BigRed350x

Next you will want to remove the pistons from the rods. I just use my nifty fix-it-all gerber tool to remove the circlips that hold the wristpin. Here's the circlip Tap out the wristpin with a screwdriver or some other similar instrument. It should come out real easy unless you blew up your top end, then it will be a bitch. Lift the piston up off the wristpin bearing.

Now losen each cylinder one at a time so you can remove the cylinder from around the pistons. Remember to losen in a cris-cross pattern. i like to use a really long extension to get to the ones down by the exhaust. After its lose, gently lift the cylinder off the piston. If its tight on the base gasket, smack it with a rubber mallet a couple times. Do the same to the other cylinder...

I am NOT a professional builder. These images are only to give you an idea of what is involved in a tear down. THIS IS NOT A MANUAL!! GO BUY A DAMN CLYMER IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE!!! I am not responsible for anything you jack up while trying to follow these pictures. I know people are going to bug me about so... I don't clean my engine before i tear it down for this one and simple reason: I have a heated Diesel Blast Bath tank at work. I can get all the dirt inside I want, because I am going to clean all the parts before I put them back together. If you don't have something to wash your parts in, take your bike to the car wash and pressure wash your engine or something before you work on it. I don't care if dirt gets in mine since i am either replacing everything or cleaning it in an automotive parts washer. I am replacing any bearings that do happen to get dirt in them , so don't worry about it. Here are the pictures and instructions.... This first picture is just to show how my frame was made a little stronger up by the bars. This is a really weak point on these frames. Here's the Engine on my nifty home-made bench. lol This is with carbs already off, and most of the fluids drained out. I prefer to work on my engine out of the frame, some of these things are easier to do in frame, but I am a big guy and don't have a high enough lift to have my bike at chest height, so I take the whole thing out right from the start. This is the head, the first thing I take off. Just work backwards from 10 to 1 losening each a little bit at a time until its lose. Here the head is lose and I'm taking it off. Looking down at the cylinders / pistons Remove your head gasket Next, i take off what's left of the intakes... Losen those 4 allen head bolts on each side and pull it all off. Next get that stupid hose out of the way.

OK, i got hung up tonight because my shop light burned out and i didn't have enough light that I wanted to keep going so i stopped. I am putting together a page with LOTS of images showing what to do up to this point. I will continue with pictures and descriptions each time i work on it. As long as work doesn't kick my ass this week I should get it split by sunday or so. I will continue to post pictures as i get the pages put together. Look for a post in the mods and repairs section here in about an hour... - Jared oh yeah, a 4mm is just a drop in and reassemble. The pictures of when I put it back together will be really clean.

I can do that. I will have to start where I am at right here. Pulling the engine out of the frame. I will do step by step pics of engine tear-down for you. - Jared

Sounds like a shovanistic pig. What ever happened to The Code of Chivalry and the Rules of Courtly Love? I know I was taught to respect women. I can't believe that crap that guy had in there.

Well I got home from work early. I am going to split the cases tonight. So far I have all the plastics off, gas tank, clutch cable off, engine mounts off, carbs off, drained coolant, just have to finish letting the oil drain out and I will pull the engine and put her up on the work bench and start tearing it down. I am taking pics all along the way and will post them up here whenever I stop tonight. I should have everthing disasembled tonight and probably drop in the 4mm stroker crank tomarrow some time and put it back together if I find nothing wrong inside.

Here's what I got in the game room. It's a mess because we have a game night once a week and a bunch of guys from work come over and get their asses handed to them in halo. 60" sony Halo on HDTV fucking rocks! Sorry about the blur, had the camera on delay and I guess it didn't auto focus.

BigLobsterF'nRed

Do it right or not at all.

I almost prefer stock in some situations. They take a beating. I've had the .190's they they seem to fold under when I smash into stuff out on the ranch. I've got a rim i will have to take a picture of for all of you next time i go home. I took a stock rim and slid sideways into a rock under some snow one year and folded the bead all the way into the center of the rim and the tire stayed on and i rode home on it. lol I had some .190's and did the same sort of thing going up a rutted hill in some trees and that rim cracked down the center and got bent all to hell with about half the impact I had from the rock incident.

There's nothing there dude or I could help you out. No Pics.

Mine adjust the camber down at the wheel end of the arms. Losen two nuts and put it where you want, then tighten them up.

I think we should band together and get our girlfriends to do the same thing mike did.

I sell porn.

Here's a beer for you! Happy Birthday!

"and not make no problems" wow do a search real fast and you can answer your own question.

If you want to wheelie like crazy go smaller in front and bigger in the rear. This will give you the feeling of more power and make wheelies easier. I can do a wheelie through 3rd gear pretty easy with 13x40. With 13x43 it is a LOT easier.

It will be all black. Or if its an 06, there is a really nice looking white one. I'm pretty sure the all black ones are the special edition ones.

If my shee is up and running with the new cubs i will meet you guys for sure. Just let me know what day you are going a little in advance so i can take the time off from work if I need to. Can't wait to meet up down at Walden this year. Going to kick major ass

Actually they work quite well. The 250 has had them since they made them. I think if they didn't work, they wouldn't use them. Duh! Now if you are asking if they will work ON A BANSHEE.... I really have no idea.

Maybe you sucked water (melted snow) into that side. Put new plugs in and run it then chop to see if you are lean or not. Double check compression, clean your carbs, try switching everything from left to right and see if the problem follows. Carbs, Boots, Reeds, plug wires, etc. If you have a banshee friend borrow some of their parts and see if it still does it. Pretty much what everyone is saying. I would lean more towards the lean condition myself. I ride in a lot of snow and have problems like that from time to time when I get reall rough in the snow. Usually its water in my gas or some stupid simple thing like that.

I remember with my 87 when I had the cases split i could not get it to shift for the life of me. I smashed on the lever with a sledge hammer and it wouldn't budge. Everything measured up to spec, and I had new forks and the bars they ride on. I got all made and said screw it and put it back together and it shifted fine once i had the cases bolted back together. No idea what it was. Worked fine for about a year after that before I sold it. Maybe they just need to be suspended in the oil to work good. Banshee Trans are just stiff to begin with though. The shift star mod helps a lot with that. The RZ transmission is supposed to be a little more smooth, you might consider that. They have a little different ratios too, some people like them more. I've never ridden one though, so I can't really tell you about them.

I'm only going to be running a +4 with 4mm cub. Thinking 22" 9 paddle for sand and 22" Razr's for dirt. I like to wheelie, so if it does like to pull the front end up that doesn't bother me. i don't drag race much at all so I don't really worry about it too much.

Just hack all those fenders off. Problem solved.