mat

After doing some research, the parts manager said that he can have a set to send out on Wednesday. But he still doesn't know what they are and can't give me any information that will help me find them locally. He wants $38 a piece ! I'm not willing to pay this for tie rod ends, expecially since I have to replace three of them. I'm pretty pissed about the whole situation. I missed a race yesterday since my Banshee is sitting in pieces in the garage. I had to ream my spindles to make the original ball joints in the Janssen Arms work. Will yours fit my reamed spindles, or do I have to get another pair of spindles? Please send me a PM with pricing and contact details. I ordered another tie rod end from a different year VW. It is supposed to be in tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I'll get in touch with you.

I ran into a couple of trees during the GNCC Ironman race last weekend and need to replace three of my ball joints on my A-arms. I have the cheaper Janssen A-arms that use automotive style tie rod ends for the ball joints. (I know, I should have gotten Heims ). Anyway, Janssen doesn't have any replacement parts and they can't even tell me what to buy from my local automotive shop. All that Janssen can tell me is that they are used on old Volkswagon Transporters. I ordered a tie rod end from a 1960 VW Transporter, but it didn't work, the taper was too small. Does anybody know a part number or exactly what vehicle and year the tie rod ends came from? Thanks - Matt

Yea, it was a good ride. It's always nice meeting BHQ members. I'm sorry that I missed the big jumping action, especially now that I have seen your (BansheeBoy17) MX pictures and video clip. Your welcome for the help on the hill. I've been there before (except I had brakes). If I would have stuck around longer I might have needed your help on the hills over by the campground. Next time. Jay did you figure out what is wrong with your tranny?

You won't get a quality engineering degree online. Period. Getting an engineering degree is not something that you can do part time, unless you want to spend eight years doing it. In the long run you are better off sucking it up financially for four years and focus on the degree while working a part time job, then you will be able to get a good paying job and will quickly make up for the four years of low pay. Just my $0.02.

I was planning on heading to Haspin acres on Sunday, but it is probably going to be too muddy for us. Maybe we'll head to the Badlands instead. Jay, I'll call you on Saturday to talk about it.

With +4

If you want to clean the tank, just use gasoline or Throttle body cleaner. The TB cleaner will be much nicer to the plastic tank than carb cleaner would be. Take a dowel rod or long handled screw driver and tape a sock to the end of it. Spray some TB cleaner (or gas) in the tank and use the rag (thru the filler opening) to wipe down as much of the inside as you can. I also suggest pulling the petcock of and making sure that the screen is still there and clean.

I had a 2002 K2500 (non-HD) with 3" body lift, 33" all-terrains, 6.0L, auto, shortbed, extended cab..... I usually got 10-11 mpg just running around. Up to 14-15 mpg on the highway empty if I took it easy. 10 mpg towing an open trailer that weighed approximately 5000 lbs to Dumont and back. Don't spend a lot of money on bolt on parts. You won't get the money back in fuel savings for a very, very long time, if ever. If you are really worried about fuel mileage, buy a diesel. I did. My 2005 F250 gets 16 mpg running around and up to 19 mpg on the highway.

Same here.

Grip glue didn't work for me. Instead I use 3M spray adhesive and safety wire. You can get the 3M spray at Home Depot, Menards, or a similar store.

The pictures are hosted on ImageStation, which is why they don't show up on here. But they are still available. To see them you need to right click on the red X, then go to Properties, and copy the Address (URL) into another web browser.

Here is how I used to do it: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...8347&hl=shorten

Hmmmm. I may have to take two trips out west next year. We are already working on plans to be at Glamis for Thanksgiving. Maybe I'll also go to the Northwest in June.

You should be able to buy a new spring pack from Pro-Comp. It may take a little while to get broken in and sag a little like the rest of the springs. But this will be a whole lot cheaper than buying a whole new lift kit.

I also vote three stock springs and three aftermarket springs.

It is harder to turn because you have more weight on your rear tires now. Since they have more weight on them, they bite harder and want to push the front end a little more than before. To turn better, lean forward and to the outside of the turn. This will let the inside rear tire slip and it will turn a lot tighter.

I don't know yet. It is supposed to be hot as hell down here this weekend, I haven't looked at MI's forecast yet. A friend and I had planned on heading up there, but I think he is going to have to work on Saturday, so he is out. My divorce may get finallized this week, if so, I am going somewhere this weekend .

Did you get your motor back yet? Are you going? How about you Rod, are you going this weekend?

I run a -2" swingarm in the dirt and a +3" swingarm in the sand. When I run the longer swingarm I simply add a 10" section of chain using two masterlinks. I haven't had a problem yet and don't see why having two masterlinks would cause a problem. Go for it.

Make sure that your clutch is adjusted properly. Having your shift start machined will make this easier.

I'd really like to go, but I have other plans that weekend.

I've always had good luck with Rocky Mountain ATV. Hell, they even surprised me this year with a $64 gift certificate. It was based on how much I had spent with them last year. Kind of like rewards that credit card companies give, except that I didn't expect this.

I would pass on that truck. I just traded in a 2002 Chevy K2500 4x4 with the 6.0L for a 2005 F250 with the Powerstroke. The Ford is a way better truck. It turns sharper which make parking much easier. It rides smoother, feels tighter, seems smaller (in a good way), and isn't blown around on the road as much. The diesel gets way better mileage, of course, but the 6.0L GM motor is really thirsty. I averaged about 11 mpg. It is a strong motor for only 364 cu in. But it can't compare to the diesel, except for the sound. The GM 6.0L had piston slap so bad that it sounded like a diesel whenever it was started. Sometimes it would even do it at idle when the engine was warm. It never really idled smoothly. Both of these are common problems for the GM 6.0L. Other problems that almost all late model GMs have are: tailgate strap breakage, loose steering shaft (which causes vibration and noise), slip yoke binding, sticky throttle body, and the new brake recall. I don't mean to be GM bashing here, but along with the piston slap, these are problems that almost all of my friends have had with their GMs. From as far back as 1999 to 2004. I can understand a few problems with a newly designed truck, but GM should have fixed these in a year or two. They definately should have been fixed by 2002! Both trucks have top of the line, leather interiors, and I have to admit that the Chevy interior was a little nicer, but that is the only thing that I liked better about the Chevy. I'll never buy another full size truck with a gasoline engine. Even though the diesel cost $5000 more. It will pay for itself in fuel savings and resale value. Plus it has the kind of power that puts a smile on my face. Good luck with your purchase!

Funniest thing I have read in a long time.

I'd like to stop by the campground and have a few beers with you guys, but I'll be out of town Saturday night.