fastbanshee8

Anything bigger than a +4mm stroker, and the stock cases would have had to been trenched to accept the crank, or you have to have aftermarket cases, such as Matoon's, which are big $$$$.

If it's a long rod for sure, then chances are it's a +4mm stroke, +5mm longrod.

I bought it brand new in May of 96. I've had to replace the frame once, because of an endo, but Shee's my baby, and I'm keeping her until I can't ride anymore.

I got mine from the White Brothers catalog, but that was about 5-6 years ago.

It sounds like it's sucking tranny fluid past the right side crank seal. Time for a tear down.

Banshee speed calculator Use this, and you'll have to input the max RPM's, front, and rear sprocket sizes, and the rear tire size. It will give you a close estimate of top speed for each gear.

What's a Banshee?

Incorrect float level, bad plug boot, flywheel pickup gap incorrect???? Once you find, and correct the problem, it would be a good idea to repack the silencers, because the packing in the left side is probably swimming in fuel/oil.

This has been discussed on here before, and it's not recommended to run in-frames without silencers. Not only is it objectionally loud, which tends to piss off others, and just give them one more thing to gripe about, when it comes to ATV's, but the pipes were designed to be ran with silencers for the best performance. PM Fastoys, or one of the other local experts, if you don't believe it.

More than likely, it will run like shit, since the pipes were designed to be ran with the silencers. The pipes need a certain amount of back pressure to work right. By removing the silencers, and putting straight pipes on it, you are taking away the back pressure.

Get a magnetic drain plug, and put it in next time you change the oil. FAST Racing has them. Just some cheap insurance.

It's too lean. It could be an air leak, or improper carb adjustments. I'd try to find the problem, before running it much, or you could end up rebuilding the top end.

Turn your air mixture screws in 1/4-1/2 turn on each carb, and see if that helps. If you end up with the air mixture screws less than 1 turn open, then you will have to go up one size on the pilots, and re-adjust the air mixture screws. Just make sure both air mixture screws are adjusted the same.

The cushion ring is for the stock clutch only. It's not needed with aftermarket clutches.

Put a new frame on the Shee, and keep it. A new frame is a lot cheaper, than a new 450 4 poke.

Bad spark plug boot, too much gap between the flywheel, and the pickup coil, or simply a bad spark plug. Even if the plugs are brand new, they can still be bad.

I bought a set from Fast Racing a little over a year ago, so just click his banner at the top of the page, to get a price.

I have the MSD ignition, and they do make an inline charging system for it, that plugs in between the stator, and the voltage regualtor. It will charge the battery while riding, as long as the RPM's are above 3500, but you will need a cheap charger, that you can plug into a wall outlet, or hook up to a 12 volt battery on a car or truck. Sometimes the battery will lose it's charge, if the bike sits for extended periods of time.

FMF's like a larger pilot jet. Get two 27.5 pilot jets, install them in both carbs, and set your air mixture screws at 1.5-2.0 turns out, then start it.

I've got a 250 watt Moose stator, that was ordered from the White Brothers Catalog. I've had it for 4 years, and I've never had a single problem with it. Any parts dealer with a White Brothers Catalog should be able to get it for you.

The acorn nuts from Fast Racing are $15, plus whatever shipping, and tax will cost. Just click the Fast Racing banner, and look at the site.

You need to clean the CD's that you put in your computer, just like the ones that you put in a CD player on a stereo. It also might help to get one of the lens cleaners, and run it on the computer. I've had several CD's not load right on the computer, and it's usually because they are dirty, or scratched. You can buy stuff to fix both problems.

It's definately time for a new top-end, with readings that low. If you continue to run it that way, you will probably end up blowing it up, and having to spend alot more money to get it running again. Do it right the first time, so you aren't always wondering how much longer it will be, before it finally lets go.

It cost me $55 to get my +4 swinger sandblasted, and PC'ed in Silvervein. It sounds like they are charging a little too much.

The zerk trick would work for you. Just take the inner seal out of each bearing, before installing the bearings. They pop out easily, with a small screwdriver, or pick.