sheefreak

My bad, read it wrong.

You can buy right through direct drive just as cheap as anywhere else, unless you find one used of course. http://www.directdrivecnc.net/

Doug, spend $50 bones and get you the cascade clamps. They work well, and look good. You can get them a lot of places. I happened to get mine from Jeff at F.A.S.T.

It's not in the overflow. I bet if you put a temp gauge on both hoses to and from the motor, they wouldn't read but a couple of degrees different.

I would start w/wherever you got the big bore kit.

I am not sure why you are not hooking w/a stock length swinger. The problem w/going w/more paddle w/55 horse is you are going to trade traction for top end.

Dennis Packard will of course use the Lectron, it is his carb. A+S, RDZ, K+T, are all good routes. Stay away from Trinity if you want to go real fast. They are about quanity these days!

The dyna will not retard the timing as much as the stock cdi once you get in the R's, so w/15 cc domes and diluting your race fuel, you will be playing w/fire if you don't back it down to zero. That is unless you are at a high elevation. Not sure what it is in the Montreal area. What is your elevation? You may be playing w/fire as it is mixing your fuel like that. If you start rattling plugs loose, you know you are not good.

Sorry if I am blind, but what length swingarm? I run a full drag port(between 80 - 85 horse), 6 in swinger, and 22X11X8 9 paddle haulers buffed bead to bead(b2b). I hook hard, I am skyward every launch, can usually catch third before front wheels touch.

I love how you Miami Fans hate Ohio State over one game, and the "we all know Miami should've won" shit is priceless. Anyway, GOOOOOOO BUCKS!!!!!!

Good luch w/that. :happy:

Not to be a dick, but is that a serious question?

I'll trade crank for crank plus $550. :happy:

Agreed, sounds like a basket case. Now if he wants to sell it as is for $3-400, snatch it up!

I know, just wondering if you had seen it? I am sure I will meet you next season as I am there every holiday and quite a few weekends throughout the year. The fact that my bike is bright red w/F.A.S.T. on the silencers makes me hard to miss for any of the HQ guys. As you stated, it did not come easy for him as he had the best of everything into that bike. Here, check it out. http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf.../0/fpart/1/vc/1

When you say you didn't take your bowls off before you cleaned them, what does that mean? Did you just spray the outside of the carb down, maybe inside the venturi as well?

I know what you are saying on the sled motors Dave, but have you ever seen the arctic cat run up at Silver Lake? That bike is amazing. He has time slips in the 3.6's, he's not a small guy, no wheelie bar, no power adders. I believe he chimes in at 860cc. Bike could have recently been had for $8500. I wanted to cry sitting here w/empty pockets. And I forgot to mention, it is a twin!

Good luck.

I 3rd that! :cool:

If you want to buy from Patriot Racing, the fastest way to get ahold of him is go to www.planetsand.com. PM Backcountry. He always answers those faster than his voice mail messages. And Dan builds a mean motor!!!! Whoever you end up going w/will be able to tell you all about the short rod/long rod differences. Motor has more potential to rev up quicker w/the short rod, more reliable w/the long.

Check your squish on both cyls to see if they are way off.

I would say no. As Odaen explained, as I have heard many times that cubs like a big carb. A 35 will work w/the cub, w/a 33 you are really going to be restricting that motor. Either go w/the 35, as it will be pretty good for both, or follow Odaen's suggestion.

"charging" the cylinder w/fuel before you click the kill switch to on is all good and dandy, but there is still a problem. Most people I have ever seen take a carb apart don't pay enough attention to the pilot jet. You must blow some compressed are through the jet to get it clean. Spraying it w/carb cleaner will not do the trick. Once your pilot is clean, and you are sure you have good compression, then it is time to concentrate on the choke ckt. I have said this a million times on here, but a LOT of people put the carb bowls back on the wrong carbs. By just looking at them it appears there is no difference, but there is. Your choke setting will not work properly this way. It will not pull the extra fuel charge need through the crossover tube, therefore making it very hard to start. And as a bunch of you have stated, it will run and start perfect when warm. Again, a motor w/low compression on the border line of needing a rebuild will act this same way. But if you are sure the compression is good and are scratching your head, this is usually the problem. There are a couple ways to check your float bowls to make sure they are on the correct carb. Easiest is look on the inside of the bowls on the bottom, they should be labeled 1-1 and 1-2. 1-1 goes on the choke lever carb(or left carb) 1-2 goes on the other. If they are not numbered, or you just feel like proving to yourself that the two float bowls are actually different do this: Get yourself some carb cleaner w/a tube so the spray is in a stream. Look at the float bowls. There is a hole that the choke tube goes into(choke tube only comes down on the left carb). What happens when you pull your choke lever is it opens up a passageway for extra fuel to be pulled into the carbs. For the right side carb, it scavenges fuel from the other carb(reason for the crossover tube). If the wrong float bowl is on the left side carb this passage is blocked and cannot pull extra fuel into the other carb. Therefore, take your carb cleaner and spray it in this opening in the float bowl(watch your eyes), if it sprays back at you, you have the wrong float bowl. If it is the correct bowl, the carb cleaner will discharge from another hole in the bottom of the float bowl. I am at work and this is kind of hard to explain. If it is not clicking, let me know and I will try and explain it a little better.

The 34, and 35's will work w/your motor and be great for top end but at the expense of throttle response. I would say some 30's would be just about perfect for your setup. But since you are going to be upgrading I think I would go w/the 35's.

I would think 240 or 250 would be a good starting point. The fact that you are at .5 turns out on your airscrews indicates you need to go up on pilot size.