sheefreak

pics to [email protected] please.

Thats nice, let us know how it holds up. I know a lot of people who have a hard time w/most breaking.

Its all decent, any thing in a sheet is easiest.

I haven't gotten any replies from you guys, I am interested in seeing what ya have.

If Jeff doesn't take em, they are mine. Let me know.

Jeff I have looked at everything, so PM me w/whatch can do. I'll take a price w/carrier, and w/o. Stan, shoot me some pics and a price, I am not above haveing it chromed if the price is right. Wallace, thanks for the heads up, but my builder has recommended at least a 6 if not an 8(He He). 4 won't cut it. Keep em coming guys, at this point 9603 has my business!

I have had a crank seal go bad berfore, but it was because I had a screw come loose in there and tear up the oil seal. Sorry to inform you but It can't be anything else besides your cases leaking. Either way you are going to have to split the cases, your top end is probably still just fine. May want to take a compression reading just to verify. If you can hold your hand like you said, a foot away, rev it, and be covered w/oil, it is definatlely tranny fluid. If you've never split the cases before, it will be a good learning experience for you. I prefer the factory manuals to the clymers. They are real expensive from yamaha, but Rocky mountain sells them cheap. Good luck!

Need a +6, prefer chrome. Need to use linkage.

Have been running Klotz supertechniplate for 2 yrs now. Smell awesome, but I have had problems w/the rings gumming up. I am thinking of switching, I have been told golden spectro is a great oil, but also heard the same about it.

If you go w/Toomey, go w/the T-5. Can't say about the Pro Circuits, never ran any.

I have a 250R that the girlfriend rides once a year, so yeah, the banshee is slowly making it's way to drag only.

Patriot Raceing is doing a stock cylinder drag port setup for me now, I was pointed in their direction because their porting is a little smoother as far as drag from bottom to top than a lot of peoples drag ports, but as stated before, you are not going to be able have the best of both worlds. What I am building is a bike that will run strong w/a lot of bikes, but also still duneable. But it will not be the best duner, and it won't be the fastest bike on the strip. Some other names I haven't heard that build good stuff are Grand River Racing, and Tyson racing(to throw out a little Michigan love).

Only $40 for a RS adjustable mounting plate, might as well spend the extra $20 for insurance, and you may want to go more down the road. PM FASTOYS, I'm sure he'll be happy to send you one.

Is it more prevelent on one side?

I have seen a failing stator like that, which (we are guessing) in turn also fried the coil. Once we replaced these items, we were good to go. If you are sure you have good compression, and you are definately getting fuel, you probably want to start looking in this direction.

I know it sounds crazy, but make sure packing in the silencers haven't come loose and clog it up, I have seen it happen.

It does not dismiss the posibility of low compression, as a matter of fact it is a good indicator that your compression is low. It is also possible if you have cleaned your carbs lately or rejetted that you put the float bowls on the wrong carbs and that would make the choke not operate properly, meaning in cold weather especially, you would have to kick it 100 times to generate any heat to get any compression. I would check those couple things first.

I have seen many dyno sheets comparing Fatty's, and T-5's, and there is nothing wrong w/the Fattys. Make about the same power, and the power curve is actually a hair smoother. But I do love the way the T-5's sound.

Hehe!

If you want to stay w/ pump gas at sea level, better stay at 21cc or above. If you buy from dlnoss he will let you know exactly what you need.

Sounds like a good bike for you then. Like I said, I would give Sparks a call.

Your rings and pistons expand considerably especially when running a weisco as compared to a stocker or cast piston. Your reading will be higher when warm.

If anyone can get that thing to run, it would be Sparks Racing. They were messing w/the Warriors when they came out. But I hope you don't expect an old 2 valve design to be a screamer or anything.

Dude, about the only way you could run under 70 horse w/a cub setup is if you ran stock exhaust, and stock carbs w/airbox lid closed down.

Do you still have this, and can I run a stock inner hub?