blowit

Tabs or flats on chassis and engine should be bared. Yeah. Some bikes have an external ground strap from engine to chassis to ensure good grounding. B

Ign coil mounted to frame, engine to chassis, I am probably missing one more. Not much to it.

I think the OP has been lost in this deal but the silver box is the voltage regulator associated with the lights and if it does not ground to chassis correctly, you will burn out all your lights because it will not shunt or restrict the voltage to 14.5V.

Did you paint your frame or engine? Ground between chassis and motor are VERY important. I really doubt you have a component failure and the ignition coils as I have always preached, are VERY durable and rarely fail even though people replace them like candy when they do not have fire. Check grounds carefully, I am somewhat confident it is ground related. Something grounded that should not be or should and is not. B

What he is getting at is the Banshee piston over sizes only go to 66.00mm meaning you do not have a 383 unless you have big bore sleeves or a stroked motor. B

Not sure what else to say other than you might have some voodoo cloud over your house where the laws of physics do not apply. :biggrin: Take them elsewhere or round up other meters to try or send them to me to be tested. Brandon

What blend and what CR? I am afraid taking the CR higher than a stock YFZ will be asking for a bent rod if not worse. Nitro reacts much different than other fuels. Just an example is how well water compresses in a combustion chamber. Brandon

http://www.bestofferbuy.com/Digital-Multim..._campaign=gbase Maybe something like this? I am not sure I would put much faith in that meter. IMO, at least get a decent Crapsman meter with auto ranging and true RMS. If you have someone else that will test these coils, that would be best. So did you remove the "wires" from the "coil". They unclip and come off the coil entirely. This will allow you to test the coil separate from the wires.

does it reach up that high? I know my Fluke 336 only goes to like 5000 ohms. I would surely test with another meter. What meter did you buy? Can you offer a model? Did you remove the plug wires from the coil and test just the coil?

Find another meter. If the coils work yet test bad, that should say something about the test method. Might visit a competent electronics guy to have them tested with high quality equipment to compare to your tests. B

That is virtually a guarantee! 1/4mi race should be easy for the Banshee! Not sure if that is fair though. A hill climb would be an easy win for the LT.

Does Dr Phil have a forum somewhere?? Sorry but women at that age are a little off. 25 seems to be where they start understanding that life does not revolve around them. Ride it out till then or go shop some older ash.

The LT motor was built with a counter balancer shaft in the motor. The CR was not. ie, more vibes from the CR motor. They can violently break motor mounts, frames, etc. The LT is no caddy though. Tool some serious dampening to get it to calm down in the quad frame. B

Counter balancer. Been on a TRX/CR500 and my teeth hurt after. Might be able to get creative with the motor balancing though since that motor is a better setup than the LT. Right now I am running a Laeger TRX with a 450BB power valve cylinder on it on alky. GOOD TIMES! Love it.

Turn one tee shirt. I own 5 of them! Our slogan in the shop is "justification for modification and a higher education". Anyway. Been building motors for 15yrs. owned a nasty "Honzilla" (TRX250R/LT500 motor) at about .120" bigbore, would beat any 350 ported Banshee and would leave all stroker banshees on the line but would get caught at the big end by the big motor banshees. The LT500, built right, will own a 350 Banshee but reliability of them is not so good. The '87 cylinders were better (bigger). Brandon

Clymer manual was wrote wrong and not sure if it was ever fixed. Secondary is from plug wire to plug wire, not plug wire to chassis ground. Always put your meter leads together before testing a circuit and compensate if meter does not zero out. You can also remove the spark plug leads from the coil as ALMOST ALL problems related to Banshee coil problems stem from that termination or the plug wires/caps. Read the coil itself is RARELY bad. You can trim a portion of the coil wire off and reterminate at the coil. Please PM for more info if you need it. Brandon

You can certainly resurface the cylinders. I would recommend either modifying the domes for extra clearance from the surfacing or find a thin base gasket to add under the cylinders to compensate for it. ie, find a .010" base gasket and remove .010" from the deck. Could also go back to an OE style head and that will likely fix your problems. Brandon

Remove foot shift lever from shaft. Push shaft through case, left to right. B

LOL. Trying to finish up some patent stuff right now so I cannot let the cat out of the bag just yet. Should solve some common problems though. We also have another machine in the shop that we will have to learn so that could put us behind a bit. Billet Chromoly shift stars are done though... Actually already ran out of them due to a waiting list but we will cut more of those hopefully the end of next week. Brandon

Thank you. I drew the line years ago when I took a head to machine shop to have it "shaved" and it looked like lunch meat that was cut with a claw hammer. We have us some new hotness that should be coming out in the next month. Stay tuned.... B

Sequential transmissions require rotations as well as a small load to get them to shift properly. They do not have synchros like a conventional manual trans so they must be spinning to shift. Bench shifting will never tell the true story and will bind between gears, etc, but perform fine when run in the bike. When bench testing a trans you need to be spinning the input shaft when you shift and if it binds in a gear, you apply opposite torsion force to the input and output shafts to free it. As long as it shifts into all gears and neutral, that is all you can really tell on the bench. Brandon

Here is one of our heads. We have been doing head mods for 10 yrs. Will admit that we are running behind this time of year though. Brandon

I am not quite sure how the addition of a hall sensor would do anything mounted up in the harness. There just is not enough power in the system to start fattening the arc time or applying multi-spark technology. I am a little curious just what the hell it is to be honest. Brandon

Very likely to be a capacitor like the Roost Boost. Constant loss ignitions (no battery, no charging) are well known for having weaker spark so the added capacitance in the circuit will help concentrate the voltage spike to the ignition coil. Because an ignition coil is an isolation transformer, an increase in the primary voltage will also increase the secondary spark voltage. The only issue with adding capacitance is it will change the primary spark timing slightly but should be accounted for. If it is just tied to the the Orange and Black wires, it is likely tied in parallel with the coil. This may also be an "idea" someone had too and may be tied to the stator somehow. A cap can also be used on the lighting system to reduce ripple voltage or that light flicker you get at low rpm. Either way, it can be removed without concern. Brandon

Sequence is embossed into the surface of the head. cannot miss all the numbers on the top.