FireHead

I am considering selling my blue bike, so that I can pursue another interest. There are only 5 track passes on the bike and some dyno hours on the engine. It runs a 3.7'ish w/o any tuning and make 150hp'ish at the PTO. Here are come of the following features: *HS Customs CroMo Frame *10" over Custome Creations swingarm *Metal Tech Drag A-Arms *JJ&A Axle *JJ&A Front Hubs *10mil Big Block Twister Engine w/ custom Twister Carbs and Shearer Custom Pipes made specifically for the engine. *Dyna Ignition w Nology Coil *HS Customs Body Work (no paint on it, just primer) *Custom Wheelie Bar ..............I am sure there is alot more detail that people will want, but you'll have to PM me. I am looking to get $8500 for it. If that works for some one then I will make sure they get a new seat with whatever cover on it they want. Of course everything is negotiable.

Word. :thumbsup:

I heard you had a hybrid Banshee with a 100hp electric motor............ :cool:

BS.............. Mathematically speaking, a 421 cub with air flow increased 50% over the as-cast capability of the cylinder, will not reach mach 1 flow speed through 35mm carburetors, let alone 39mm carbs. If you were effectively able to come up with a way to move the air volume requirted with that setup, then the small bore pipes you are using will become a limitation. If you make more power with that setup with 39mm carbs than with 35mm carbs, then your 35mm carbs/intake are setup incorrectly or you have ported the cylinders for peak air flow at such a high rpm that your torque output is not what it could be (there is no "free lunch," to quote John Judd when it some to horsepower vs. torque with a given engine displacement). Maybe you have a problem with your dyno or dyno techniques? :ermm:

That's not what I have seen on my dyno with in-frame pipes on my 4mil running race fuel. If you are running alcohol, then the larger carbs make sense. Otherwise, they do not................. :geek:

Chris is a great guy. :thumbsup:

I am interested, but I am concerned about the design of the front suspension that is causing all of the positive camber. Can you find out who made the car? :geek:

I've got the cash if you can answer a few questions about it............

God damn Detroit crack heads....... You're lucky they didn't try to steal your shoes. :biggrin:

I am a bit interested. Does this fit in a normal enclosed trailer? What's the deal with the positive camber on the front wheels? Who made the chassis? :geek:

Where is it located?

Are you trying to pass off Chub Chub as mean? :laugh:

The 4 stroke head and engine software from Blair and Associates (David Blair), is pretty well respected, though that is really not a professional version that is at the end of that link.

ypu get in there with a CAM software, an accurate CAD model, and some fancy die and mold tooling. On OEM cylinders, you just need to remove the sleeve, then it's really easy. :biggrin:

It's a 5-axis, but we did have one 6-axis mill of the same type. :geek:

That's what I did with mine before buying metal screws. I don't know why removing the cap is a good idea to do that work.

Is there a little bit bigger one that could hang on the freeway?

Word. I had similar experiences with them when I lived in SoCal.

Twister, Matt Shearer, the guy from GRR, K&T, etc. It will require a phone call or two though.

Some folks make bushings that they put inside the BB pipe flanges so that they can run them on small flange engines. :geek:

Word. :thumbsup:

The carbs due use alot more fuel than an OEM setup, but I would think that the OEM petcock could supply enough fuel for both. Why do you think one carb is not getting fuel?

Billet Bowls for Keihin PWK's http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...1QQcmdZViewItem Intake Manifolds http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...1QQcmdZViewItem

Have you tried routing the branches of the T behind the slide portion of the carb casting on the left carb. Otherwise, buy a Pingel dual feed valve, they make things easier. :biggrin: