FireHead

I saw these the other day in a magazine. I don't know how much they cost. They are certainly more than $40, but they might be less than IMS pegs. The quality is almost guaranteed to be less. :thumbsup:

I have never seen what you posted before and have seen a ton of what I posted. :biggrin: Either way they are slutty compared to an IMS peg. :thumbsup:

I am going to be purchasing a pair of dual UNI filters some time in the near future. I am interested to see if they have a longer service interval than the K&N's do in the sand. :thumbsup:

I read the original post six times before I posted anything. I suppose I still do not know what he actually meant.

The amount of wires should have never changed. All you need to do ia make your way to the local auto parts store and by a male and femal GM Weatherpak connecter, install one on the CDI pigtail and one on the harness. :thumbsup:

I actually use tears generated by my own self loathing. :shrug:

Make sure it's Type F ATF. There is a big difference between that and the Dexron/Mercon ATF types of fluid. :thumbsup:

http://www.cycletrader.com:80/addetail.html?87980542 Here is the link to the ad. It will also come out in the local Cycle Trader. :thumbsup: I suppose if someone from the HQ wanted it I would let them have it for a bit less than what I am asking.

I saw this and thought of this thread. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-YFZ4...sspagenameZWDVW

I was assuming that the oil he was referring to resembled a 90 weight hypoid gear oil (the stuff that smells really bad and has the consistancy of carmel).

Obviously, the picture I posted is nothing like an IMS foot peg. I was assuming what was meant by the originator of this thread was that for $40 his dad saw something that you could bolt on that had a kick-up like an IMS foot peg. :thumbsup:

I suppose this is what Trick2stroke was talking about. The statements made here really do not lend themselves to any sort of analytical discussion. Past that, if the engine was tuned properly in the first place, changing reeds alon probably will never be a cause for rejetting.

Are we talking about these?

When in doubt, change it out. On the other hand, if the parts look to be in good shape and measure out to be in tolerance via whats printed in a Clymer manual, then you should run them. I might soak them in some clean oil before you install them though. :thumbsup:

I agree. I have seen many a man lose his ass in that sort of situation. :thumbsup:

AC used to have alot of wuality control issues. Their new stuff seems to be alot better. Maybe you got some parts that had been on the shelf for awhile. That withstanding, nothing that I have ever bought from AC or DG has fit properly. AC has pretty good customer sevice these days, I would fire them off an email and see if they will make things right with you. As an aside, from what I have read, Blingstar is the latest and greatest member to join the club of manufacturers that sell non-fitting fabricated aluminum parts for ATV's.

The only way i could ever see longevity being effected is if you hack away at the cases to the point of compromising their structural integrity.

BigRed350X posted a thread awhile ago that had several pictures and an explanation of case porting. Maybe you could search and find it. :thumbsup:

I sent you a PM regarding Vegas this weekend. It's probably best that you replace the bolts that hold the rotors on anyway. From my expreience they tend to stretch and deform a bit under normal use. The upper a-arm bolt ought to be easy. The spindle being stuck on the hub was the hard part. :thumbsup:

IMO what you hear about Alba is correct. They make/sell a good product, but there customer service completely ruins a person's satisfaction with their products.

People like ojcool, his buddy with the SRT Neon, and Helldiver are a dime a dozen. I just don't understand how someone can ever be sucessful at anything with the type of attitude that they display. :shrug:

I just sorted my schedule out for the rest of this week. I have to go to Vegas for the weekend starting tomorrow AM. If you want to fix your frame this weekend, you'll have to come to the track. I can make it worth your while as I just emailed my secretary to a get a blank guest spot added to BDR's credential list. It's no big deal what you do either way. Just shoot me a PM one way or another. If we can't solve your problems this weekend, then I will definitely be in town next weekend. :thumbsup: As an aside, I would be willing to bet that we could get a picture of us taken with a majority of the drivers lined up on pit row. If that isn't that interesting enough we could get a picture with Dr, Toyota as he will be there this weekend. He really likes me for some reason (I think he thinks I look like Larry the Cable Guy).

I had to get back to this one time before I'm done: FYI: In the UK the term hatch is used to describe a cross dressing prostitute. I had bneen waiting to post something about that since I first saw that in this thread. :yelrotflmao:

In the spirit of keeping it real: really isn't much of a differenc between a RAD valve and a VF3. It mostly about what you think is sexier. If you really want to hack at the issue, both cage design have slightly different opening and closing profiles. As far as people losing a moter because of their cage choice, I think that is all b.s. Assuming everything was properly installed a reed cage has about as much of a chance as one of those Scary Fast Power Now valves does.

I may enjoy seeing a picture of that as well. A different seat is on my list of things to put off doing to my red bike. :biggrin: