mat

Paddles aren't an absolute necessity, but I suggest buying them before anything else.

I'll second this vote.

Buy a complete kit form RockyMountainATV. For about $50 you will get a new cable, carb tops, and idle screws. Having normal tops on the carburetors makes jetting soooo much easier.

I'm really happy with my +3".

I plan to move the mounting tabs on the frame where the hoses connect to the steel lines. I should be able to move the tabs forward and out enough to keep from having to buy brake lines.

Thanks for the site. I have been looking for a TCS site for a while. I rode FoxZ71's banshee this summer that was equipped with TCS front shocks and I was very impressed. I hadn't heard of TCS before I rode his quad.

Thanks for the explaination. I just haven't gained a full understanding of all the various terms used with shocks. I hear things like SCS, zero-preload, sag control, etc. I'm still trying to learn all of the terms before I lay out any money.

Do you by any chance have the SCS shocks? If so that is why - terminology guys. Please explain.

Yeah..............what exactly is the difference between heims and ball joints???? Besides the fact taht one is lubed and the other isnt??? I guess my janssen arms are the mx-tech arms......."designed for mx" and they came with heims. With the heim joints, I can set ANY camber/castor setup I like....ball joints can only face one way, the heims can be taken apart so you can go a half of a turn. Anyway, what are the pro and cons of the two?? later, Monk Check out this article by Janssen: http://www.janssenmotorsports.com/images/p...%20Document.pdf Heim joints are stronger, but they wear out quickly if exposed to dirt and mud. I have seen them were out on Banshee a-arms in a year in the type of riding that I do. I don't need the strength of the heim joints and I definately don't want to add another yearly maintenance item. Neither ball joints nor heim joints are best for everybody. What is best for you depends on your riding and maintenance style. Matt

I tried this and the sales person that I talked to didn't know. That is why I asked on here, hoping that someone has been through this before. Finally on my third call, just a few minutes ago, I was able to find out that I need a ream with a 1/2" taper per foot, which if I did my math right, calculates out to 2.4

Janssen makes a number of different styles of A-arms from standard width to long travels. Some come with Automotive style ball joints, some come with Heim joints. They actually recommend heim joints for racing and big air jumping. But I do neither of these and don't want to maintain heim joints, so I am buying their cheapest A-arms that have ball-joints and bushings. Thanks for your replies, I'll start searching the Autopart stores for a ream.

Do you have the Toomey TORS removal kit? If so, you may have your throttle cable adjusted incorrectly. If the slides get pulled too far up they can stick in the gasket for the carb tops. This will only happen at full throttle.

I am about ready to order a set of Janssen Racing +2 +1 a-arms. I am going with Janssen because they have the lowest price for chromoly a-arms, they use ball joints and bushings instead of heim joints, and most importantly because they come with a BLACK powder coat finish. The problem is that they require the spindles to be reamed. Can I do this myself? If so, where can I buy the tool? I don't see why it would be a problem to do it myself. I figure all that is necessary is to enlarge the tapered hole. As long as I had a ball joint handy to check my progress I don't see a problem. Am I making this out to be simpler than it really is? I know that Janssen will ream them for free, but this will cost me shipping and most importantly, down time. Plus, I have heard that their service isn't always the quickest. Thanks, Matt

Don't just look in ATV/Motorcycle stores for grips. Most grips that are sold for Mountain bikes and BMX bikes will also fit ATV bars. I used Haro grips on my last set of handle bars. I would still be running them today, but I bent my bars as the result of a dumbass attack.

Use Kerosene, it is much safer than gasoline.

How much money do you want to spend? If you can afford it, then send your cylinders off to get them ported. Are you sure that you need a new crank, or do you just need a new top end? Personally I would have a lot of trouble buying a stock stroke crank. The +4mm stroker cranks don't cost much more than a stock stroke crank. And since you are considering porting anyway, you might as well get it ported for a stroker crank. As far as clamps, I was wondering the same thing myself. I have rejeted my carbs so many times that I have almost worn out the clamps. I have seen people use automotive style hose clamps, but they don't fit into the grooves in the boot correctly, so I would have concerns about these sealing up properly.

Is anyone here riding in the Ironman race, October 23rd in Crawfordsville, IN? Spoin39, how about you, are you still out there?