fastbanshee8

I have both plastic guards.

No, because the stator bolts to both halves, and you have to get the flywheel off, in order to get to the screws holding the stator on.

His sig said he is running a 13 tooth.

Get a small magnet, and remove the ball bearing and clutch rod, so that you can inspect them. The rod should be straight, and not burned on the ends, and the ball should be nice and round, and not dis-colored from heat.

There is a ball bearing inside, that contacts the clutch rod. That's probably what you are hearing.

Stock main jet size is 190 or 200, depending on location.

55hp, but with the port job, I'd change back to a 14 tooth counter shaft sprocket, or you will spin your tires off, and shift constantly.

Yes you can replace them. I bought one off of Ebay, and it came from Shark Racing. It has a tool, that it comes with, to tighten the nut, and it has 2 allen head bolts, that you tighten down, to lock it in place. No more pipe wrenches. Works real good.

Did you clean the carbs out, before installing them? If not, the pilot jet is probably plugged. Take it out, clean it with carb cleaner, and blow it out with compressed air.

The carbs are 35mm. To convert inches to mm, multiply inchesx25.4.

Measure the inside diameter.

Don't feel bad about the quality of fit on the CPI's, because I had to send a set of silencers back for replacement. The right side silencer was pointing down, and the left side silencer was pointing up. There was over an inch of difference, and it looked like crap. CPI needs to get some kind of quality control in place, because their quality of fit, usually sucks.

Fastoys has the 795 series pistons, and depending on the port job, you may get by with what you already have. Talk to the guy that ported your cylinders, and he should be able to answer your question about whether or not it will work good with a stroker crank.

+4mm stroke will work with no case mods, but while you're at it, you might as well increase the rod length by +5mm for better longevity. If you increase the rod length, use the Wiseco 795 series pistons, and forget about the spacer plate. Have a set of domes cut for you Noss head, for the stroker crank. That's it. I just put a +4mm stroker, +5mm longrod crank in my Shee, and I'm pretty sure the above mods, are the way to go. The spacer plate really doesn't do any justice to the stroker crank. Just my .02. PM Fastoys, if you have any other questions. He is the one I talked to, before I did my engine.

An axe comes to mind, but seriously, you can use a hack saw, die grinder, jig saw, or anything else, that has a fine tooth blade or not very aggressive grinding wheel. I taped mine off with masking tape, to prevent scratching my plastic, and cut slowly. Take your time, and do a good job on the prep work, and it will come out fine.

You have to adjust them constantly, for the parking brake to work. Everytime that the back brakes are used, the pads wear down, and the parking brake doesn't grab as well. The parking brake mod, also gets rid of a bunch of extra junk and weight. I took mine off, within the first 6 months of owning it, and I've never missed it.

If the right side isn't getting hot at idle, then the pilot jet is probably plugged. You said you only cleaned the main jets, but the mains don't flow fuel at idle, the pilots do. You will need a small screwdriver to pull out the pilot, in order to clean it.

Maybe the P.P. stands for Piss Poor. After looking at the piston and the burrs, that must be what it stands for.

Low compression, too lean of a pilot jet, or a weak stator, all come to mind.

You will loose a lot on the bottom end. Been there, done that, but I only rode it around the house one time, and it sucked. No bottom end, and it wouldn't rev up, like it did with the silencers.

If I think about it, I turn on the gas, a few minutes before starting it, so that the bowls get full of fuel. Winter time jetting can be tricky, because of the wild temperature changes. I usually have to adjust my air mixture screws everytime i ride, depending on the temp changes. I can't believe you started your Shee, in the house.

Mine will sometimes idle high, when I first start it, if it has been setting for awhile. I think it's because, the carb bowls aren't full of fuel, and it's being starved for fuel. It doesn't last very long. Close your air mixture screws a little bit, and see if that helps.

Close down your air mixture screws, and see if it idles down. Make sure both screws are adjusted the same. There isn't a fast idle adjustment, just an idle adjustment, and an air mixture screw.

ProDesign makes an aluminum impellar, and you will have to get a new washer and c-clip. I'm not sure if the impellar going bad caused the hole in the pison, because I've never had the problem. Usually, a hole in the piston is caused from being lean. Maybe a plugged jet, or air leak.

Yes, MSD does have the inline charging circuit. I believe that's what they call it. I got my whole setup, from someplace in Texas, but I can't remember the name of the place. I found a site on the net, that has the part number and installation info. You may have to copy and paste it, but here it is; msdpowersports.com/pdf/frm26214_4214.pdf Should tell you everything you need to know. One thing I forgot to mention was that I have a 275 watt stator in my Banshee, and it doesn't take long to charge the battery. I do keep the charger I got from Radio Shack in my truck, when I go riding, just in case. If I'm in a hurry and the battery is dead, which has only happened twice in 3-4 years, I just plug it in for 10-15 minutes, and take off, but with that small of a charge in the battery, you don't want it to idle very long at all.