sheefreak

"You have to compliment the package... " Absolutely......If you are on a budget, this may not be the way to go for you. But if you are on a budget, why go 4-mill? I run a 4-mill stock cyl and believe me, there is enough power to have to "compliment the package"

I had the same problem w/my fatty's. The 260 is actually too lean. FMF has always been wrong on this and have never changed it. I used to run 320's w/pods and Fattys, everything else stock. When I first bought the bike it had 200's in it w/the fatty's and actually ran pretty good until you got in the higher gears, just would not pull 5th or 6th. Found that the jetting was still stock and went w/FMF's advice on their website and installed 260's. Ran way worse than the 200's( I can't really explain why it ran worse getting closer to correct). Finally threw in some 330's and ran like a raped ape, but could tell by the plugs I was rich. If you are going to run the lid, definately take off the snorkel as Brad mentioned. But try some 300's or so to start, you will see a huge difference. I would personally run w/the lid off, but need to have the pro-design filter adapter to do so. If you do, start at 320's or 330's for the colder weather. This is also assuming you are somewhere close to sea-level.

Right on time Victor. Dajogejr has a 4-mill 68 bore cub and 4-mill crank for sale. No bs w/Dave, pretty good buy for $1000.

Here we go.... http://www.3wheelerworld.com/tiger500.shtml This was a death machine!

I'll see if I can find it. Saw it in dirt wheels a few years ago in the readers rides. If I remember right it wasn't one of the big Manufacturers.

Jeff, ask him if they had the 500cc 2-stroke 3 wheeler that was made for a short period of time. I can't remember who manufactured it.

I personally run just the Pancake bearing and have not had any problems. Some run both for insurance, but I can't really comment on just running the ceramic ball. Hopefully someone who has will chime in.

Not a black frame, but I vote red.

Can't go wrong w/K+T, but I am w/Loco on this one. I don't think I could buy some used ported jugs off some schmo on ebay and feel all warm and fuzzy about it. Dude has 13 transactions, need bored, not shit for details......

Sounds to me like a bad head gasket leak. Usually when you have a right side crank seal leak it will spew oil out the right pipe, It will not be describable as almost transparent, it will be dark. If you have a crank seal leak on the left side, it will such air and lean out. That plug would look ashy, possibly have metal specs all over it depending on how bad the air leak is and how long you ran it that way. I would also, as mentioned above, do a compression test. It may show an obvious problem in which case you will have to tear it down anyway. If your compression test looks good, I would tear the head off and take a look at the gasket. You will need to replace it, so have a spare(unless you run a cool head or O-ringd stock head). If you have the means, a leakdown test would also be a good idea, and would indicate if you have a bum seal or air leak of any sort.

Lot of variables there. Are the pipes newly installed? What are you running for jetting? Do you want to run 93, or are you willing to pay the money to run race fuel? You don't have to advance the timing, but will perform better if you do.

Should be ok. If you hear pinging or start "rattling" plugs loose, you have problems.

I would not buy the kit from E-bay. For one, Jeff will sell you one for cheaper than it would cost you to send that crank to him to have him weld it and put TZ bearing on drive side. For two, I would not run a spacer plate especially if you are going to port for a 4-mill anyway, you already have a coolhead, just have him cut you domes for it. I bet for buying it all from Jeff, and the money you will save from the extra work you NEED done on the crank, it will cost about the same price and you will be much happier!

Go Bucks!!!!! Look out Florida.

Dunes, dunes, dunes, drag, drag, drag......not a bad TTer either.

I would also say richen it up some more. You are looking at a big temp difference.

That is probably what they are refering to. There is also a ceramic ball available to replace the steel one.

I think you are a little overpaddled. If your jetting is right on, and motor good and healthy, you may need to go up a tooth or two in the rear. Dropping one in the front is about equivalent to going up 3 in the rear. If you bump your compression a bit and add a little timing, your bottom end will greatly improve.

I agree w/changing his mixture, but what do you mean by lean?

You can still have a good reliable bike far from stock if taken care of correctly.

Give a practice run or two, see if you can leave in second. If you can, the race will be over from the start. If you dump it in 1st on pavement, you may end up on your back.

I think the pic is right in front of your face.

Can't get the power out of a Boondockers you can out of a wet system. They are for your weekend warriors or maybe better described as "tinkerer".

I run a 4-mill, stock cyl, drag ported banshee and it would take one hell of a Raptor to beat me. I know there are some out there, but he better be completely set up for drag.

Lifted... you have the wrong guy, he is not the poster. Maniac, hopefully your plugs don't come loose oftem from"just not being tightened" or you will end up in the same situation as 909.