fastbanshee8

There are 3 sets of cases on Ebay right now. Check them out, and see if you want them.

The Janssen a arms, require spindle reaming, before they can be installed. If you get the heavy duty tie rods, you will also have to ream the bottom of your steering stem. It's a lot of work, and you can never run any other a arms, unless they have the big ball joints.

Try turning in the airscrew on each carb 1/2 turn, and see if it will start.

The only difference between a Harley rider and a vacuum cleaner, is the location of the dirt bag.

8 paddle Haulers, hands down.

I run 15/40 with a stock length chain, and I have no problems at all. It pulls fine in all the gears, but I've got more than just bolt on mods.

Get a cable luber and lube the clutch cable. You can cut a few coils off of the carb springs, to lighten up the pull, but make sure they are the same length on both sides.

Unless you have an aftermarket head, the only o-rings in a Banshee are the aluminum pipe, coming from the clutch cover, and the exhaust pipe o-rings.

The yellow/red, is the power wire coming from the voltage regulator to both the high and low beams of the head lights.

Sounds like your stator might be getting weak.

Try doing an internet search for Sudco Mikuni. They carry a lot of carb parts, even for stuff that's old as dirt.

I got out my Clymer's manual, and it says to check the pickup coil, which is the little black box that sits behind the flywheel. You might want to clean any rust off the flywheel pickup points, while you have the cover off. If everything is good there, then check the wiring harness for shorts or breaks, and check all of the plugs, and make sure they are clean and making good contact. If all of this stuff passes, and the carbs are clean and adjusted correctly, then the CDI box is faulty. All of this is according to the manual.

I think that they are either modified stock cages, or FMF Ram Valves. The Ram Valves are a little bit bigger than the stock cages.

It's been forever, since I looked at stock cages, so you could be rignt. A pic would be helpful. The stock cages are gold in color.

Just a guesstimate, but I'd say you have stock cages, with Boyesen Dual Stage Reeds on them.

Take out the pilot jets, and clean them very good. Sounds like you may have some varnish, or dirt in them. It might be best, to let them soak in carb cleaner for a couple of hours, and then blow them out with air, before installing them.

Could be one or both, or it could even be something else. I'd change the coil out first, before digging deeper. Check the easy and cheaper stuff first, when you don't know what's wrong. Good luck. Let us know, when you find out what's wrong.

Try new spark plug boots. They are cheap and easy to change. Electrical problems can come and go, but they tend to get worse, as the bad component warms up.

It depends on how much it's been rode, and how hard it's been rode. More hours and riding it hard, are going to add up to more rebuilds. Maintenance also plays a factor.

Do a search on the site, and you might see what they mean, by priceless!!!!!!!!!!!!

Some people like them, and some don't, but I run one. What they do, is keep the chain from compressing the back shock, which uses some engine HP. This is done, by moving the pivot point of the chain forward, so it's in line with the swingarm pivot bolt. It also does away with the stock chain rollers. It actually puts more HP to the back tires, now whether or not you have the tires to get the HP hooked up to the ground, is up to you. I run mine mostly in the sand at Little Sahara, and I can tell a difference. You will have to replace the sprockets once in awhile, and they aren't real cheap, about $70-$75 for both sprockets and bearings.

That last reply was good. You might try replacing the spark plug boot on the left side. They are cheap, and easy to replace.

I'd replace the basket. I just put a Magnum Vortex clutch basket on my Shee. A good basket, and a lot cheaper than the Hinson.

Contact the crank manufacturer, they should have them, or take one of the o-rings off, and go to a hydraulics repair shop. They will be able to measure the o-ring and get you one.

You need the o-rings, to keep the bearings from spinning in the cases. The clutch side bearing doesn't have an o-ring, but there is a c clip that goes in the groove in the bearing, and in the groove in the case.