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Here a link to the Badlands website. There is a page with directions. If you let me know exactly where you are coming from, I can come up with some more detail directions. http://www.badlandsoffroad.com I'll let you guys know when we are going next time, hopefully with a little more advanced warning. But this time of year it is hard to plan trips in advance, because I won't ride if it is below 20

Now I know what swingarms you are talking about. They look pretty good, except I don't like that they do not have any extra gusseting between the cross tube that the shock linkage bolts to and the side rails. But from the previous post, it sounds like they are holding up fine.

I also like my 13 tooth front sprocket. A lot of people like using a 15 tooth instead. It is definately a matter of preference. The only way to know what is best for you is to try it.

I didn't know that Yamaha made extended swingarms.

Yep, every single time that I turn my Banshee over, I bend the steering stem. I have restraightened it so many times that I am worried about its strength. I want to get a good aftermarket piece, but $400 is a lot of money for something that doesn't make the shee go faster or handle better. Lots of people that I know that own Banshees have bent the U bar back. Luckily, I have only done this once. A lot of the used banshees that I look at have the steering stem pushed back into the tank. IMO it is a major design flaw by Yamaha. I added some gussets to mine after I straightened it. Maybe that is why I haven't bent it again. If you have access to a welder, I suggest doing the same.

Rod, we plan to meet @ 10:30 at the usual spot in the lower parking lot, near the shelter.

Find two trees that are about 10 ft apart. Grab a log chain and a come-a-long (hand winch). Chain the rear of the quad to one tree. Preferably around the carrier. Then us the come-a-long to pull the U-bend towards the other tree. When you do this, have all of the plastic on the quad, but don't have the three bolts installed near the steering stem. Keep pulling with the winch until the plastic mounting holes line up. You might have to pull the frame just a little past that point, because it may spring back a bit once you take the tension from the winch off.

One more thing, some people complain about having no idle, or a bad idle when they remove the TORS. This is because they do not install the idle screws. If you get these installed properly, then it will idle fine.

You are not installing new air screws. You are installing new idle screws. The actually come in contact with the carb slides. The end of the screws are tapered. So the farther they are screwed in, the higher they will hold the slide, and thus the higher the idle will be. The stock air screws will work the same as before. In the stock configuration, the slide stop for the idle is in the TORS carb top. Which is why you need to add the idle screws when you remove the stock carb tops.

It is possible that one slide stuck open and freed itself by the time you took it apart to check it. The stock carbs are notorious for sticking. They seem to stick worse when they get wet. Did you just ride through a puddle? Was the humidity really high?

Congratulations Ray. You will find that it is great having a wife that rides. Instead of ATVs being a wedge in your marriage, like it is for a lot of couples, it ends up being the second best way to spend time together.

It looks like I'll be at the Badlands with a few friends on Friday. Does anyone want to join us? The current forecast is: Mostly cloudy, with a high around 45. We have had quite a bit of rain lately, so the woods will be a little muddy. But the sand and gravel pits always dry up quickly.

I agree, but you should be able to adjust the rear ride height back to where it was with the stock swingarm by adjusting the preload on the rear shock.

Yes a hanger is supposed to be used. I looks like a miniature version of the front pipe hanger.

It used to be nearly impossible to find neutral in my banshee as well. Then I had boonman modify my shift star. Problem solved.

370's are probably fine as long as it is running OK. I run 390s with the modifications listed below. They are a lot larger than most other banshees with similar modifications, but they are right for my quad.

Did you do that yourself? They look great.

Scotch bright pads are too course, if you are not careful you can scratch your pipes. Use 0000 steel wool and brake cleaner. They should shine right up.

You don't have to do anything with the plugs. I just cut mine off. But to get your banshee to run you will need to unplug the black box under the radiator on the left side. This is a three wire plug.

When your hands get cold, just stop and grab a hold of your pipes for a few seconds. Warms them right up.

Mig welding will work, but I highly suggest having the crack tig welded. The pipes go through extreme temperature swings which causes the metal to expand and contract. Tig welding causes less distortion in the metal, which will help the weld to last longer.

I have been pondering a similar question myself. Except, I am considering TCS shocks instead of Elka's. I think that I am going to wait and save my money for the TCS shocks. I really want my quad to sit a little lower than stock. I definately do not want it any taller. From all of the pictures and comments that I have seen, the YFZ shocks make the Banshee about an inch taller. This is enough to keep me from going with YFZ shocks, for now.

My banshee is black and white. I ride in all conditions and usually bring it home muddy. The white rear fenders look way worse than the front black ones. Both colors show scratches, but the light colored plastic shows the dirt that is in the scratches. You don't see this in the black. For some reason the factory black plastic does not turn white when it is bent as bad as the blue plastics do. I'm not sure if this will hold true for aftermarket plastics.

gunmetal (dark) gray

Interesting information. Hopefully the pro-engine builders that occasionally visit this site will see this post and respond.