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blowit

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Everything posted by blowit

  1. OH, ie, input is 9-50V? GD, now if they just had internal rectifiers. Not too many uses for that though. NASA don't know what AC is.... Brandon
  2. There really is not a bearing that can "come out" in the topend. Can you be more specific. Was the engine supposedly fresh?
  3. Why would they need PWM control circuits?
  4. Guys, this is merely an idea or concept at this point. Obviously, no one wants to watch 12 hrs of porting. It will also prove very difficult to bring a camera right into where I am porting. We have a laporoscope here but no way to stream digital video with it. That is more or less what I would need. I just see a bunch of questions about porting and see a lot of clean up stuff that can be taken to a whole new level with the right info. The main target of discussion is how technical do we get or do we dumb it down a lot so it makes more sense for people that don't dream about engines. Price point will also need to be discussed. Obviously the more time and detail we put into it, the more it would cost us. I could certainly publish a PDF document a whole lot cheaper than a fancy video. I also have no idea where I will find the time to do this. Brandon
  5. It is always best to verify true TDC with an indicator. A twisted crank can get things all screwed up. Seen that a few times actually. One cyl is spot on, the other is 10 degrees off. B
  6. Now this would really piss off the shop because we have enough to do BUT, for those guys who insisted on "rolling their own", I had considered doing a video or tech article on how to port the Banshee for woods, dune, and drag racing. I may also include stroker setups in another segment. To be honest, we would have to charge for the vid mostly because of the time involved and the tricks that will be given. I am just curious if anyone would be interested? This will probably not be the cheapest thing on the market like the two stroke tuning books out there but by running through a video tutorial on the exact bike you are working on, you can truly go from classroom to porting bench in one night. Brandon
  7. What is the lumens per watt with LED Snop???
  8. update???
  9. Just to reiterate, you will need to put an indicator in the plug hole to properly find TDC. It works really nice if you have an advance/retard wheel on your light. If not, you can either guess or use the trusty calculator to determine the arc length at the diameter of the flywheel. Hopefully you have a good light and things will be easier if you hate math. On another note, this may sound ass-ish but with all the time spent trying to find your issue, you may be time and money ahead to take the bike to a pro and get it dialed in. many pros can simply start the bike and get a feel for what is going on. Hell, post a vid with sound and we might be able to get a feel for the problem that way. You are not running into the rev limiter on the clutch lever now are you????? If you still have your E-brake, adjust it tighter on the bar and see what happens. At the dealer years ago, we would have at least one a week show up with this problem. GD Yamaha. B
  10. I agree! I really cannot tell by the statements if this is an idle circuit issue or a main circuit issue but by the last post made, I too think we need to get the bottom end corrected first. We would not change the until the bike is ported. They run much more crisp on the bottom with the 25 pilot. However, with the air screw all the way out on a 27.5, they seem to be very close and this situation sounds like the bike is just DOA. Something does not sound right. Slides, ignition, air screw settings, etc. B
  11. That should not be an issue then. Let me know if the rest of the stuff I asked. B
  12. Can you answer my questions regarding your setup? One other thing that can cause this is reed failure. Basically, if the reeds do not shut properly, air is shoved back into the carb and pulled back into the engine in the next stroke causing a "double dip" effect of fueling the air charge in the carb. This will cause an excessively rich condition. Brandon
  13. You may be fighting an ignition problem that you are masking with lean jetting. You really should be in the 270-290 range but that does not mean you have to go there. Try gapping your plugs down to .020" and see what it does. Also take a look at timing and your pulser coil gap under the stator cover. Just sounds wrong. Now when you jetted you DID put the washers back under the mains, right? That brass washer will screw you all up. Slides in right? Can be installed backwards or I guess swapped L to R and that will really cause a shitty running bike. Brandon
  14. I am just referring to bringing his PM ("personal" message) into the forum. It was obvious his intent was to keep the comment more personal. I am not going to comment on the dyno sheet. B
  15. Seems a little rude if you ask me Snop What is a dyno sheet going to ultimately prove in this sword fight anyway? B
