BigRed350x

Go with Kevin at HJR. You won't be disappointed. Great customer service and great guy to deal with. - Jared

OMG you jacked some of those gears up pretty good.

On the smaller bikes yes, this would probably work. On the big bikes, they would just rip right through the rear brakes. My big block twister would murder the stock brakes if it were in a runaway situation. Also, a lot of the time you are already in gear and riding when this happens and your brakes won't be able to get it under control. If you put it in neutral to try and slow it down, the engine itself will still take off and run away, in which case removing the fuel supply or blocking off the air supply would kill it.

Yep, that's correct. The gears are hardened so keep that in mind if you want to do it yourself. Make sure you keep them cool as you cut/grind on them. Most professional shops that do this will use carbide bits in an end-mill and a rotary table, and will do the cutting with coolant/lubricant flowing onto the gear while its being cut.

Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing can do it for you and has really fast turnaround time. Faster than most of the other shops on here. Give him a call and he can take care of you. His number is in my signature. Tell him Jared sent ya.

I have a 2 into 1 laying around and I'm going to slap it on a duner this summer and see if I notice any difference compared to stock carbs and compared to a set of 34 PJ's.

From your second post I would definitely go towards poor fuel delivery to the carb. The run-away situation is caused by running lean. The bike is basically running on its own detonation. Check your fuel petcock and filters and make sure they are clean. Check fuel line routing and make sure that both carbs are getting adequate fuel supply. If you run the factory fuel line setup, make sure you have the T set up correctly so both carbs get the same fuel flow. Check and clean your needle valves and make sure they open and close correctly and that your floats are set right. Chances are that if your bike encountered a run-away situation for as long as you're hinting at, then you're probably going to have some top end damage. Detonation, melted portions on the pistons, etc. I would at least pop off your head and check things out. Then fix your fuel delivery / carb problems before you try and run it again. In a run-away situation, if you can get to them in time, yank off your air filters and put your hands over the intake for the carbs. As long as its not an air leak causing the run-away, by placing your hand over the air intake for the carb you will cause a massive rich condition and the engine will usually bog out and die. That or just yank the carbs out of the intake boots so the engine isn't getting any fuel at all. - Jared

The pop and backfire is usually a lean condition. Could be your sucking your carb bowl dry or you have an air leak on that side. When you adjusted your floats, are you 100% sure they are set correctly and allowing the bowl to fill to the proper level? They aren't getting hung up on the inside of the bowl are they? I would do a leak-down test and rule out any air leaks. What do your plugs look like? Pull your carb off and clean it all over again. Remove all the jets, the emulsion tube, and the needle valve and make sure the carb really is truly clean. Just popping the bowl off and blasting carb cleaner around in there usually won't get into the spots that really plug up. Some electrical issues can cause the pop and backfire situation, but I would focus on air/fuel delivery first and rule it out as the cause of your issue. - Jared

Kevin does some great work. In my mind its well worth having him do the work & knowing it was done good. Pulling the gears off the trans shafts is a pain in the butt with all the snap rings and washers. I'd gladly pay him to do it the next time around. lol

WOW! I run that same setup on my 10mil. I was starting to wonder if I was the only one who knew about that mod.

Floating the ground is always the biggest PITA IMO. I've done the conversion on a couple banshees as well. I like to use the regulator/rectifier from street bike wiring harnesses. They handle the heat/abuse better than any of the banshee ones I've found online.

Every now and then you can score the powerjets off egay. i know dave moore makes a very nice powerjet. They are a little pricy, but work extremely well.

You could use a propane torch and heat the piston up lightly, then try and remove it. You could also put some penetrating oil on the wrist-pin and let it sit over night & try again. If its seized in there, I would replace the top end. If you have to, cut the piston off from around the wristpin. Just make sure you support the rod while you're working on it.

Do a little research. There a LOT of information here on HQ on how to do a plug chop. Its how you confirm your jetting.

Yet another fail.

Definitely ditch the ricky stator junk. I'd pick up a GOOD stock unit, and cut off & replace the spark plug caps. Check your coil connections and make sure everything is grounded good. You should also check your flywheel pickup coil gap and make sure its set right. You won't be disappointed with the porting. Kevin does awesome work! Once you're sure you have good electrical on the bike, then do a plug chop and start checking your jetting. The drag port will use bigger jets.

Check your stator side crank seal. If the little spring gets loose or comes off it will do stuff like you're describing. I'd do like daj suggested and do a leak-down test. You can also spray carb cleaner around the crank seal, and gasket surfaces and head while its idling... if the engine bogs or dies, you have a leak in that area. A leak-down test & check your domes would be where I would start. Also clean your carbs. If you have a jet getting plugged up it can lean you out a little up on top and cause detonation. - Jared

Are you running cast pistons or forged? The wear marks you see can be caused by a few things... Improper chamfer on the ports, not letting the engine reach operating temp before you take off and start beating on it. The pistons expand at a different rate than the stock iron sleeves. The piston will absorb heat faster than cylinder and it will expand faster. If you don't let the entire engine reach temp before you take off the piston can wear on the cylinder walls in odd patterns.

K&T does good work, but be prepared to wait a while to get your stuff back. If someone calls them up wanting a big dollar setup, they just bumped in line ahead of you. If you want fast turnaround and some awesome ported stock cylinders, give kevin at Herr Jugs racing a call. He does some great work and his work is very competitive with other builders in the industry.

I usually put a very very small amount of automotive grease around the lip of both crank seals. I've also installed them without any grease at all, and noticed no difference in the life of the seals or the seal quality. I don't really think it matters from my experiences. Just buy good quality seals.

Dune Trash Racing makes bumpers like that...

Nitrotate here on HQ sells them.

Squish will vary from bike to bike, dome to dome. You will get different opinions from different people on what is optimum. Anywhere from .035" to .055" is pretty normal. I know K&T likes a pretty tight squish.

Another 100+mph tard-fuck.

Your first mistake was going with trinity. If they won't refund you or send you a good set of pipes, get in touch with a lawyer and they can get things taken care of. Trinities name is already run into the ground everywhere but the stupid magazines they advertise in.