4 1/2 turns, then you added more air, and leaned it out. Your air mixture screws should be somewhere between 1-2.5 turns out. Try that and see what happens.

Could be that the air mixture screw on the left side needs to be opened up, i.e. turned counter-clockwise. Sounds like the left side could be overly rich, providing you are getting spark. Could also be reeds, or even time for a top end rebuild, if the compression is below 100. or is 10 psi or more lower than the right side.

Replace all bearings, seals, and bushings. I did it, and I'm really glad I did, because I found some pieces that wouldn't have lasted very long.

Here is the website, for the MSD ignition. Just copy and paste it. www.msdpowersports.com/pdf/frm20846.pdf Here is the Vortex igniton. http://www.duncanracing.com/prods/VT-1200-VT-7400

Disconnect the tether kill switch, and try it. I had one, that shorted out, and it wouldn't start.

You will also need to run Blaster pistons, or the 795 series Wiseco pistons, because of the longer rods. With the Blaster pistons, you will have to have your cylinders bored out to .080 over, but if you go smaller on the bore, you will have to run the 795's.

I coated my bolt with anti-seize, and put a grease zerk in the swinger. I've taken the bolt out 2 times in the last 3 years, with no problems.

Sounds like it was very lean. Possibly an air leak.

I had the same problem with mine, and it ended up that there was a groove worn in the exhaust flange coming off of the cylinder. I cleaned it up real good, and used a good 2 part epoxy to fill the groove in. After letting it dry for 24 hours, I sanded it down to match the rest of the flange, installed a new o-ring, and no more leaks.

You can leave the aftermarket CDI boxes set on the "factory" settings, and just plug it in, and ride. The MSD is adjustable with switches on the back, so it's easy to change, if you ever want to. The Dyna has 4 pre-set curves, that you can pick from, so it's not like it's difficult or anything. Other than the ones I listed, I don't know of anything else out there.

Dyna, MSD, and Vortex are all aftermarket CDI box makers. I run the MSD, and several people in here, run the Dyna. You'll have to make the choice, depending on your riding style, and personal preferrence.

It has to be one of the following problems, 1.) sticking float, or 2.) a bad needle and seat above the float, or 3.) float level set to high. These are the only things that cause fuel to pour out the overflow tubes.

The stock ones will work for 26-28 mm carbs, if they are in good shape.

Did you get the two aluminum spacers, and the four rubber bushings, with the silencers? If not, that is your problem.

He's kidding, right? What a POS!!!

That's about as smart as wiping with poison ivy.

Sounds more like an ignition or fuel problem.

Looks like the ass end, of a hard time!!

I have a friend, that used fiberglass insulation, but it burns up rather quickly. If you just need something to get you by for a few days, then it will work. If you are looking for a long term solution, then I don't know of anything else, other than the repacking from the bike shops.

I've had a set of FMF Fatties for 7 years, and they haven't rusted. If you take care of them, they won't rust. Great pipes, although there are some with a better finish, they still perform great, and look good, if you take care of them.

It makes a noticeable difference, when going from stock silencers, to an aftermarket silencer. The stock silencers are pretty restrictive. Every Banshee is a little different, so you may not have to rejet, but I'd say the odds are, that you will rejet.

Probably wouldn't be a good idea. Anytime you increase the engine capacities, on the intake and/or exhaust side, then you should rejet, unless you want to burn it up, by running too lean.

Take the carbs off, and spray off the outside real good, and then take them apart, and use the carb spray on them. Do one carb at a time, to avoid mixing up the slides and bowls.

Hutchinson, Kansas