  16. I understand what he is saying but some other things must be considered. Over rev can be designed into an engine to effectively rev past peak power without falling flat. It is very common for closed course race bikes because there are times when grabbing another gear is not advantageous. Over rev is not super important (IMO) for drag racing since one can tune and re gear to stay in the sweet spot. MAX RPM - mechanical limit or usable???? Mechanical - somewhere around 20K RPM. The longer the stroke and less the rod length, the less the mechanical limit. Usable - depending on setup but most bikes will not exceed 11K at peak power with decent over rev of 12K. Most dyno operators shut the dyno down after power starts falling off. An inertial dyno will show over rev but it gets hard on a brake dyno. There are ways to design in over rev. Most of the time it is using an exhaust that is tuned for higher rpm operation than the engine. This seems to flatten the peak power band and the pipe helps the engine along once max designed engine rpm is reached. Brandon
  17. http://turbo1racing.com/pistons.html Here is some DIRT cheap forged pistons. Doubt I would take a gamble with these since the seller indicates they are "high in SILICONE :yelrotflmao: to make the piston less brittle". Then goes on to bring in a quote about Wiseco pistons which has no relevance to his pistons. Someone needs to pull out the metallurgy book again..... B
  18. Re: pistons, WSM makes a decent cast piston. You will find cast pistons to be cheaper but will still hold up fine in stock and ported engines. Many here do not like them but many times, cast pistons are installed wrong and get a bad wrap. OEM pistons are cast as well. Wiseco are forged pistons and though they are more ductile than cast pistons, they do not last as long due to the lower silica content and require more clearance. If you are near stock, I would try some cast pistons. Remember that piston/wall clearance is different on forged and cast. Brandon
  19. Well yeah, that is how they operate. They create several false accounts or steal someone else's. They will create a small amount of nontracable feedback. Even the feedback guys are not legit. I already sent this guy an ear full about how he needs to find the highest cliff or roof top and jump off head first and do the world a favor. You guys should too! Load this POS up with more crap. Brandon
  20. Here is the reply I got today from this super tool. SCAM. If anyone is in doubt, I would like to put a wager on it!!! Say $10K cash!! Just once, I want to get a hold of one of these scam artists in person. God probably knows it would not be worth my time in the slammer over it.... I am Ben Lezama, the seller of the Yahama YFZ listed on ebay. The quad is in perfect condition both mechanically and cosmetically. It has only 11 miles. The title is clear (no liens) and I have all the service records and paperwork. The vin# is JY43GG0316C069734. The price is only $3,000, including delivery and transaction fees. The atv is located at Sebring, FL shipping center. It can be delivered, viewed and inspected as soon as the transaction with ebay is set up. I prefer arranging this deal through ebay so we both can be insured and protected. Please let me know your full name, shipping address and email address so I can contact them, set up the transaction and complete the deal asap. If you have more questions or concerns please let me know. Thanks. Brandon
  21. Let's see here. 1 on feedback, ridiculous price, prompting for email contact, etc. SCAM. Just ask for a pic of the VIN so you can have it checked for authenticity. Better yet, I will. B
  22. Try losing the front sprocket on an R1 at 120MPH on the highway! I too thought the trans went AWOL but just did not make sense. I am just glad I got the bike shut down before it tried to lock the rear tire. I now install C clips on most anything. They resist vibration well and come of real easy.
  23. I can go along with the reducing fouling from the reduced electrode diameter but I am having a hard time with the power improvement. The over all theory is smaller electrode, less voltage required to jump the gap and an increase in arc time. However, we have been able to duplicate the results with more voltage from the ignition. Timing will be affected either way and it is similar to increasing the spark advance slightly. maybe this is where they get the optimized 5-7% increase. on an OE motor with OE timing, it may show as such but we have not been able to prove drastic gains with performance plugs in high tune drag engines. We do use them though on certain applications where ignition power is very limited. Generally they show the most improvement on the bottom end where ignition voltage on a constant loss ignition performs poorly. Brandon
  24. Shift shaft claw jumped off shift star. Put back on. B
  25. Loosy Lucy. Build it back, keep it tight, no problems. B
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