FireHead

Beat me to it. :thumbsup:

Just like the title states: Who makes the best hill shooter or hybrid frame. I am pretty sure that I am looking for a fully suspended frame. :thumbsup:

The folks at Mission are good people. :thumbsup: I live right down the road from them and have spent way too much money there. I have not ever had any work done there though. If you are going to make the trip to Mission, you ought to swing by my place and I coulld see if I could give you a hand.

You can download CAD drawing of heims, spherical bearings, and some other stuff from Aurora Bearing's web site. They have 2D and 3D model for free. :thumbsup:

No one around here like motorcycle racing......................?

I have ridden a couple drag bikes with velvet seat covers and let me tell ya, you have to hang on alot tighter to stop from sliding off the back of the bike. :verymad:

That's a good question. You need to pick up a cheapo digital volt / ohm meter from an auto parts store and start checking circuits for continuity. :thumbsup:

Any of you motorcycle fans ever heard of Moto Czysz? This is their web site http://www.motoczysz.com . If you have heard anything about them, what do you think? I don't follow motorcycle racing, or racing at all for that matter, so maybe you guys can teach me something. :thumbsup:

I think that must be an East Coast pavement drag scene thing. I have seen quite a few like that from East Coast. Greanted, I have seen a dirtbike covered like that at Glamis. :shoothead:

I don't beleive that I have ever seen a CV carb on a two stroke engine. :thumbsup:

It should be noted that you won't see a performance gain between any of the plugs assuming all the components are set up properly and are in good condition. :thumbsup:

If you have a Dyna ignition, you also have to run a resistor plug.

Stay the hell away from Alba! If you don't mind a little drive to Anaheim, that's where Trinity is located. Alot of folks will say they are crappy too for one reason or another, but I have always had good luck with them. Granted, I have only dealt with them since I moved to SoCal and it's always been in person. They have also never done any work for me. I have only bought stuff from them. However, I know a few people that have had their bikes worked on there and they have been pretty happy. On the other side of the coin, if you were to buy a guy a beer or two, I might be willing to see if I could help you out. :thumbsup:

My parents picked that weekend to come visit me.................so, I won't be there. :shoothead:

I wonder if the kid thought that actually looked good?

How much are you figuring that your triple is going to cost you? :thumbsup:

BigRed350X has a good chrome guy from what I hear. I think BigReD is actually doing a bit of business with them right now. Maybe you could send it to him to have your stuff thrown in with a batch of his stuff. :thumbsup:

I'd offer the guy $1000. Bikes seem to go for more money out West no matter what shape they are in.

There is another video on Youtube frpm a SoCal TV channel on how the people do the lock bumping thing as well. It seems to be a big deal here in SoCal, but that's probably because people are easy pickin's as the only people who have guns around here are the criminals.

Depending on what's in the matrix he usses, be it Polyester, Vinylester, or epoxy, you can run into thinks the dissolve saran wrap. Besides that, saran wrap leaves a crappy finish and isn't a very professional way of doing things. The plaster is ok to make molds out of for a one time deal, but after all the finish work you have to do to the mold to make it it's always pretty hard to break it up. Besides that you still need to use a release agent in addition to wax inorder to assure you being able to get the part off. :thumbsup:

If I am not mistaken, the tool F.A.S.T. sells is made by Empi. You should be able to snag one from any Volkswagon shop. I think I got mine from Moore up in Anaheim, CA a few years ago.

I saw that on the news last week or so. I live in an upscal apartment complex, that is gated, has onsite security, an alarm that is also attached to my garage, and a Glock 27. If somebody wants to steal something around here, they need to work pretty hard at it. As always, if someone wants something bad enough, they will get it one way or another. It's pretty hard to stop a crackhead. ::

If any part of the parking brake assembly has been removed there should atleast be som evidence of where the wires used to be. There would have been some wires going to the clutch lever. I would think that you should find where the wires were either cut on the harness or the unplugged connector, if notheing else for the sake of avoiding a problem with a short there in the future. If the wiring for the parking brake is still plugged in or installed funny, the CDI will think the brake is on and prevent it from starting. If it's not that, I would check the run stop switch for proper funtion with a DVOM set to alarm when it sees continuity. I have never had that problem, but it makes sense. I had the light switch wear out though, and they have the smae sort of internal contacts. If it's not that, whip out the electrical diagram and start checking the wires for continuity going to the CDI from their respective sources with the DMOM. :thumbsup:

The link is working now........ It looks like you the exhaust sides of the pistons have gotten pretty hot. Have you cleaned any of those parts up or are they the way they came out of the engine? I would say you have a fuel mixture or fuel delivery issue. :thumbsup:

I think you are asking about what to use as a release agent on the mold..................... First you need to wax the mold with a 100% Carnuba past wax. Composite supply companies sell this, but if you go to the auto parts stores and read the cans, you can find the same thing. You will then need to paint the mold with a release agent, PVA is what is commonly used. You should be able to get that from a composite supply company or possibly a boat shop. Fiberlay is my favorite online composites store. You can either brush or spray it on. Spraying it will leave you with a better finish. You probably need about 5 coats of that down if you are not using a seasoned mold. If you are just trying to use a set of plastic fenders as the mold, yo are going to want try and reinforce the backside of the mold and stiffen it. Otherwise you will either never get the part off the mold, have to cut the part off, the mold, or get really pissed off because it took a long time to get the part off the mold. I would also reccomend making a mold off of the fenders as opposed to using them for a mold. This is alot more work, but it will give you a better finished product. At the very least you ought to make a practice part that is maybe only 1 layer of veil thick (commonly know as a splash) so that you get an idea if your process is good and if everything is going to be kosher inorder to avoid wasting alot of time and material. :thumbsup: